i feel bad for anybody who would

 

Finally got to mess around with the dyno a little bit. Tuned a gay Honda on it and noticed the torque reading seemed pretty optimistic. The b20v made 178whp, 160tq, in real life that motor should be putting out about 130-135ftlbs if it’s healthy. So I started figuring out ways to mess with the power output, easiest way I’ve found was to use the modifier for “engine torque and engine hp” I can make it a negative number so I played around with it a bit till it seemed closer to reality. Put my Tahoe on there today without the correction modifications and it put down 330whp/375tq, this was right after calibrating the load cell. With them on it made 287/325 which seems allot closer to what a 5.3l with lt headers, intake, exhaust and a tune might make but still probably on the optimistic side.

 

Need to resize that screen

 

I would be playing with that dyno all day if I had one.

 

I’m excited to get to use it more. My free time has been non existent lately. Luckily I was able to make time today to pick up a 5.3l and 4l60 full swap for my 91 s10. Going to most likely do a sloppy stage 2 cam, 07-14 truck manifold, 92mm tb, pac 1218 valve springs and a 3200rpm stall converter in it. Not wanting anything crazy out of the truck but I want a good driver out of it. I think it will make more then enough power for what I want the truck to do and should still have good street manners. I’m in the middle of doing coil overs on the front of it but don’t have a spring compressor and haven’t been able to make it to the parts store to rent one so I just ordered one on eBay, I’ve been meaning to just buy one anyways so when that comes in I can get the Viking coil overs on it and give you guys a little feedback on them. I went with 450lb springs and I hope they work well with the iron block 5.3 that’s going in it.

 

That sounds like a great little truck, you won't be disappointed with the coilovers they kickass.

 

Awesome to hear. Also today I was able to pick up a 2002 5.3l suburban for dirt cheap, higher miles, interior was disgusting but it runs and drives. Biggest issue with it is I believe the front diff is locked up some how, I kind of want to just take the diff out and leave it 2wd as its just going to be a beater work truck for me. If anyone knows what all I’ll need to do to just keep the transfercase in place and remove the diff and axles, I’ve read on some years you need to keep the axle stubs in place to keep the wheel bearings together. I was under it briefly to try to get an idea on how to go about it but It was raining pretty hard and the s10 and the dyno are taking up my garage space right now.

 

The CAD is pretty easy to disassemble and disengage if thats what you think is hanging it up

The autotrac case of that year also has a tendency to have... problems lol. It could be that the t case is engaged as well

I have no answer on the unit bearings, but even if you have to leave the stubs in, just remove the outer boots and pop the axle out the cup. You will need to leave the stub in the t case as well, and same thing: pop the boot and slide the shaft out of the cup

You will need to drop the steering to get the diff out

 

Sorry I’m a newb with 4wd stuff. Is there a write up you could link on how to get the front diff to disengage?


also side note, I got the Viking coil overs on the s10, with them all the way down the truck was about 1” taller lol. I cut a coil out of the springs and now about 1” up it sits and rides pretty nice. Used my old toe plates from my Honda days and measured tow. It’s about 3/4” towed out but I wasn’t able to get the adjusters to budge so I ordered a tie rod adjuster and need to soak them in some pb blaster over the next few days till it comes in.

 

Made a little time to work on the suburban tonight, I feel kinda stupid but also super happy at the same time. The issue was two things, 1, the encoder motor was unplugged, and 2 the 4wd fuse wasn’t in the fuse box. Replaced it and it lit up that it was in 4hi. Shifted it to 2wd and no more clunking noise. Picked this thing up for $850 running and driving with a clean title. Pretty stoked about it. Since all my other stuff is lowered I’m probably going to do a ghetto lift on it and see what I can fit for some bigger tires under it. I’d like some 32-33” on probably 18” wheels just gotta find a deal on some first. Also gonna pull the carpet in the back and somewhat turn the whole back into a truck bed which will be great for Oregon since I gotta haul allot of home improvement stuff in it for fixing up rentals and want to keep stuff dry.