Slow and getting slower
09-12-2011, 08:43 AM
#297
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midland Texas
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ya i expected it to cost more. And yes I mean the oil port. I dont see that being "cleaner" than the other tapped block. But I could maybe see a use if your adding an oil temp sensor.
If you did put a "T" on the that everyone uses, you would have a closer value of what oil temp the turbo is seeing. But I doubt there would be much of a difference.
If you did put a "T" on the that everyone uses, you would have a closer value of what oil temp the turbo is seeing. But I doubt there would be much of a difference.
09-12-2011, 08:20 PM
#298
Correction, the oil pan thing is actually 20mmx1.5 
Well at least its pretty damnit!
I finished putting the axle under truck and getting it bolted up. The spring pins from tuff country were 9/16, while the holes in the spring perch are 1/2. The perch is too close to the axle tube for me to use a step bit so I took off 1/16" of the spring pins. I feel a lot better about using the 3/8" pins than 1/4" bolts...
Also installed new suv calipers and stainless brake lines...although I think I got the left and right backwards. I think I may have welded the flanges too far back on the tube...the outside pad of the caliper rubs the rotor more than I like...I can still turn it by hand though so I am wondering if it wont wear just enough not to contact in normal situations. I made damn sure I had the flanges in the right place before I welded though
Size difference between the single piston truck caliper and dual piston suv caliper
Progress...
Well at least its pretty damnit!
I finished putting the axle under truck and getting it bolted up. The spring pins from tuff country were 9/16, while the holes in the spring perch are 1/2. The perch is too close to the axle tube for me to use a step bit so I took off 1/16" of the spring pins. I feel a lot better about using the 3/8" pins than 1/4" bolts...
Also installed new suv calipers and stainless brake lines...although I think I got the left and right backwards. I think I may have welded the flanges too far back on the tube...the outside pad of the caliper rubs the rotor more than I like...I can still turn it by hand though so I am wondering if it wont wear just enough not to contact in normal situations. I made damn sure I had the flanges in the right place before I welded though
Size difference between the single piston truck caliper and dual piston suv caliper
Progress...
09-13-2011, 06:01 AM
#299
The way to tell if you have the calipers on backwards is the bleeder has to be at the top. Otherwise you will never be able to bleed them fully. If the bleeder is at the highest point you are all set to go.
If just the pad is slightly contacting the rotor it will be pefectly fine. Is there anyway to get a tiny shim to bring the caliper out? If not it won't be the end or the world like i said. The pad will wear a tiny bit and be perfect.
If just the pad is slightly contacting the rotor it will be pefectly fine. Is there anyway to get a tiny shim to bring the caliper out? If not it won't be the end or the world like i said. The pad will wear a tiny bit and be perfect.
09-13-2011, 08:27 AM
#300
The calipers are on the correct sides, but I think I did the lines backwards since one is has basically no slack and the other has a lot of it. The only way to bring the caliper out is to pull everything off including axle shafts and take off the backing plate and use something to space it. These SUV rotors are 10mm wider than the stock ones so clearences are much tighter. I can still turn the rotor by hand, its just not easy.