I wouldn't say "no issues" with the 11's. Lost about a 1/3 turn each direction due to clearance issue with the LCA up front. Could actually go wider in the rear though. I would say the rear is very close to what it was with the flipped leaves so ~6.5" lower than stock.

 

Sorry, I meant no issues in the back. 20x11 up front is awesome. Not a chance in hell would I have the ***** to do that lol

 

A couple weekends ago finally got the hydroboost pulled off and the vacuum booster back on. While doing that, I did a full ps fluid flush and replaced the stock steel ps cooler with an aluminum tube&fin piece with -6AN fittings. The rack and pump reservoir ends did not get converted though. The Summit Push-Loc hose seems to seal pretty well on the stock barb ends in those locations.

Old fluid was NASTY! Somewhat confirms my speculation of boiling the fluid on course.


New cooler vs stock cooler. The brackets are very rudimentary made from aluminum bar stock but fits well and is secure.


New cooler in place. If there are still issues with this setup, there is room for a larger bar/plate cooler.


Seems to work fine with street driving but so did the previous setup so will have to wait for the next AutoX to test it out. As for the brakes, the pedal feels better with the vac booster but is still a little light at the top of the pedal. I am starting to think that is due to the volume of the GMT400 front calipers out back. Since I have not been to a drag strip in about 2 years, I may get rid of the 15s and go back to factory rear brakes with the 2pot SUV calipers.

 

I did have an issue testing after the ps and brake work. After a 120mph pull, I started hearing what sounded like something stuck in the tire and intermittently slapping the wheel well. When I got home, popped the hood to find this...


This was a fairly new "AC Delco" belt that had Gates branding on it. All pullies were verified in alignment with a laser tool. Not sure if I just didn't get it belt on square and it was riding one rib off or what. The SC and alternator were one rib off in addition to the missing ribs on the back.




This belt was replaced after breaking a belt on course at LS Fest back in September pegging the rev limiter at the end of a straight. I bought a new tensioner as well but didn't change it out so decided to go ahead and do that with a new belt. The new belt and tensioner are Gates brand.

 

I'm too lazy to go back and read. Did you resolve your IAT issues? I'd love to see some auto x video of your truck if you have any.

 

Nope. Still the same hot air pump as it was. Next time I pull the compressor off for whatever, I may make some changes with the IC brick. Although I love the power the pd setup makes, I have aspirations of a big cube aluminum NA motor for weight bias. I cant fully utilize the power it makes now on an AutoX course. However, If I get into road course or time trial events, the power would be a benefit, but the IAT issues may become an issue in that environment.

A buddy shared some runs from the truck shootout with me on Google Photos. I'll try to get the transferred over to youtube so I can share them here.

 

which pump are you running? I'm wondering if the Rule 2000 bilge pump I'm running isn't up to the job under acceleration. my temps recover quickly as soon as I'm out of the throttle.

 

SC coolant pump is a Pierburg CWA50 off a BMW which flows just a tick more than the Varimax pump. I have thought about running two of them in series to increase the flow.

IIRC the Rule pumps flow a ton at low pressure but as pressure increases flow drops off dramatically. Are you running 3/4" or 1" lines?

 

Going off memory i used 3/4 -12 AN and welded in -12AN bungs to the intercooler blocks. I considered going 1" but didnt see the point if the heat exchanger and intercooler neck down to smaller sizes. Once I get the car going again i plan to reverse the flow of my cooling system from the pump>intercooler>exchanger>overflow to see if it makes a difference. It is currently set up as pump>exchanger>intercooler>overflow. I plumbed it to push water from the bottom of the exchanger to the top thinking it could push air pockets up and out of the system. now I realize I just introduced backpressure to the system. My exchanger is a frozen boost type 101 so it holds quite a bit of water.

 

I have had two good events this year to test the upgrades in warmer weather to see how the suspension and tires work with some heat in them. For the most part everything is working great (except the driver, lol) but there are still some improvements to be made. The removal of hydroboost and the ps cooler upgrade solved the ps whine and res overflow issue. When the tires have some heat in them, they stick very well. I have been trying to learn how different shock settings affect how the truck reacts to different inputs and track conditions. For example, on high speed decel, it felt as if the rear wanted to come around so I added a good bit of rebound to the rear shocks and it pretty solved the issue along with helping the rear grip on corners and in breaking.

There is still an issue with the front end pushing under certain conditions but I feel that more camber and caster in the front alignment could help with that. Unfortunately the current UCAs are at their max adjustment for negative camber and positive caster. The right side seems to be the issue so I ground the slot on the rear to get a little more adjustment but didn't give much.



Rear right cam maxed out after slot grind (blue mark is pre alignment, red mark is post)...


Left rear moved out to match right caster camber (blue mark is maxed out pre alignment)...


I need to either modify the uca for more adjustment or go with a different arm all together as I would like to get -2 degrees camber and 8-9 degrees caster. I was talking with Olof from Ardent Fab at LSFestTX a couple weekends ago and may be going with his arms.