1987 Silverado TBI w/ 700r4 to 5.3 FI + 4L60E
10-07-2007, 12:33 AM
#11
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update:
i made and installed the fuel lines, installed the truck headers and they are not a diect fit. the lower part of the frame needs to be notched, and the header tubes need to be ding'd a bit. common procedure when doing stuff like this ..
. i also removed the drivers side fender and inner fender - pained them, laid the 5.3 harness on the motor, and started removing some of the extras such as the coolant tank level conector, the EGR connector, 2 connectors for the a/c acumulator and debating wheather or not to remove the rear o2 sensors.. im not going to ever use them, just tune them out... but i might leave them in just becuase they look cool.. (kidding about looking cool) all in all im going to install the 77-80 model motor harness, get the power flowing to the truck, then attach the starter wires and start probing for my power wires. i will buy 2 universal fuse buss' from autozone, its simular to painless' on their 5.3 harness... who knows, maybe it will start tomarrow? guess we will see.. oh yeah, mucho pictures tomarow
clint
i made and installed the fuel lines, installed the truck headers and they are not a diect fit. the lower part of the frame needs to be notched, and the header tubes need to be ding'd a bit. common procedure when doing stuff like this ..
. i also removed the drivers side fender and inner fender - pained them, laid the 5.3 harness on the motor, and started removing some of the extras such as the coolant tank level conector, the EGR connector, 2 connectors for the a/c acumulator and debating wheather or not to remove the rear o2 sensors.. im not going to ever use them, just tune them out... but i might leave them in just becuase they look cool.. (kidding about looking cool) all in all im going to install the 77-80 model motor harness, get the power flowing to the truck, then attach the starter wires and start probing for my power wires. i will buy 2 universal fuse buss' from autozone, its simular to painless' on their 5.3 harness... who knows, maybe it will start tomarrow? guess we will see.. oh yeah, mucho pictures tomarowclint
10-07-2007, 08:32 AM
#12
Launching!
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dont you think you could lift the engine a lil bit to help with header clerance seems awful low in there i mean looks good just a sug
Last edited by my black ss; 10-07-2007 at 08:38 AM.
10-10-2007, 09:49 PM
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ah psh, the motor sits perfectly... :} the headers fit (compared to the ground) fantastic. the passenger side truck header collector sits in the exact same location as the f-body did, almost right at the botttom of the frame rail (kinda tucked in). the drivers side truck header collector points downwards for some reason.. probally somethings in the way on stock 99+ FSC's. in the end it worked out to my advantage having the collector pointing down a bit, it allows for full travel of the gear linkage. i did have to trim a 3/4 of an inch off to get it to do that, but it works. all in all, i think i like the ls1 headers better. simply becuase they were tighter fitting and i had to do less frame trimming (which i will be welding some steel plate to strentghting it back up .. if it even needs it). like i said, the passenger side fit very well, the drivers side was a super easy fix.. simply cut and re routed one tube.. took about 10 minutes start to finish.
i went with truck headers since i have a truck.. and well .. thats whats on there now... its gona work though!
plus with the engine sitting as it is now, i have about 1/2" between the front oil pan and the steering linkage.. spot on, and the hood to the vortec cover probally 1/4" ive or take.. havent actually got a rock solid measurment since my core support is off and the hood sits lower.
Updates:
driveshaft was lengthend to fit, so the driveshaft is installed, fuel is plumbed, and the harness has been modified, so all i have to do is make the power connections and i should be able to start it. im def. oversimplifying the wiring, but ive been doing a lot of research on the throne and with HP tuners, i should have no issues with the 5.3 computer.
woot for progress.. il post pictures this weekend and hopefully a video.. woot!
clint
i went with truck headers since i have a truck.. and well .. thats whats on there now... its gona work though!
plus with the engine sitting as it is now, i have about 1/2" between the front oil pan and the steering linkage.. spot on, and the hood to the vortec cover probally 1/4" ive or take.. havent actually got a rock solid measurment since my core support is off and the hood sits lower.
Updates:
driveshaft was lengthend to fit, so the driveshaft is installed, fuel is plumbed, and the harness has been modified, so all i have to do is make the power connections and i should be able to start it. im def. oversimplifying the wiring, but ive been doing a lot of research on the throne and with HP tuners, i should have no issues with the 5.3 computer.
woot for progress.. il post pictures this weekend and hopefully a video.. woot!
clint
10-11-2007, 09:38 PM
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Launching!
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an its all bueno, good or bad, its all welcome... it makes for a better post.
update:
i labled the wires according to pin location, removed all pins and re pinned them the way i want it to be laid out. tomarrow i might be able to start the truck, but saturday for sure if everything goes well.
i have a question about relays. so there are 5 pins on regular 30a auto relays right... so 2 legs 85 and 86 are battery trigger and negitive ground, and 87 or 87a is the power output of 30 -asuming 30 is power.. in my case it will be power. so on the batter leg and 30 leg, do i have to run a diode in there so the relay will funcion properly or can i just twist the wires together and be run it to the same power source? i will ask the electrican tomarrow at work, but if i can get an answer now i might sleep better :}
thanks
clint
update:
i labled the wires according to pin location, removed all pins and re pinned them the way i want it to be laid out. tomarrow i might be able to start the truck, but saturday for sure if everything goes well.
