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1987 Silverado TBI w/ 700r4 to 5.3 FI + 4L60E

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Old 12-17-2007, 12:33 PM
  #31  
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these arent the best pictures ive taken, but ..







new carpet and ive tucked the carpet under the kick panels to boot.





Old 12-17-2007, 12:34 PM
  #32  
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Today i finaly solved the SES light issue. turns out i burnt the o2 connector on B2S1 and then wired A and D wrong which blew the fuse instantly when key is on. after solving that problem i still had 140 and 160. i had a massive brain fart and couldnt grasp the bank 1 and bank 2 theory for a few minutes and then searched and poof those codes were from the post cat and i didnt have them hooked up - they were deleted. long story short on that one was my friend showed me how to delete the code and delete the SES "signal" for the rear o2's and EGR. at this current moment, no SES light is on, and there are no stored/pending or current codes being thrown... woot woot.
its getting colder than i like, but i will be wiring up the cruise control module this weekend. i have a baller cruise diagram for the 87 and 02ish trucks and that should be a breeze.

1987 silverado has a 4 pin connector for the cruise controls:

Pink/Black - Ignition power
Grey - On/Off
Dk Blue - Set
DK Green - Resume/Accel

1999+ Silverado Cruise Control servo connector has 9 wires:
A - Grey - On/Off
B - DK Blue - Set/Coast
C - Grey Blk - Resume/Accel
D - TCC/Brake Switch Signal (A/T)
E - Blk/Wht - Ground
F - Brown - Hot in Run
G - Brake Switch Signal
J - LT BLU/BLK Cruise Enable Signal - wire 13C2 (red)
K - VSS - wire 50 C2 (red)

i will post up the results later on.
clint
Old 12-17-2007, 05:33 PM
  #33  
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well i just finished the wiring on the cruise control and it doesnt work? im not sure why, but im positive about my wiring, powers and grounds. the cruise control switch operates the same way, but there are things i dont know such as: the condition of the cruise servo, or the condition of the switch. i can test the switch for continuity and that should narrow the specrum down. im not sure i could get away with pulling my dads work truck servo off and trying it but i might if he goes to the store *wink wink*. bummer, i will post up when i have more, hopefuly better news.
clint
Old 12-18-2007, 02:33 PM
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I like how you set the engine forward to use the factory AC compressor location. How far forward did you have to set the engine to achieve that?
Old 12-20-2007, 12:21 PM
  #35  
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well instead of using the factory aftermaket engine plates, i made my own copying the idea. this picture is something i found online. the marks in red is what i did to allow factor a/c.



if the bracket is installed like its supposed to, the factory bracket will hit the adapter plate. if you drill/tap 1 extra hole, counter sink the other, and cut around the red line it will be like i have mine. the reason why you need to counter sink them is becuase the bolt that holds the plate to the motor, will interfere with the factory mounter mount bucket. i used aluminum and i still had a bitc* of a time countersinking it, and i used allen head beveled bolts (like in the picture). i still had to grind the motor mount bucket a bit to clear the beveled bolt.
now you need the 03+ compressors (brackets doesnt make a difference here) but as i think i said before the >02 has a huge manifold on the a/c line, while the <03 has 2 seperate lines (like in my putfile pictures) you will have to notch the frame a bit, but thats about it.
clint
Old 12-20-2007, 09:57 PM
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Clint,

What did you end up using for a Throttle cable?
thnx
Brad
Old 12-21-2007, 04:08 PM
  #37  
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stock 5.3. i only had to bore the factory square hole out to make it round. after that, fit like a charm. i did have to heat up the gas pedal rod and bend it a tad. with the cable hooked up and everything like it should, 100% throttle yieled only 50% on the TB. a simple process of heating it up (which is a must since its forged, so ive been told.. and if you dont and just try and bend it it might break?) anyway i bent it 2x becuase i went in small incrents. easy as pie.
clint
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