I can't fabricate?
#173
Hunt&Fisherator
iTrader: (15)
In all seriousness... To maintain braking, improve braking, and save weight, why not go to some nicer calipers and rotors up front and consider driveline braking for the rear one rotor and caliper stops both wheels... Less weight, more efficient, more mechanical advantage etc..
Nevermind, don't, this will cause you to try and build something else... And spend more than $100... My best advice, keep the stock ****, put fresh pads and rotors all the way around and move on to finishing this throttle body of yours.. I'm getting bored making fun of your front brake delete project.
Nevermind, don't, this will cause you to try and build something else... And spend more than $100... My best advice, keep the stock ****, put fresh pads and rotors all the way around and move on to finishing this throttle body of yours.. I'm getting bored making fun of your front brake delete project.
#174
In all seriousness... To maintain braking, improve braking, and save weight, why not go to some nicer calipers and rotors up front and consider driveline braking for the rear one rotor and caliper stops both wheels... Less weight, more efficient, more mechanical advantage etc..
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#175
Hunt&Fisherator
iTrader: (15)
Just my opinion.... Rriiiiigghttt... I've gotta go to bed, I'm going to be hungover enough as it is, and they let me work on peoples vehicles for a living so I probably should sleep this off hahaha...
I did read about your lighter calipers as a back-up plan or something, but all I could keep reading over and over was about a truck with no front brakes..
I did read about your lighter calipers as a back-up plan or something, but all I could keep reading over and over was about a truck with no front brakes..
#177
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ravenna, MI
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In all seriousness... To maintain braking, improve braking, and save weight, why not go to some nicer calipers and rotors up front and consider driveline braking for the rear one rotor and caliper stops both wheels... Less weight, more efficient, more mechanical advantage etc..
I've always been told it was a bad idea for anything other than a mud or trail truck. If you have 4.10 gears a rotor on the pinion will be spinning 4.1 times faster than if it were at the wheel.
#179
Hunt&Fisherator
iTrader: (15)
It's mainly used on vehicles with a lot of rotational mass. So you're correct but I could see the advantages for someone wanting to save weight on a street truck... Would it really be worth it?? Probably not, I was mainly throwing info around to be a little helpful I guess... I know I've stepped on the guy's tiny feelings this evening a little... I know on a friends truck I've driven with a BBC, rockwells, 52" tires, some ungodly gear and a lot of power it stops that thing like right now :now: But I know that's apples/oranges to what were discussing here.
#180
This is kind of difficult to do on assumptions. I think the proper thing to do is find the coefficient of friction friction for the surface you will be on (race track) first. You can then calculate the distance it will take your truck to stop from 100 to 0mph given its mass and % of braking applied. On normal conditions this is used by giving the vehicle 100% braking but in this case it is kind of difficult to determine what the % would be. I would imagine the number is pretty low.