custm2500

iTrader: (10)

The bars are 33" long. And what the 4 link bars do is eliminate any axle wrap. Any wheel hop you might get with any other set up is eliminated because there is nothing that will flex when you mash the gas. Only problem with parallel 4 links is the 4 bars don't stop side to side movement so you need a pan hard bar to keep the axle centered.

Shortened driveshaft installed and looking good. Got the rough lay out of the fuel line, tomorrow I need to bend it more precise and finish it's path to the tank for the return line.

custm2500

iTrader: (10)

Why does this build scare you?

La Tu Papi

what part of the build doesnt..... instead of sectioning the frame and over lapping the sections you just hacked the rear part of frame off. This now leads to different positions of the bed mounts. Also instead of doing the above and having your C notch from previous in proper place you just noticed frame once again, then you left the previous notched section still there without any reinforcement to it. The wheels are going to be a nightmare to balance and those welds are horrible to say the least. They wouldnt pass a certification, then youre adding side pipes.....Do i need to go further on with this? These are just some of the things that frighten the fajitas out of me

You dont have to agree with me, im not asking for you to agree. I just stated and you asked what frightens me and I replied. Good luck

zeake

iTrader: (5)

Well said in a polite way. + 1

custm2500

iTrader: (10)

The logic that sectioning the frame is better then doing it the way I did makes no sense. This way there is no seams in the frame. Zero alignment issues and anything else that can arise from sectioning the frame.

The wheels balance great. in fact one of the front tires I have on right now I didn't balance for ***** and grins and I have zero vibrations all the way up to 95 ish mph. The one that I did balance if I remember correctly took .75 oz. and .5 oz which is great for any wheel and tire.

The frame behind the axle will be getting replace with lighter steel because all it is doing is supporting the bed. Basically back halfing the truck. Therefore the two notch setup will not exist in the final product.

If you read the an earlier post you will see that the welds on the wheel you see aren't good, but the welds on the inside are much better. I will post some picks of better welds on the truck to calm those fears. Also the rear wheel without a tire balanced at .5 and 1oz which is also great. In case you didn't know people widen wheels all the time. There are thousands of widen wheels on the road every day. So if you think I am doing something no one else has then you are horribly mistaken.

Again I agree we don't have to agree but your none of you concerns have any weight because none of them make sense.

fastlt1

iTrader: (4)

I think it looks great. Keep up the good work. Nice documentation. Nice write up.

custm2500

iTrader: (10)

Thanks. Like any project it has a long way to go but atleast it will be drivable again really soon.

GMracer

iTrader: (12)

Im curious about your rear bags, looks like you placed them on the outside of the frame ontop of the link bars. Is this correct? If so did you place you link bar out more? or is the bag itself offset on the lower link bar?

custm2500

iTrader: (10)

The bag is nearly centered on the bar. I used bag mounts bought from sucidedoors.com. The bars are along the same plane where the leafs where if that helps answer your question.

GMracer

iTrader: (12)

as long as the bag isn't offset you will be fine.