camochevy21

I just have a few dumb wax questions for all of you experts.

What is the easiest way to get wax residue off black plastic? (Mirrors, rear bumper, etc.)

Do you wash your microfiber cloth in the washing machine? How about applicator pads? I assume not, but that is why they are "dumb" questions.

What method do you prefer? I've seen a lot of them done. Hand apply on, buff off. Buff on, buff off or so on so forth.

Buffer-what texture of pad?

Thanks fellas, slowly but surely going from muddy truck drivin redneck, to shiny truck enthusiast.

BUDDY23

iTrader: (4)

I'd check out http://www.autopia.org/ This site is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to detailing.

Personally, I use Zaino on my truck. It's a bit more time consuming but I think it's worth the extra steps for a shine that lasts 6+ months. And I can get it off the shelf at my local speed shop, rather than order it online. I also apply it by hand with a forward to rear movement, not in circles. Zaino also sells a special wash for your microfiber cloths to clean the wax off of them. I don't bother washing my applicator pads- just trash them after a few uses. Note- use whatever brand wax/polish you want, I just like the results of Zaino and never looked back.

Wax on the textured black plastic is a pain, but I've found that using a tooth brush and some elbow greese works the best with the least amount of cleanup afterwards. Believe it or not, peanut butter and toothpaste works too but there's too much cleanup involved to be bothered with them, but they do work.

If you really want to get your plastic looking better than new, then try Refinish Restorer -> http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya.../carere1l.html
You only need a very little and the can will last you forever. 2 coats should make you happy. Just prep the plastic really well before applying- clean with dawn, clean with denatured alcohol, then apply. If any gets on your paint, denatured alcohol will whipe it away, but it will also remove any wax/polish too. It's best to just tape it off beforehand.

Hope that helps.

SuperSilverado_05

I'm still asking the dumb wax questions too so don't feel so bad and one thing for you is meguires makes a back to black that cleans wax and other stuff off of your black plastic parts it works pretty good for me that's about all I have for you its just my 02 cents

Preston129

iTrader: (3)

I post on a detailing forum, and here's the best advice I've come across for dealing with wax residue on textured black plastics:

The best advice going forward is to mask off areas you know are going to be difficult to was around, it'll save you a lot of headaches.

I wash my pads and MF clothes in the washing machine, but I only wash media that is dirty with similar products, for example, I wash everything that has touched wax in one load, and all the buffing clothes in another.

I rinse/soak everything first with a degreasing dish soap like Dawn first, then wash in the washing machine with a dedicated MF detergent. If you're using regular detergent I think you want to stay away from ones with softener.

I prefer waxing by hand but that may just be because I'm not an expert with the buffer yet. I also enjoy waxing by hand, even if it takes all morning.

For buffer pads for applying wax, you want the softest pad available. Typically white, grey or black ones are normally the softest and less agressive. Jewelling pads work well too for waxes.

TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

Good questions.

I too am plauged by wax on my bumper caps. PITA to get off, and really looks bad on an all black truck.


My fav wax is wizards shinemaster. Awesome stuff, apply by hand or foam buffer pad. Easy to wipe off, lasts a long time, and has a paint sealent in it. some of the best stuff ive ever used.

BLUES MAN

straight white distilled vinegar has always worked for me, followed up by some armorall.

works to get hard water spots off of paint also.

Matt@adams

There are no dumb questions... if you don't ask how will you ever know?

As for cleaning textured trim I've always used a diluted APC and a toothbrush. Work in a circular pattern and allow the bristles to get into the crevices... I was able to remove paint transfer using this method, so wax and polish residue is no problem:

Before:

During:

After:


Microfiber can be machine washed as long as you follow some basic rules -

Wash separately, never mix in your other laundry. Cross fiber contamination and other issues will ruin your microfiber and the polish/wax residue in the towels can ruin your clothes.

Use only liquid laundry soap, no granulated, or even a dedicated microfiber detergent. Try to find a low dye / low scent detergent. Dyes and fragrances just clog up your towels.

Use a low heat or cold water setting and extra rinse cycle if your washer is equipped.

Toss in the dryer, again separate, on a low heat or air fluff setting. USE ABSOLUTELY NO FABRIC SOFTENER.

Your choice of method is going to come down more to what you're trying to accomplish and the products you're working with. The general rule is that by hand your going to be fairly limited, you can only hope to REDUCE imperfections, not remove them. It requires the speed and cut of a machine to remove swirls and defects.

The pad will again depend on the product and the condition you are addressing.

Good luck and feel free to pick my brain if you need help with anything else. Like suggested above there are many good resources on the web for helping you figure out what you need.

We offer a series of instructional videos online and in a DVD that ships with your order. Its a very broad overview of the process, but helpful in getting you from "stupid questions" to a better understanding of what you need for each situation.

http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx

camochevy21

Thanks for all the help guys! Keep it coming. Dylan, I knew you would chime in and glad you did. Great info!!