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Raw Stock;


Mill Finish:


Random Orbital W/ 220 Grit:


Wet sand 320 Grit:


Wet Sand 400 Grit:

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Buffer should turn 2800 – 3200 for best results, watch the stiffer wheels with the heavy rouge it will leave tracers lines behind any engravings. I highly recommend a Painters hood, respirator and some safety goggles for this.


Sisal Wheel:


Open Cotton backed by a sewn Cotton Wheel:


Rouges & Gloves:




Buttering your work:


Sisal Wheel Brown Rouge:




Sisal Wheel White Rouge:




Open Cotton Wheel Blue Rouge:




Open Cotton Wheel White Rouge:

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The next step is Hand Polishing; we all have our favorite products I’m sure, these pictures are prior too use of this product.
This is mine, currently.







One quick shot with the hand. Notice the clarity of the print on the right half of the piece. The next few passes will bring depth to the shine





From this too this.Bling!

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The first picture I have here is a freshly machined surface straight from the machinist. Notice the milling marks, some Machinists will slow down there passes and use a higher quality bit to reduce these markings.




Since this shop keeps there pass speed up and doesn’t change out to a fresh or different bit one must go thru some addition processes.
First for me is a good random orbital sander. I myself use a Dewalt with the variable speed settings.
Next sandpaper and grits.

Keep in mind folk's if one stays in one place too long you will or can leave grooves from your finger tips as well.
Always over lap your sanding, keep your paper fresh and allow it to work for you.
Once you start with the buffing compounds the same rules apply.
This is a picture of the first pass, of many using a 220 grit with a open hole pattern for dispersal of any residue.
Make sure you use a fresh piece; don’t set it face down as it may pick up some debris that will cause scaring and extra work for you.
Maintain as flat as possible angle to your work surface (If not totally flat) to avoid pitch marks from the angle and or pressure of the machine against the work surface. A heavy grit paper can and will reek havoc on Aluminum in very short order.



This first set of pictures will show where I leaned a little too hard with the Palm Sander and left some tracking marks or sanding gouges.





The next step is increasing the grit count (The higher the number the more particles per square inch) on the paper your using, wither it be a Dry-Sand or a Wet-Sand paper.
Myself I go start too the wet-sand a 320 grit or count is a reasonable step. Some may take another step from there and go to a 400 grit.
Either way keep sanding with the grain so too speak, and yes metals can and do have graining from there processing.

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These will ease in remove the lines left by sanding once you hit the buffer, if going this route but by hand keep stepping up with the grit count the finer you get the less polishing will have too occur.
This picture shows the suspended particles of Aluminum, too ease the clogging effect these will have on your Wet-Sand paper use a drop of soap and rinse your paper often.



Buffer time;

Sisal Wheel Brown Rouge:




Sisal Wheel White Rouge:




Open Cotton Wheel Blue Rouge:




Open Cotton Wheel White Rouge:






The next step is Hand Polishing; we all have our favorite products I’m sure, these pictures are prior too use of this product.
This is mine, currently.







After the use of a high grade Billet polish, a 2” X 15” piece takes 1 hour.

trever1t

iTrader: (14)

Easy. Now try that on my Weld Dune 6's

Nice write up. What do you recommend for "sealing" the polish? I currenty use a pure carnuba.

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Zoop Seal, it has lasted on my engine for 2 years currently..