Slow and getting slower
07-22-2012, 10:30 PM
#1131
Well, it wont be tonight, I have work early tomorrow and my preperation for taking out the work truck takes a while 
On a seperate note, I feel like im going to have to drop the front axle and rebuild it sometime...it is the original with 250k miles on it. See how everything is wet under there? I think its gear oil...is brownish and doesnt have a smell. So not trans or power steering, and my engine oil is green (brad penn) and its only on the driver side. Are there any upgrades out there for the 8.25" front IFS?
On a seperate note, I feel like im going to have to drop the front axle and rebuild it sometime...it is the original with 250k miles on it. See how everything is wet under there? I think its gear oil...is brownish and doesnt have a smell. So not trans or power steering, and my engine oil is green (brad penn) and its only on the driver side. Are there any upgrades out there for the 8.25" front IFS?
07-23-2012, 11:20 AM
#1136
Read this
The Official GMFS Front IFS Gear Install How-To - Chevy Truck Forum | GMC Truck Forum - GmFullsize.com
The 9.25" swap is anything but straight forward and to my knowledge no one has successfully completed the swap without having to do some major mods.
The Official GMFS Front IFS Gear Install How-To - Chevy Truck Forum | GMC Truck Forum - GmFullsize.com
The 9.25" swap is anything but straight forward and to my knowledge no one has successfully completed the swap without having to do some major mods.
07-23-2012, 07:42 PM
#1137
On The Tree
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Seems to be an easier swap if the truck is lifted. I briefly looked at doing the swap when I grenaded my front diff but decided against it once I found a used half case for $100. I don't think it would be too difficult swapping it aside from shortening the front shaft and modifying a couple brackets though.
08-08-2012, 11:33 PM
#1138
Im not really interested in swapping to the 9.25" front...and not really interested in fixing my leak either after reading that thread
Finished a couple things lately....Reed sent me a 1.25 AR housing to try out which I did tonight and I must say it felt like it really helped on the top end and lag doesn't seem to be affect an appreciable amount, so thats a win.
Also finished moving my battery to the passenger side to make room for a bigger custom meth tank I have in mind...
Should have some goodies by next week and am hoping to go to the track tomorrow, or maybe a different track on saturday night for some heads up street legal action...
Finished a couple things lately....Reed sent me a 1.25 AR housing to try out which I did tonight and I must say it felt like it really helped on the top end and lag doesn't seem to be affect an appreciable amount, so thats a win.
Also finished moving my battery to the passenger side to make room for a bigger custom meth tank I have in mind...
Should have some goodies by next week and am hoping to go to the track tomorrow, or maybe a different track on saturday night for some heads up street legal action...
08-08-2012, 11:42 PM
#1140
I do as well...I left everything else basically. The 0 gauge wire from the positive on the battery goes to the red junction box by the alternator (wire goes under the engine), and I have a 4ga wire from that same stud to the main fuse box. The 0 gauge wire from the negative on the bettery goes to the bolt you can barely see in the front of the passenger side head. I have another 0 gauge from the rear driver side head to the factory ground stud on the firewall, and I have a 4gauge wire from the bracket under the stock battery that is connected to the fuse box hooked on that same stud on the firewall. The only thing I may do later is add a ground directly from the battery to the frame, but I have zero issues how it is so I think it is good enough. I already had all of the wire from previous projects, just needed $5 worth of ring terminals from home depot for the 4ga.