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Oh, I see. That's for your Impala SS project, right?
Last year I tried my luck with tube welding on this 2014 axle, just to try it. I used the nickel free cast iron welding rods with preheat and postheat and peening. Didn't look too pretty, but at least I didn't get any cracking.
I also regeared it to 4.10s, again to learn to regear since I figured it would be easier that after installed. It wasn't that bad. I was supposed to swap it into my 99, but it hasn't happened.
@strutaeng Correct that’s for the SS, doing a trutrac, 3.73 gears up from 3.08s, Moser axles, TA girdle and a full reseal. Also powder coating.
I was considering welding the tubes but wasn’t sure if it was worth it. Honestly reconsidering now and letting him do it just to prevent seepage… The car is really just a show car not so much a big power car. I’m going to have to pull the engine over the winter possibly to get it resealed as it leaks like a sieve. Don’t know if I really want to do that though. Sounds like an *** load of paint in the assery.
Oh, I see. That's for your Impala SS project, right?
Last year I tried my luck with tube welding on this 2014 axle, just to try it. I used the nickel free cast iron welding rods with preheat and postheat and peening. Didn't look too pretty, but at least I didn't get any cracking.
I also regeared it to 4.10s, again to learn to regear since I figured it would be easier that after installed. It wasn't that bad. I was supposed to swap it into my 99, but it hasn't happened.
Interesting. I know in the Past Ni-Rod has been used. But I have never done Stick.
I have done them with a Tig using 309 Stainless rod. It's a Pain because there is oil and other impurities that make it pop no mater how well you clean or preheat.
This was done by a friend in the past and 309 was used with a Tig... It was Pre heated, but was allowed to cool down on it's own.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 09-18-2023 at 02:58 PM.
@strutaeng Correct that’s for the SS, doing a trutrac, 3.73 gears up from 3.08s, Moser axles, TA girdle and a full reseal. Also powder coating.
I was considering welding the tubes but wasn’t sure if it was worth it. Honestly reconsidering now and letting him do it just to prevent seepage… The car is really just a show car not so much a big power car. I’m going to have to pull the engine over the winter possibly to get it resealed as it leaks like a sieve. Don’t know if I really want to do that though. Sounds like an *** load of paint in the assery.
I have many friends with LT1s, they all leak, no matter what.
@wretched73 That’s probably true. I’m ready to leave behind optispark and 24x swap it. Pretty sure I have a big rear main leak and both the oil pan and timing cover are leaking.
Also RTV to seal the intake manifold is just straight up depressing. Why nobody could think of a better way to do that I will never understand. I just did that job but I have no idea if it is leaking or not lol
I can't stress this enough, don't waste your time. I've helped replace oil pans, rear main seals, timing covers, you name it, and the leaks persist.
Last oil pan was the hail mary to fix the leak, a fancy Stef's oil pan, to the tune of ~$800 and it still weeps. An absolute exercise in futility.
Also, price out a Holley Term X against your 24x solution. I know I've said this to you before but it is leaps and bounds ahead of what you'll get with the torqhead.
Again, 2 LTx friends went from torqhead to term X and they couldn't be more pleased. The third LTx friend, with the Stef's oil pan, is going Dominator.
09-18-2023, 07:13 AM
