Ya his name is John he ported my LSA and helped him a little on his lightning build. Good guy looks like a quality piece in person.

 

He ported my one blower in 2012

 

I have a buddy with that same blower plate ready to go on his L. We're excited to test it out.

Anyway, it is entirely possible its belt slip, but I am running a 3.4" rip cut pulley with absurd belt wrap. I was running a 2.7 with the 1900 and had no apparent issues.


I just dont see it being the case. There is also very little in the way of signs the belt is slipping as far ad belt wear or belt material around the blower pulley The new intake tube helped me, and I think its far from ideal with such a drastic bend so close to the TB.

 

Some comments on the fuel system. It seems pressure is dropping more than just to 50 despite the fact that the 450 can handle all the power im making when coupled with meth. I think this is a function of the returnless regulator and possible the stock feed line. What's really interesting is I have manipulated the tune a lot with very little change in AFR while it starts to go lean, but I am still not hitting 100% IDC. I assume that means I do in fact have a little more room to grow with the current set up, but there is no doubt an uphrade is in order.

I will likely run a 255 primary as suggested with a 450 on a Hobbs switch. Id like to run the 255 on the factory power wires and the 450 on my hot wire kit. I need to think trough exactly how im going to do that since the Hotwire kit plugs into the factory harness. I don't think it will be that hard, but it's hard for me to come to a difinitive answer without having it right in front of me. Have any of you done this or do most just run 2 hot wire kits?

 

Its just wiring! Power to power, ground to ground....

 

Yea I just can't remember how the hot wire harness screwed with it. I don't think it'll be bad.

 

After hearing that thing idling, Im gonna need some more footage asap. I need motivation to finish my turd haha. She sounds great man.

 

I have thought about using a smaller primary with a larger secondary pump on a hobbs switch before and decided against it due to concerns of the the flow of the larger pump over powering the smaller thus negating the compounding flow of the smaller pump. I would like to hear some more thoughts on this from someone with more knowledge of fluid dynamics.

As to the wiring of the pumps, just unplug the stock feed from the hotwire relay, plug it to the primary pump then run the switched hot from the hobbs to the hotwire relay along with a ground. You will have to add another power connector or bulkhead to the fuel hat for the secondary pump to do it this way.

 

This is how I did mine. Yes, I was bored.

If your controller is ground switched instead of positive switched then just swap the "controller in" from + to - at the battery and have it go to "85" on the relay instead of "86" and have "86" go to ground. I use my boost controller to turn on my second pump and it has the option of ground output or positive output. Same thing if you want the hobbs ground switched instead of positive switched. You can swap around 87-30 and 85-86 from positive to ground any way you like, it does the same thing.

Pump 1 turns on with the key just like the normal fuel pump (and can be controlled through the pcm), pump 2 is activated by a boost controller output or hobbs switch. It helps also if you have a heavy gauge wire from your alternator to your battery, 4ga or better.

 

The flow of the pumps will add together minus some losses due to how they are combined. For example, putting 2 pumps together in a T does not equal twice the output of a single pump with a straight connection.