Whistle pig build
#241
I really like this build and it scares the hell of out me too. I've been wanting to at a minimum take the bed off my truck and have the rear frame blasted/cleaned up but then I think to myself how much more would it take to remove the cab and front clip. I'll be stripping alot of the OEM engine wiring out in order to run a Holley as well but want to keep the radio, A/C, cruise, and add power windows/locks all on the factory ECM if I can.
Hell of a job and I may be asking some questions as I like what you've done.
Hell of a job and I may be asking some questions as I like what you've done.
Nice work on the frame and I am jealous of the space you have to work. I do have a few questions though...
What are the particulars on the control arms? The pics look like the lower ball joints are canted to provide a lot of positive caster. What ball joints are to be used with them for the g-body spindles? Could these arms be used with the truck spindles with a different ball joint?
Why did you cut out the middle cross member? Any intentions to reinforce it there? Seems like that would allow for more frame twist. What are the plans for the fuel tank now that cross member is gone?
What are the particulars on the control arms? The pics look like the lower ball joints are canted to provide a lot of positive caster. What ball joints are to be used with them for the g-body spindles? Could these arms be used with the truck spindles with a different ball joint?
Why did you cut out the middle cross member? Any intentions to reinforce it there? Seems like that would allow for more frame twist. What are the plans for the fuel tank now that cross member is gone?
As for the cross members I’m not worried about anything. I’m sure the two for the fuel tank straps added some rigidity but not enough for me to want to keep them. And I have a bed mounted fuel cell so that made the decision to cut the cross members out even easier.
#242
Making a little more progress, finally got the hot side in and mocked up. Upgraded to a T6 while I was at it. Hopefully start getting the cold side figured out, should be pretty simple since I'm going not Intercooled. Waiting on my torque converter to come back from having gone through and cleaned up then I can throw the trans back in real quick in and get the cab swapped over. Brake lines are next but they'll be pretty simple running -3an line. Already have the rear line to the axle in but I'll wait till the cab is back on to measure from the master cylinder accurately. If anyone has any recommendations for a radiator builder I'm all ears, looking at Ron Davis and a couple others but I want something pretty specific so I don't want just any off the shelf rad.
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ALL ULL C (07-13-2020)
#246
Slowwwwly
#247
Time for another update made a ton of progress since the last post. Cab and bed are on, trimmed fenders, and got the rad support back from powder coat. Finally got my wheels in and they were definitely worth the wait! Waiting on shocks, I originally wanted to go with Viking shocks however I called and they were worried with the ride height of the truck and concerned with the valving, same story from strange, finally ended up talking with the guys over at Afco and they're certain they have what I need so we're waiting for those to get here( hopefully by the end of this week) and we'll finally have a roller. Also plan on getting this thing on the street once it's done so I'm in the process of getting the lights wired into the painless switchboard. Wasn't a big fan of the push lock boost lines so decided to build some hard lines, pretty happy so far with how everything is turning out basically just need a drive shaft and radiator and she'll be back to moving under her own power! Just in time for winter haha
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