black00chev

iTrader: (2)

Street tires and 20s will probably give you a hard time but ask Foose04 how his truck ran on 20s. In any case, at 12psi you should be somewhere between 500-550hp and I think at that level you shouldnt have a problem getting low 12s. Just a matter of hooking up and getting a good 60' time.

mitchellmade

iTrader: (13)

not sure if I'm gonna run a 4 l 80 e or turbo 400 or if it's going to push button 4 wheel drive

03RCSB

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I've been told already to ditch the 20s before I put new rubber on them but so far at 7psi, the sticky rubber and the assassin bars keep me hooking all day. Hope with the 80e, some prep and luck I can handle 12 at the track, anyone's guess though. I'm trying to find a stopping point where enough is enough, no more mods, its not easy ha.

Well let me know if you decide to build one, I got through mine without any of the special tools. I've also got a manual and the service stand I built that you can borrow if needed.

LS1FREEK

iTrader: (1)

Love this build!!

black00chev

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt get rid of them all together, but if you want to make the most out of your track experience an extra set of 18s or smaller with some sticky tires will help.

And I know what you mean about where to stop. I havent even started my turbo stuff yet and want to get a turbo cam, LS9 gaskets, head studs and turn it up to 12-14psi, maybe 16. But at those levels Ill for sure have to do the 80e swap and Im trying to avoid that since I dont want to go all out with my black truck. Thats what the s10 will be for!

03RCSB

iTrader: (2)

Been a little while and finally got the 80e swap all buttoned up and went for a test ride today. I'm using the 60e tune with the single relay mod to delete TCC PWM.

The good news, it moves
The bad news, have quite a few problems

- On the first start up, I let the trans warm up and cycled it through all the gears on the shift lever. Rolled it to the back of the driveway in reverse and then up to the house in drive, everything seemed fine.

- Got out into the street and eased down the road, shifted 1-2-3 but then no 4th. Check the areoforce and it still shows 3 as if the computer isnt commanding 4th.

- Slow down to turn off the road and the truck doesnt downshift from 3rd, again, aeroforce just reads 3 for current gear, doesnt show that the computer is commanding and the trans just wont. Downshift never happens despite throttle position or speed.

- I can shift it from d or 3 to 2 and it will downshift into 2.

- On first startup, the trucks current gear will say 1st on the aeroforce, it will remain in 1st untill I pull the lever all the way down into 1, then the aeroforce shows 2. I heard that 2nd gear is the default "something is wrong" gear for the 80e.

- Truck is throwing two transmission related codes, P0785 - Shift/Timing Solenoid and P1860 - TCC PWM solenoid. The second one i'm sure should just be turned off in the tune as the whole purpose of the single relay mod is to delete TCC PWM but not sure why the P0785 is showing up.

I grabbed a quick log to send off to justin as I do not want to drive the truck like this. It seems tune related but i'm sure I might have missed something. Hopefully I can get this fixed before the 4th as I was hoping to take the truck to Carlisle. We will see.

EDIT:

After a quick search it looks like the trans is in limp mode. No first or 4th, only 2-3, letting the truck sit off for a while fixes the problem

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

You need to switch a wire around in the connector, and use a relay to switch the 2-3 solenoid. You dont need a relay to delete the pwm, simply not using a relay to hook it up is sufficient.

Beatdown Z

iTrader: (18)

I just ran a 12.4 at 115 mph with a setup very similar to yours, on 11 psi. RCSB, 2wd, small cam 5.3, 70mm turbo, 80E, 20's with shitty tires. My 60' was 2.2, lol.

03RCSB

iTrader: (2)

Ah yeah thats what I meant. I used the first diagram from post 63 in the below thread to wire it up.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...-486918/page7/

I dont see it mentioned on this board but found it on two other boards that people are putting a 100 ohm resistor between the removed pin s wire (3-2 shift solenoid) and 12v so that codes are not thrown. Anyone here have to do this?

Nice I'd be happy with that, with a quicker 60ft if I could squeek into the 11s would be even better

03RCSB

iTrader: (2)

FIXED!

Just needed to have three codes shut off. A big storm just came through so the road is soaked and I wasnt able to open it up, launch or any of that fun stuff but went for a little cruise and so far so good.

Just riding around the temps stayed between 160 and 170 but got stuck in traffic and it crept up to 195 and stayed there. The cooler is kinda buried back there, thinking of throwing a small fan on it with a thermostat to keep it a little cooler. Glad to see it doesn't hit 200 in 2 minutes though like the 60e did.

Gonna do some logging this weekend and send it back out to justin as well as a 100 mile trip just to make sure it will last for the long haul. Maybe get some new pics vids.

EDIT;

Roads were dry so I took some highway runs and laid into the truck a bit. First gear is definitely a little slower but pulls to 60+MPH. Like everyone else says, 2nd gear is just insane, nothing like cruising along at 75mph and dropping down into 2nd and full boost when floored. Shifts are firm, clean and don't bog the truck down like the sloppy 60e. Very impressed with the 80e so far and the peace of mind that it should hold for quite a bit more HP than I am currently making is the icing on the cake.