Dang... lots of changes to the truck in the last 3 years. 4L80 cracked around the bell at pump mating surface so I had to get a junkyard replacement to rebuild, all new RideTech suspension and most exciting to me new paint! I have added a bunch of pics to my albums on here but will throw up a few in here.

Slight color change on the paint with no more two-tone. New color is Lemans Blue from the C6 Z06.






Couple action shots from LS Fest back in September...

 

For the suspension changes... I have been getting more interested in AutoX and Road Course racing in the last few years so I have been trying to get it to handle a little better. Ridetech HQ coilovers wtih swivel ball top mounts and 900# springs were the first change made a few years ago. The stock LCA shock mount was reinforced for the coilovers and poly bushings installed in uppers and lowers. The truck still had a lot of dive and front roll so an Addco 1.5" swaybar was added then eventually 1200# 8" springs replaced the 900# 10" springs. This felt good on the street but still felt soft on course event with the shocks on full firm. Truck still pushed bad anywhere in the corner if tryed to take at speed. Trying to rear steer was very unpredictable with the flipped leaves, HQ single adjustables and Hotchkis swaybar. Came across a deal on a used Ridetech 3-Link wishbone system so decided to pull the trigger to see how it would do.

Ridetech 3-Link Wishbone installation pics...










4" exhaust still fits...


Had to modify the wishbone differential bracket and the girdle for proper fitment...


I have plans on transfering weight to the rear so why I originally chose 300# springs but after using the using the setup at a couple events and driving on the street, found the 300# springs were too stiff and prevented needed weight transfer to the rear so were changed out to 225# which work much better with the current weight distribution....

 

The 3-link solved some issues but created others. Did some testing with and without the rear swaybar and determined it is not needed with the 3link. 300# springs with the sway bar prevented any weight transfer and the rear would step out easily with throttle input in corners. Removing the sway bar, rear traction seemed to be better but also introduced a little more front end push in entry. Trying to throttle steer seemed a little better but still easily reached a tipping point that it stepped out badly. Enter front suspension changes with a full set of Ridetech StrongArms. Plans were to pair them with a matching set of Viking Crusaders to replace the HQ singles but didn't make it here in time for LS Fest so the HQs were sent back to Ridetech for a rework with a 2" eyelet top mount to replace the swivelball stud mount.







After install, camber is close to maxed out getting -0.8* each side so there is definately some geometry changes as previous settings were -2.1-2.3* and cams were not maxed. The motion ratio is the biggest change with the strong arms. I was expecting the 1200# springs to be too stiff after the change but they seem just right now. Once I go to the Vikings with stiffer valving, I may try the 900# again.

 

Unfortunately all the suspension changes didn't help me at LS Fest as I had one of the worst showings I have had in a while. #1 I need new tires. The worn set of 295/45/18 NT05s are not cutting it. They push bad and do not put any power to the ground so I can't even use the horsepower advantage in the straights to crutch the slow corners. 2nd, I have to relearn how to drive the truck. It does handle differently now so once I get some new tires, I have to get some seat time to get to a competitive pace.

 

Nice truck, question have you put it on the scales yet to see how nose heavy you are? I am guessing with the turbo,intercooler, etc you would need close to 500lb shifted to the rear.

 

I had it scaled at an event a few years ago prior to all the suspension work. I would wager the balance is off a little from that now. Put the truck on the track scales at Beech Bend last year (after rear suspension change and full exhaust) and the truck was 43# heavier than the total below.

W/304lb driver
Total 4717
Front - 2882 - 61.10%
Rear - 1835 - 38.90%
LF/RR 48.80% RF/LR 51.10%

My ultimate plan with a fuel cell moved to spare tire location, battery moved to rear and nixing the supercharger, all a2w intercooler stuff and iron block for a big cube NA aluminum motor and losing about 20lbs myself.
Total 4394
Front - 2471 - 56.24%
Rear - 1923 - 43.76%
LF/RR 49.68% RF/LR 50.32%

More realistic short term with just the fuel cell and battery relocation (rough calculation) which helps front/rear ratio and corner balance but the main benefit will be getting more weight on the rear axle for traction. Getting that little bit of weight off the front may help corner push at speed too.
Total 4718
Front - 2784 - 59.01%
Rear - 1934 - 40.99%
LF/RR 49.53% RF/LR 50.47%

I will likely get it scaled again after the next few changes and to a dial the coil overs in on weight rather than height.

 

Damn it looks good. Those Eagle 219 wheels are still the best looking 6 bolt wheel in my opinion.

 

Thanks, I love the 219s as well so I hate to get rid of them. Unfortunately there are no good 200tw sizes to fit a 18x9.5. I had considered having one set rehooped to a 10.5 to run a 295/40/18 but having trouble finding someone in the southeast to do it. I bought a new set of 20x11 for cheaper than I can ship 4 wheels to CA, have them rehooped and shipped back. I also needed a 20 to gain some clearance back on the new LCA. I will probably keep the 'street' set with drag radials on the rear and only use the 20s at driving events.

 

Are your upper arms flipped? If so, purpose? I assume better alignment specs?

The color change and solid color turned out nice!

 

No, uca is not flipped, Ridetech just put the stickers on upside down. That threw me off when I was initially installing the ball joints and had to take a second look at the instructions to confirm.
I did do some testing previously with the stock uca and flipping them. The total angle was better with them flipped but better matched the lower in the stock orientation so that is the way I ran them for the past few years. The Ridetech arms have the balljoint angles corrected on both upper and lower control arms.