RCSB build
02-21-2012, 12:02 AM
#281
What does the block webbing/main journal parts of the block look like? Blackened or discolored at all? How did it look before the build?
You mentioned that the machine shop found the crank bent, and they straightened it, then polished it, and then said it was okay. Was the crank from this block or a different block? Did they also check the block and align-bore the main journals?
You mentioned that the machine shop found the crank bent, and they straightened it, then polished it, and then said it was okay. Was the crank from this block or a different block? Did they also check the block and align-bore the main journals?
02-21-2012, 01:05 AM
#284
They looked nice and shiny, like the rod bearings currently in the engine. The crank was bent a very small amount, possibly from the factory.
My gut is telling me this whole main bearing deal was caused by polishing the crank down so far. The machinist recommended it so that it could be loosened up and still run standard bearings. Too many people are having success with virgin crankshafts, I probably should have told the machinist not to worry about the crank. The new crank will remain stock.
My gut is telling me this whole main bearing deal was caused by polishing the crank down so far. The machinist recommended it so that it could be loosened up and still run standard bearings. Too many people are having success with virgin crankshafts, I probably should have told the machinist not to worry about the crank. The new crank will remain stock.
02-21-2012, 01:52 PM
#287
Crank spun just fine. Didn't use plastigage...used a dial bore indicator for the bearing bores, micrometer for the crank journals and accounted for the thickness of the bearing. Somewhere in writing all of it down, a radius value was assumed to be a diameter value and ended up being too much clearance.
I am going to put it back together with a new crank, and will be using plastigage to double check clearances. Luckily with some parts discounts and other stuff on hand, it shouldn't be too expensive of a fix. Needless to say, I will get a lot more personal time with the crank this go-round... Live and learn, right?
I am going to put it back together with a new crank, and will be using plastigage to double check clearances. Luckily with some parts discounts and other stuff on hand, it shouldn't be too expensive of a fix. Needless to say, I will get a lot more personal time with the crank this go-round... Live and learn, right?
02-26-2012, 04:56 PM
#289
What did you use to lubricate the cylinder walls when you assembled? I use motor oil, I dip the piston, then drop it in. It takes some time before the oil coming off the rods starts lubricating the cylinder walls. That's what those scratches look like to me.