VroomVroom

Thanks! I've heard good and bad about that buffer...I'm not sure you can do much correction work with it.

I've not used Zaino paint products, but I have seen the results...stunning. The thing to keep in mind is that you're doing very little correction with their products. Instead, they're designed to fill and hide the imperfections. What makes Zaino so much better than similar products (i.e. Adam's) is the durability of the sealant. Those swirls stay filled for a pretty long time, and the finish stays wet and reflective. From what I understand, it's not difficult to use their products, but you do need to do so in the right order and make sure the finish is very clean beforehand so the products can bond properly.

The great thing about the entire Poorboy's line is that their stuff is very easy to use. It doesn't always offer the greatest results - at least compared to some other brands out there - but it's particularly great for folks just getting into the whole detailing thing.

tdrumm

iTrader: (18)

Billy, the truck looks great! There is so much good info in this thread too. Maybe sometime I'll have the time to use some of it! My truck hasn't seen wax since 2004!

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Maybe we should detail it after the cam swap and trans cooler install

COLDZ71

iTrader: (2)

The Harbor Freight buffer can do alot of correction. The main difference between the HF and a $200 buffer is overall build quality and the ability to hold rpm with a load. If you are only planning on using it occassionally it can help you out immenssly.

Remember, improperly used the rotary can do more harm than good. Start out using light cut polishes and pads and you will be all set.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

I won't be using it too often...honestly I'm pretty scared of causing damage to the paint job. I know that you have to keep moving, and don't press too hard. I'll definitely be starting out with the lower speed style buffer and mild stuff before I move on to a Porter Cable type of thing. I'll use my wife's white Toyota Matrix and mom's forest green Solara as guinea pigs lol. They don't really care and they're paint jobs are already beat

They're may be an "Educate me on buffing techniques" thread in my future

VroomVroom

I guess "occasionally" is relative. Not trying to argue here...I've just heard stories where this buffer won't complete one pass on a vehicle without going into thermal breakdown. My thought is to save up for the real deal...whether that's DA or rotary...instead of spending money in the short term on something that won't last.

I spent four years with the PC before buying a rotary. For most of the details I do the PC is fine (with 4" pads and polishes with good working time it is amazing what correction you can do with a PC), but the rotary does the work much faster. Definitely good advice on being very cautious with the rotary until you gain confidence on it.

Anyway, my apologies for helping take this thread off-topic. If you're not into doing a lot of correction work, a clay treatment is the perfect prep for a paint cleanser and a coat of your favorite wax/sealant.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

That's OK, I've learned alot from the info in this thread, it got me through my first real detail Hopefully others have learned some stuff too

wesley_burks

iTrader: (1)

just a little quick over view of what i do. most cars or trucks that i encounter are a little more than marred and swirled, so i often bring out the big guns. after claying, i will bring out the makita and 3m perfect it running compound and a cut pad(only if it calls for it), then i will correct rotary mistakes with an orange pad and porter cable with menzerna intense(an extra step but well worth the time). i then finish with a white pad on the makita and menzerna final polish II. this FINALIZES everything, really adds depth and perfection. Menzerna runs about a dollar and ounce, but if you are using strictly on your own truck, it should last forever. final polish is a little more, but a crucial step. if you really want a close to perfect shine with little effort and no chance for damage, get a PC, its about $130. here are some shots
here are a couple of my truck:



here is a customer car from the other week:

VroomVroom

I've got the PC and a Makita too...our approaches are nearly identical, although I'm starting to use the rotary more and more for all correction work - it's just so darn fast. FYI, in case you haven't encountered this, the carriers/fillers in IP have been known to hide as many holograms as they correct. It's not something that's caught until a wash or two. I'm starting to use a quick alcohol rub after polishing, followed by a walkaround in bright sunlight or via halogens to make sure everything is just right.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Bringing this back up to the top for those of us who are stuck in the middle of winter and jonesin for our rides to be clean and shiny again!