03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Good God man, you need to finish this build. Haha.
For those of you who are reading the whole thread, Good luck, and we will hear from you in a year or so when you are done. I have had the luxury of reading along as it progresses.






Sorry there Chief L. had to harass you a bit, its been awhile.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

hahaha! no trouble at all....on many levels I deserve the hard time brother!

Like I was saying, a few times I almost gave up but just couldn't bring myself to do it. To much time and effort to let it go (maybe a curse, who knows) I have enough parts in the garage to keep me busy for a while but the single biggest visual impact is going be this drop, then maybe some color matching, and lastly some good old fashioned beat downs on this rig!! (dragstrip or wherever!)

Bimmer Tech

iTrader: (1)

Pictures by ctraenkner - Photobucket

Try this one.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

That link works brother! I did not order the shocks through DJM and had planned on using different shocks all together. What part numbers did you use for the Doestch shocks?

What install tips do you have for me, if any? I did not order the DJM cross-member but it sounds like I may need to put a call in for that.....especially after seeing those pics of yours.

How did/does the truck handle after it was all installed?

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

love this picture of your rig brother
are those the stock 245/75R-16's?

Bimmer Tech

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! Yep, stock tires. I was going to go with 20 or 22" wheels, but I ended up selling the truck unfortunately. Install was pretty straight forward. In the front, I unloaded the keys, replaced the uppers and then the lowers. You may need a large drift and BFH to get the torsion bar out of the front LCA. I had to beat mine out from the torsion key. Then test fit the torsion bar into the DJM LCAs first in case you need to sand them to fit. I used a jack under the hub to support the spindle while doing the lowers. I also had to drill out the shock holes in the LCA, they were just a touch too small. For the back, I removed the bed. I used a template to figure out where to cut and drill. I tried a few cutting tools, but a sawsall worked the best, just went through about four blades. Drilling the holes was a PITA, just took time and alot of different bit sizes. You will need to loosen the straps for the fuel tank (I had to at least) so you may want as close to an empty tank as possible. I don't have the P/N for the shocks, all I did was measure static shock length, compressed and extended lengths (I kinda estimated) and then called Doetsch Tech up and ordered over the phone. I also had to cut off the exhaust after the muffler, it wouldn't fit over the axle anymore. It can be done, just not in the stock configuration. I think that's about it. I bought helper bags for the rear. Anything over 1000 lbs in the bed started to bottom out the frame against the axle. I never got around to installing them though. If you think you need them, let me know, i'll let them go for real cheap. I also have a torsion bar tool if you need one. After it was all installed with the lowering torsion key and leaf removed, only the caster wouldn't come into spec. It drove some much better than stock, especially at higher speeds. On sharp turns though, You'll be able to tell that the SAI is off, one front tire will fell like its dragging. I hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else. Your truck is gonna look sweet lowered!

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

Rgr, copy all.

That was basically my plan for ordering shocks as well. First get the thing sitting where I want it, then take some measurements, then order shocks.

Excellent tips on installing the front A-Arms! thank you!

Great alignment info as well.

For the rear suspension I am currently running a 1500 series rear leaf pack and plan to continue to use them but with the overload removed (so it will end up being a 2 leaf pack). I think helper air bags inflated to 5-10psi would add a degree of stability to this setup and is something I have been seriously considering. thoughts?? send me a PM with that screamin deal brother!! woot!

good info on the rear C-Notch, I will follow your guidance!

Sounds like you were fairly happy with the ride quality of the HD after it was lowered! The only thing I'm not quite certain on is, were you ever able to get all the vibration out of the drive-line, and if so, how?

Thanks again for your help!

Bimmer Tech

iTrader: (1)

Also, on the notch, the crease in the notch lines up with the crease in the frame and just about butts up against the weld line. Pretty simple. I was not able to get *all* of the vibrations out of the driveline. I tried to shim the trans mount, adjust the axle angle and raise the carrier bearing, but to no avail. It was alot better when I was done, but still had a vibration during take off. I would have taken it to a driveline shop as a last resort since setting up the angles on a two-piece driveshaft is a little tricky. For more stability, I tried to find a rear sway bar that would work, possibly one that would go between the bed and frame, but never got around to that either. I'll dig out the airbag kit tomorrow. I forget what is required for it. Do you have rear drums or discs?

Edit: the airbag kit is a Airlift 59209 kit. It supposed to fit a 1500 lowered 4-6 inches, so I was hoping the additional frame height on a HD would make up the difference. Google it and let me know what you think.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

that's pretty-much what I've read on the driveline angles.....and that's definitely something I'll need to figure out. What do you think the main issue was? Carrier bearing not high enough? Transmission needed to be higher and adjust angles from there? Based on total drop of HD kit and height of the HD's frame rails it looks like that airlift kit has a good shot of working. I have rear disc brakes. I'm also considering a rear sway bar and possibly even a panhard bar to keep the rear end located.

Bimmer Tech

iTrader: (1)

I think it was a combination of rear pinion angle too low and carrier bearing not high enough. I have some aluminum bar that I was going to experiment with for the transmission mount laying around somewhere as well. The airbag kit shouldn't have a problem working as long as you have enough clearance between your tires and frame. I think 5 inches is needed. Here's the included directions: http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst.../022-59209.pdf Some fabbing/cutting will be required with this kit. I dug up what I have, I have the airbag kit #59209, a torsion bar tool, and some aluminum bar for spacers if needed. What would you like? With either a sway or panhard bar, some fabrication is going to be needed. I explored both and there are several kits out there for trucks, but mostly the lifted ones. Check your PMs. Just remember that I'm eastern time please.