Project "Blown HD" my 6/8 drop/shortblock/heads/cam/blower/tranny install
10-11-2007, 05:26 PM
#1992
need a sanity check on the trans cooling lines routing.....
front port on trans....to
bottom radiator inlet port....to
internal radiator cooler....to
upper radiator oulet....to
transmission cooler inlet (pass side)....to
transmission cooler outlet (drivers side)....to
rear port on trans
is this correct?
front port on trans....to
bottom radiator inlet port....to
internal radiator cooler....to
upper radiator oulet....to
transmission cooler inlet (pass side)....to
transmission cooler outlet (drivers side)....to
rear port on trans
is this correct?
10-11-2007, 06:31 PM
#1993
need a sanity check on the trans cooling lines routing.....
front port on trans....to
bottom radiator inlet port....to
internal radiator cooler....to
upper radiator oulet....to
transmission cooler inlet (pass side)....to
transmission cooler outlet (drivers side)....to
rear port on trans
is this correct?
front port on trans....to
bottom radiator inlet port....to
internal radiator cooler....to
upper radiator oulet....to
transmission cooler inlet (pass side)....to
transmission cooler outlet (drivers side)....to
rear port on trans
is this correct?
appears to be correct yes
10-11-2007, 07:17 PM
#1995
as long as the above routing is correct adding the larger tranny cooler turned out MUCH better than I expected.
Didn't need any aftermarket lines, just 2 inverted flare to -6AN adapters, 2 -6AN tubing nuts/collars, and one 90deg -6AN fitting. Made two bends with a handheld bender (one 25deg inlet side, one 90deg outlet side); next cut off the factory ends; then flared them to 37deg, done, call it good. Turned out super clean and here's what I did:
view from the front:
inlet:
outlet:
side view of hard line routing(clean):
Didn't need any aftermarket lines, just 2 inverted flare to -6AN adapters, 2 -6AN tubing nuts/collars, and one 90deg -6AN fitting. Made two bends with a handheld bender (one 25deg inlet side, one 90deg outlet side); next cut off the factory ends; then flared them to 37deg, done, call it good. Turned out super clean and here's what I did:
view from the front:
inlet:
outlet:
side view of hard line routing(clean):
Last edited by moregrip; 10-11-2007 at 07:26 PM.
10-11-2007, 08:57 PM
#1997
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Everything's looking good, Grippy!!! Don't mean to be a dick, but remember this: If you go to the local hose suplier (like Parker Store or any hydraulic supply), they may sell you a -6 fitting, but they usually deal in JIC, not AN stuff. I found out the hard way. JIC wil work on AN stuff, and vice versa, but they will leak. And you'll break a fitting trying to get it tight enough to stop leaking. I'm sure you've already addressed this, but I thought I'd throw it out there, anyway. Best of luck to ya, bro!!!
10-11-2007, 09:18 PM
#1998
Everything's looking good, Grippy!!! Don't mean to be a dick, but remember this: If you go to the local hose suplier (like Parker Store or any hydraulic supply), they may sell you a -6 fitting, but they usually deal in JIC, not AN stuff. I found out the hard way. JIC wil work on AN stuff, and vice versa, but they will leak. And you'll break a fitting trying to get it tight enough to stop leaking. I'm sure you've already addressed this, but I thought I'd throw it out there, anyway. Best of luck to ya, bro!!!
10-11-2007, 10:50 PM
#2000
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It goes on the back of one of the cylinder heads (driver's side?). I suppose it helps rout the wiring and brake booster hose. The dowell fits into one of the accessorie bolt holes and the bracket is held by the one bolt. I don't belive it has any other purpose and may not be necessary for your build.
Of course it may be a part that is only needed for installation by the factory. I don't think you'll miss it if you leave it off.
Richard
Of course it may be a part that is only needed for installation by the factory. I don't think you'll miss it if you leave it off.
Richard