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Somewhat agree with Atomic here. If you want to move the filter out of the way that is fine, but the best thing to do you be to put the largest filter you can find and just bolt it straight on the turbo. Any piping, regardless of size, will almost always hurt you......damn the heat.
Procharger puts the inlet of the blowers on these trucks directly over the header on the driver side. Time an time again I've seen people route the filter out of the way to avoid the header heat.......then the ones who listen, put the filter directly on the blower and in almost every instance pick up power without the elaborate piping to help pull air from a cooler place. At the end of the day, the restriction of the pipe and bends is more hurt full than the heat.
Agreed here as well. I have a large R2C filter (supposed to be a great flowing filter) attached to my Procharger. Filter is over passenger headers. On a 80F day I might see IAT's sitting at idle of 100F. Any IAT rise elsewhere is attributed to the Procharger compressing and heating the intake air.
Also, have read to be careful with those inverted filters that have metal pieces in the cones. Apparently compressor blades don't take kindly to metal trying to make their way through.
are you asking for an idle vid? i was planning on doing one soon in the same place that i have my other idle videos so you are less variables and can really hear the true difference. maybe next week. my starter solenoid finally gave out (i think) yesterday so need to get that replaced. its actually been giving me issues for over a year or so. for a couple of months it would randomly not try to start and would have to key on like 15 times and then it would crank. then for a few months never had the issue. then it came back for a brief moment and then it went for like 6-8 months without issue. then after getting the kit on, it started doing it again and now yesterday was the first time i couldnt get it to fire up at all.
after some driving around the other day i saw a peak boost of 12psi . this is too much boost creep for me and at the moment i do not have enough fuel to handle this . i just ordered another wastegate and going to stick this on the crossover and should be able to keep the boost at the spring rate no problem after getting that in. for now just staying below the threshold of the wastegate opening when driving around. its very obvious because it dumps to atmosphere right next to the front tire so its pretty loud when the gate opens up...
i have been brainstorming how i want to wire up my second pump. im just going to build a second power harness that is triggered by my boost controller to turn on the second pump. i am also going to build a little harness to connect both existing power harnesses to my fuel hat. i have drawn out a diagram of my current setup and another diagram of what i propose to be doing. it was much easier to think about when i drew it out. i think it should be good. the only thing i do not like about the dual setup is my ground wire for my pumps. it is drawn out to be grounded right out of the pump so no quick way to disconnect it here, was going to run the ground back into the original harness but was afraid that would not be large enough wire to ground both pumps. so for now this is what i have planned out..
here is current setup with racetronix harness (single walbro)
here are my plans for adding second harness to power second pump
Pretty much exactly what I did. I have a 10ga ground wire on the frame right outside the tank. I used a male and female spade connector on the ground tires and the power wires to disconnect them.
just thought of better solution for being able to switch pumps if main one fails. this update lets me just switch the connectors instead of having to mess with the wires...
Pretty much exactly what I did. I have a 10ga ground wire on the frame right outside the tank. I used a male and female spade connector on the ground tires and the power wires to disconnect them.
didnt think of that . whenever i think of connecting wires i just think of the delphi connectors and not spade connectors (much more simple for this application). i will probably go with what you did
just put up my updated which splits the fuel level sensor wires and realized after that i dont have a good way of plugging both wires into a single terminal, will probably just splice them somehow in the middle of the harness. not much amperage going through the level sensor wires so should not be a big deal
I used the factory plug for the fuel level sensor, and drilled 3 holes in the hat for my 10ga fuel pump wires (2 power, 1 ground). I spliced them about 2ft ahead of the bucket so its easy to disconnect if I need to pull the bucket out.
Got my boost under control now! added a 2nd wastegate to my crossover. with 7.5psi springs in both wastegates i see a max of 8.0 psi now (instead of 12). much safer now. now just need to finish my fuel pump upgrade and get her retuned. i bet i will see much lower numbers on my 'low boost' 8psi pulls now. i think they were so high because the boost was creeping so much . but now after getting my pumps installed i should be able to do some full 11-12psi pulls and see the 600+ rwhp numbers!
Have quite a bit to update on here but just want to say real quick that i took my truck to the track yesterday and was able to run a best of 11.69 @ 117 weighing 4830lbs (with me) 1.88 60' and was 103-107 degrees outside
when i have some time ill update this thread on things i did to the truck up until yesterday
03-25-2017 | 09:26 AM
