Freakenhye

Had a Cobalt SS/SC stock 100hp per liter. The ecotec 2.2 can be made to handle 1400hp, and this is about 700hp per liter, they are pretty inpressive i got to hand it to them, but from my point of view Dollar for Dollar ill make more power out of a domestic V8 then you would from a 4 banger. This is why i like the saying "theres no replacement for displacement."


All i have to do is go to the junk yard and find me a 455 stump puller, and about 5 grand in mods im at 700hp if not more, and that can be well over 100hp per liter engine, if you put in 10 grand worth of mods.


I love the Chevy's

CHEVRACER83

sorry misunderstanding bro... the cobalt hat is 100 h.p. per litre is supercharged... i would love to see us get a gm engine to 100 h.p. per litre n/a from the factory...

im not in any way dissing gm... i work for them... i just wish we could catch u with technology.... we are heading that direction.... but like most i wish our progress was quicker

Freakenhye

Na your not dissing GM or anyone. Im just not a fan of FWD or Imports, and put them together, you get one mean comment from me.


Hell i dont even like FWD domestics, and as far as technology yes i have to agree that GM is behind, The Ecotec can be a 100hp per liter engine if GM wants it to be. The N/A 2.4 is perducing 177hp at the crank and i think if we dyno it it should be more. Remember GM is underating its cars now.


Stock Cobalt SS/SC 205hp rating, yet all the stock ones i know that dynoed it got 210hp to the wheels stock, and last saturday i got dynoed and i was putting down 300hp on a stock 5.3 thats rated at 318hp to the crank. And if we apply this but not for sure then if we dyno a 2.4 175hp G5 then is should almost be there, and a couple of mods that is possible thru GM performance devision and it should be right up there.

NegraRCSB2X4auto

iTrader: (15)

lol what a joke.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

so where can i get a good price on some pistons and rods for my gsr block? my b16 in my car is about had it. so i want to build the b18 i have and put my turbo on it. so much cheaper to turbo a honda lol. $100 for a cast iron turbo manifold.

i have thought about the vtec ls eng thing too. that would be sweet sond stock at idle and just scream on top. you could still get great low eng torque. and with the i-vtec you could also change the cam phasing and overlap of the cam. would be funny bone stock cam and you could make it idle like it had a huge cam and then turn around and make it idle smooth.

CHEVRACER83

ae you looking for forged performance stuff? or just oem stuff? maybe used?

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

something that i can put a turbo to. i use to know everything i needed to know. when i bought my silverado my car got forgotten. now it shows it and its time to bring it back up to par. i'll be useing my b16a head and intake but using the b18 bottom end. little longer stroke hopfully alitle more torque. hell i need a obd1 ecu also. i have the stuff to tune with just not the ecu to tune. this going to be my after the new year build. so my goal is to finish my 383 for the hoe. and then get the car going again. time for tire, rotor,brakes, body work, and engine work. the best part is its paid for

CHEVRACER83

up to about 10-12 psi the stock bottom end should be ok.. otherwise if you planning on spinning it over 8500k under boost. also if your gonna be pushing it hard... getting it sleeved would probably be excellent insurance

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

well i have the stock pistons and rods. but i'm not sure how they were treated before i got it. i'm sure my t04r turbo at 10psi will make alot of power. i need to find a t3 turbine and wheel for it. i have a set of b16b pistons that i was gonna use. then i decided to go turbo. so if you have any use for a set of b16b pistons with rings and pins let me know. i would like to see 350-400 whp. i want it to at least keep up with the hoe after the 383 goes in it.

Blown2300

100hp/liter NA engines are annoying to drive. First, for a given displacement your limited to about 11-12 bar bmep.. so scale that to whatever displacment you want and that will be your peak torque.

Second, to get the "power" on the limited torque, your only option is to spin the crap out of the engine.

This does 2 things, 1. places the power in an unusable area (nobodys going to be in the 8krpm range unless racing..) and 2. induces more engine friction than nessecary. This is why honda spent lots of money to make smaller crank and main bearing diameters..

GM doesnt do this because outside of pushing the car to its limits, the normal person would rather have torque in the 2-3krpm range and not need to rev the engine to 7krpm+ just to be near peak power.. I would rather have high BMEP than high power.. and the only way to do this (oem) is Forced induction!! if you find another way.. let me know..

now if you have 100hp/liter NA below 6krpm.. let me know...

I dont know about you, but i'd rather cruise on the freeway and be able to have 2500 revs or less and still have enough torque to accelerate without downshifting... When your talking engines and specific power output.. forced induction will always win and should. Nobody wants to drive a 111lb-ft engine that makes 240hp every day.. i'd rather have a 200lb-ft engine that makes 205hp..