i have a question about relays. so there are 5 pins on regular 30a auto relays right... so 2 legs 85 and 86 are battery trigger and negitive ground, and 87 or 87a is the power output of 30 -asuming 30 is power.. in my case it will be power. so on the batter leg and 30 leg, do i have to run a diode in there so the relay will funcion properly or can i just twist the wires together and be run it to the same power source? i will ask the electrican tomarrow at work, but if i can get an answer now i might sleep better :}
thanks
clint
10-13-2007, 01:50 PM
#16
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update:
well it starts and runs. sob.... my initial intention was to pull the motor and painthe frame rails right... so i didnt intall fuel rail bolts or tighten down any of the fuel fittings... and the p/s pump pressure side fitting. so on the first attmpt i started it, it ran and died.. i stop and get out, im like i smell gas. my buddy was like thats good.. im like no this isnt a normal gas smell... so we tighten install the fuel rail fully and go for round 2.
round 2 we start it and fire it and my buds g/f was like its leaking.. i stop, and its the fuel rail fittings.. great.. tighten those down and go for round 3.
round 3 left a huge puddle under the car becuase none of the nuts were tight on the an lines going to the fuel filter or the fuel filter itself.. sob. all thats tight and almost leak free.. i need to teflon tape the an fitting going onto the TUBE NUT. i will be replacing that with a 16mm 0-ring -6an fitting and elievate that problem all together.
round 4 i add p/s fluid since i forgot to before hand and i was like crap i hope i didnt kill it.. so i add fluid, bleed the system and we start it.. imstanly gushes out the back.. im like common clint. thats the last fitting that could possibly leak!
right now i dont have any 02 connectors installed so it runs like poop, but it runs none the less.. i need to check my buds MIL light becuase it didnt work when i conneced the other end of the light to ground, but when i conected it to power it lit up like its supposed to. so i think its correct now, but we will see.
so now i will be zip tieing the harness and wraping it up so it will be complete! i still need to ding notch the passenger side frame rail a tad bit more and ding the driver side header a tad too, then that should be a wrap. laslty would be connect the trans lines and TC back and drive it around
but it looks like this fuse box will work woot... saved some money there.. just took some planning and some time.
till then,
clint
well it starts and runs. sob.... my initial intention was to pull the motor and painthe frame rails right... so i didnt intall fuel rail bolts or tighten down any of the fuel fittings... and the p/s pump pressure side fitting. so on the first attmpt i started it, it ran and died.. i stop and get out, im like i smell gas. my buddy was like thats good.. im like no this isnt a normal gas smell... so we tighten install the fuel rail fully and go for round 2.
round 2 we start it and fire it and my buds g/f was like its leaking.. i stop, and its the fuel rail fittings.. great.. tighten those down and go for round 3.
round 3 left a huge puddle under the car becuase none of the nuts were tight on the an lines going to the fuel filter or the fuel filter itself.. sob. all thats tight and almost leak free.. i need to teflon tape the an fitting going onto the TUBE NUT. i will be replacing that with a 16mm 0-ring -6an fitting and elievate that problem all together.
round 4 i add p/s fluid since i forgot to before hand and i was like crap i hope i didnt kill it.. so i add fluid, bleed the system and we start it.. imstanly gushes out the back.. im like common clint. thats the last fitting that could possibly leak!
right now i dont have any 02 connectors installed so it runs like poop, but it runs none the less.. i need to check my buds MIL light becuase it didnt work when i conneced the other end of the light to ground, but when i conected it to power it lit up like its supposed to. so i think its correct now, but we will see.
so now i will be zip tieing the harness and wraping it up so it will be complete! i still need to ding notch the passenger side frame rail a tad bit more and ding the driver side header a tad too, then that should be a wrap. laslty would be connect the trans lines and TC back and drive it around
but it looks like this fuse box will work woot... saved some money there.. just took some planning and some time.till then,
clint
10-13-2007, 10:32 PM
#18
Launching!
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custom transmission crossmember
when using brackets like this, and using a factory compressr, its necessary to install the motor mount bolt from the rear. otherwise you will need to remove the a/c lines (loosing your charge) remove the a/c compressor to remove the bolt. assuming you could remove the a/c compressor anyway with the motor still in the car.
another clearance shot
C2 connector turned into a fuse box
10-23-2007, 10:28 PM
#19
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Update:
wire harness 100% complete - not installed, new o2 bungs installed, headers installed 100%, coresupport installed, computer tuned (no mil light on due to problems).
im lackinng the harness to be installed and then i can mount the computer and be done with that. lastly would be drain the trans (if it has fluid in it) and fill it, install the tq converter bolts and take her for a spin. i dont have any gauges so i will be at the mercy of my friends laptop... hp tuners has the gauge i need (temp). i will be ordering some 2 5/8 gauges in a while, but once i know it runs, thats gona be good enough for now...
clint
wire harness 100% complete - not installed, new o2 bungs installed, headers installed 100%, coresupport installed, computer tuned (no mil light on due to problems).
im lackinng the harness to be installed and then i can mount the computer and be done with that. lastly would be drain the trans (if it has fluid in it) and fill it, install the tq converter bolts and take her for a spin. i dont have any gauges so i will be at the mercy of my friends laptop... hp tuners has the gauge i need (temp). i will be ordering some 2 5/8 gauges in a while, but once i know it runs, thats gona be good enough for now...
clint
