leochevy2001

iTrader: (6)

Blown 96 ws-6, so how hard was the install? Did you get the deluxe of economy drop? I am thinking about getting the deluxe drop and I looking for a really good deal. I have had a couple of quotes but am a little hesitant because i don't know much about the company. Are you saying that you didn't get any bump stops? Did you still use your factory shocks? Was a carrier bearing kit required? Sorry so many questions but I just wanted to know more.

Blown 96 WS-6

The install was very straight forward (I assume your a decent garage mechanic). As with all these guys though, the instructions are ****. "Take off old part, put on new part"

I also got the deluxe kit. Very easy to change out the front spindles. I guess the biggest challenge up front is pounding the old spindle off the tapered bolts/ball joints. Even on my brand new truck it took a few good wacks to get one off. I had significant negative camber after the install because I have a torsion bar front suspension and I didn't unload them first. Regardless, a front end alignment is essential afterwards. It made a huge difference in mine both in correcting my camber and even my drop (got another 3/4 for an exact 2" after the torsion bars were correctly adjusted). I also had them check the torque settings and my ball joints. BTW, a lot of the bounce I was complaining about disappeared after re-aligment.

The rear was more time consumming. Moving the tank over wasn't very difficult but grinding the rivets off sucked. I had to use a dremel and went through 12 little disks for the upper back rivets because there is no way to get the bigger disk of a regular hand held grinder in there. I also had to remove my hitch to get the shackles installed, again, no big deal, it just took longer than I had expected. Remember to wait to tighten the actual bolts that go through the front and rear of the leaf spring (through the shackles and the hangers) until the truck is down so they have a chance to "pivot" down. The instructions just tell you not to overtighten them but the best way that was suggested to me was to wait to tighten thhem until the truck is down in it's normal position so the springs have had the chance to rotate down.

No, I didn't get any after market bumo stops. Remember to cut all but about 1" off your stock bump stops or you'll be riding them - very uncomfortable . I don't know what the bumps look like on your year truck but mine had 4 or 5 ridges (looked like the Michelin Man). I cut mine down to the last ridge.

The kit did not include a carrier bearing and I did not need one. No vibration or hum. I also did not get new shocks. The kit does not require new shocks and McGaughy says you don't need them unless you have other shock issues. I plan to add a SlamAir rear helper system to "pump it up" when I tow.

BTW, with the rear kit you will basically have 3 choices of drop. 4" if you use the top holes for both hanger and shackle. 3 1/2" (what I ended up using) if you use one top and one bottom. 3" if you use both bottom holes.

I was very impressed with McGaughy's quality and service.

I bought mine direct from McGaughy. I got it the next freakin day but we're both in California. The kit was $385 and the shipping was $26.87

Let me know if you have any other questions.

leochevy2001

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info, Paul. I think I will be getting mine ordering mine on Monday. I got a price quote of $375 shipped, which I thought was apretty good price. I was going to try and get the Hotchkis from tbryne but I still needed to get shocks, and I am on a really tight budget. I am hoping that the truck will look good with the 17" esky wheels that I have. I remember someone getting the deluxe drop and said something about having to grind down some part of the suspension when using a 17" wheel. Do you know anything about that?

Blown 96 WS-6

Hotchkis makes great parts but I would rather lower via spindles or LCA's than springs if I could help it. Much less inpact on ride quality. With changing your spindle, your springs remains at full length and spring rate which means a stock ride quality.

The spindle drop REQUIRES 17" wheels as a minimum. Even at 17", you are going to want to take a close look at clearances once you get them on. Remember, your new spindles have the hole for the hub moved exactly 2" up, so your wheel mounts 2" up but everything else in the front suspension remains at the same place so relationships have changed. You want to make certain the wheel doesn't come in contact with tie rods, brake calipers, brake lines, etc., etc. My 20's were no where near anything.

$375 shipped? That's awesome. You saved another $30-35 all together!

If I were getting shocks I would consider Doestch or Edlebrocks but i'm fine up front and getting the SlamAir kit for the rear because I want to be able to adjust the rear under load.

Good luck with the install and let me know how it comes out.

leochevy2001

iTrader: (6)

Thanks again man for the info. I'll keep everybody updated and hopefully get some before and after pics.

leochevy2001

iTrader: (6)

Well, I ran into some problems this past Saturday when trying to install the drop. A couple of guys were helping me out with this also. The shackles were easy to change out but when it came to the hangers, it was just like you Paul, we didn't have anything to fit between the frame and the stock hanger. So we decided to skip that and move to the front. We took off the wheels and started taking apart the front suspension. The ball joint were giving us problems due to lack of tools. We went to Pep Boys and bought a picklefork and we were able to get the upper ball joint off without problems. The lower ball joint did not want to cooperate. We banged and hammered on that thing for over an hour and still would not come out. We started the drop a little past 8:30 that morning and finally gave up around 6:45 that night. We did have a 2.5 hr break but I didn't think that it would be that hard. So now I am riding 2" lower in the back which really gives my truck a different look.

Paul, did your spindles have rivots also? I am hearing that mine does and that might be why it was so difficult to remove the lower ball joint from the stock spindle. Did you use air tools to remove the spindle?

Blown 96 WS-6

No rivets up front. Just need to break those ball joints loose. They can be an absolute bitch. I ended up putting a little divot in the lip of my brand new truck's fender from drawing the sledge hammer back and trying to get a big heavy hit on it. I cried I would get back at it with your pickle fork and sledge or maybe even take it somewhere that's willing to just pop them loose for you.

I have air in my garage but did not use air tools for this job. Some have said that an air chisel (which I don't have) works really well on the rivets on the hanger so you might try that.

leochevy2001

iTrader: (6)

Are they easier to remove again once they have been popped out? Did you have to replace any of you ball joints after using a pickle fork?

Blown 96 WS-6

I guess I wasn't suggesting that you have someone break them loose and then reinstall them on the stock spindle. I was thinking that if you just can't get it off yourself, you might need to take it to someone and have them do it. you might try a good alignment /suspension shop. they can probably swap spindles without too much hassle and then align it while it's in ths shop.

I didn't use a pickle fork to get mine off. I don't think you should have to replace the ball joints unless you're really abusing them to get them off.

leochevy2001

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Paul for you help. I started calling around for prices for a spindle install.