Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

WOW!! That didn't take long!! I wanna see some vids of the "somewhere between holy **** and oh my god "
I'm telling you that cam is a f'ing beast if given a chance!!

sharpshooter

iTrader: (10)

did the conveter bolts actually back out and hit the engine or did the heads hit and pull them out of the converter?

stock flex plate bolts that go into the crank have a short head and the 80e bolts are longer than the 60e's

can these be used as the tc bolts or I might not be understanding what happened?

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Its hard to tell...I was using 2 arp bolts and one stock bolt. The threads on the ARP bolts are fine, but the threads on the stock bolt are smashed up, so im not sure if they backed out or were pulled out. Which is why im hoping the threads on the converter are fine...

I am using an 60e type flexplate because PI can make their converters fit the 80e but have the 60e mounting patern, which makes it easier to fit without the spacer and everything else.

Beatdown Z

iTrader: (18)

Lock-tight them and just use a little plumber's propane torch to heat them up when you have to remove them.

It's bolts like those that I'd rather have a hard time removing, than have them loosen while in service. I have those ARP converter bolts in my truck and I'm not a fan of how short they are...

charcold-bowtie

iTrader: (10)

Ive been using lock tighted ARP with no problem. Sure you have the right lock tight?


I ran my wastegate the other day unreferenced, and that bastard still only made around 4 psi. I guess the spring is just that soft on my JGS

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

I am going to use a tiny dab of blue, couldnt find any purple. Good news I guess, I bought some 20mm bolts (stock are 15mm) and they seem to fit much better. Two of the three converter threads are fine, but the other one I cant get the bolt started, so I am hoping to find a thread tap or chaser tomorrow to clean it up some and get that last bolt in. I started it with the two bolts backed it up about 10ft no problem, so if I am lucky everything is alright...

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Hopefully you can get the tap started in the hole atleast a little bit, I find in tight spots a small crescent wrench and a steady hand works the best instead of a T handle.

1Bear

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully it didn’t crack the rear engine cover from contact with the bolts. That and hopefully running a tap through the bolt hole will clean it up where you won’t have any issues. Due to the style hole that’s in the torque converter, you will want to find a thread chaser or bottoming tap, as a regular tap will not be able to run through far enough to straighten out the threads. I wish you the best of luck.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Do you know how deep the holes are in the torque converter? Think a 25mm bolt would be too deep? It didnt hit the rear cover, but did hit the back of the oil pan on a little rib, but didnt crack the main part, lucked out on that.

1Bear

iTrader: (1)

With my PI converter and TCI flexplate, I needed 18mm long bolts to get full thread engagement without bottoming out the bolts. Whereas the ARP bolts I purchased (part # 230-7305) were basically only 15mm long. 3mm doesn’t sound like much, but is about 2 whole threads worth on something that already doesn’t have a super amount of thread engagement. With the 18mm long bolts, it left me with about 1 to 1 & ½ threads in the converter before bottoming out the bolts.