How to keep DRL's and have them blink with signals
06-21-2005 | 08:38 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Slammedchevy01
Im gunna have to look up screams article again soon!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...urn+signal+mod
06-22-2005 | 10:20 AM
#13
Thread Starter
High on diesel fumes
iTrader: (70)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 12,658
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
Still working fine for me, haven't burned out a diode, have normal DRL's by day(orange though cause of the bulbs), and a blinking signal and parking light by night....
06-23-2005 | 02:44 PM
#14
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Waco, TX
Originally Posted by thunder550
Still working fine for me, haven't burned out a diode, have normal DRL's by day(orange though cause of the bulbs), and a blinking signal and parking light by night....
06-24-2005 | 02:16 AM
#15
Thread Starter
High on diesel fumes
iTrader: (70)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 12,658
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
Since the diodes are directional and only let current pass one direction, you have to pay attention to the orientation of the stripe around one end. The stripe should go towards the light for both diodes.
I stripped off some insulation off the wires I was attaching the diodes to and soldered them in place, then sealed em up with some heat shrink tubing. I dunno how sensitive they are to the elements, but I didn't want to find out either. If you don't have a soldering iron Radio Shack has some decent ones for like $10-$15, I had to buy mine before I did this and it wasn't too bad. Use some kind of solder with a rosin core, I used silver w/ rosin core. An extra pair of hands would be nice too, holding two pieces, solder, and soldering iron is tough to do all at the same time
Step by step:
1. Cut off factory 2-wire DRL socket
2. Solder non-stripe end of first diode to the positive DRL wire from vehicle
3. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
4. Solder positive bright (outside) wire from new 3-wire DRL socket to the stripe end of first diode
5. Connect ground wire from new DRL socket directly to ground wire from vehicle
6. Connect positive dim (middle) wire from new DRL socket directly to positive dim (middle) wire on signal socket
7. Splice a short wire into the positive bright (outside) wire on the signal socket
8. Solder non-stripe end of second diode to wire from step 7
9. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
10. Solder stripe end of second diode to a short length of wire
11. Splice short wire from step 10 into positive bright (outside) wire on new DRL socket IN BETWEEN first diode and new DRL socket
12. Shrink/seal the heat shrink tubing, completely cover diodes and solder joints
Hope that answered your questions, let me know if you have any more. I like the way my lights turned out....like having orange DRL's now
I stripped off some insulation off the wires I was attaching the diodes to and soldered them in place, then sealed em up with some heat shrink tubing. I dunno how sensitive they are to the elements, but I didn't want to find out either. If you don't have a soldering iron Radio Shack has some decent ones for like $10-$15, I had to buy mine before I did this and it wasn't too bad. Use some kind of solder with a rosin core, I used silver w/ rosin core. An extra pair of hands would be nice too, holding two pieces, solder, and soldering iron is tough to do all at the same time
Step by step:
1. Cut off factory 2-wire DRL socket
2. Solder non-stripe end of first diode to the positive DRL wire from vehicle
3. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
4. Solder positive bright (outside) wire from new 3-wire DRL socket to the stripe end of first diode
5. Connect ground wire from new DRL socket directly to ground wire from vehicle
6. Connect positive dim (middle) wire from new DRL socket directly to positive dim (middle) wire on signal socket
7. Splice a short wire into the positive bright (outside) wire on the signal socket
8. Solder non-stripe end of second diode to wire from step 7
9. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
10. Solder stripe end of second diode to a short length of wire
11. Splice short wire from step 10 into positive bright (outside) wire on new DRL socket IN BETWEEN first diode and new DRL socket
12. Shrink/seal the heat shrink tubing, completely cover diodes and solder joints
Hope that answered your questions, let me know if you have any more. I like the way my lights turned out....like having orange DRL's now
06-24-2005 | 05:54 AM
#17
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Waco, TX
Originally Posted by thunder550
Since the diodes are directional and only let current pass one direction, you have to pay attention to the orientation of the stripe around one end. The stripe should go towards the light for both diodes.
I stripped off some insulation off the wires I was attaching the diodes to and soldered them in place, then sealed em up with some heat shrink tubing. I dunno how sensitive they are to the elements, but I didn't want to find out either. If you don't have a soldering iron Radio Shack has some decent ones for like $10-$15, I had to buy mine before I did this and it wasn't too bad. Use some kind of solder with a rosin core, I used silver w/ rosin core. An extra pair of hands would be nice too, holding two pieces, solder, and soldering iron is tough to do all at the same time
Step by step:
1. Cut off factory 2-wire DRL socket
2. Solder non-stripe end of first diode to the positive DRL wire from vehicle
3. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
4. Solder positive bright (outside) wire from new 3-wire DRL socket to the stripe end of first diode
5. Connect ground wire from new DRL socket directly to ground wire from vehicle
6. Connect positive dim (middle) wire from new DRL socket directly to positive dim (middle) wire on signal socket
7. Splice a short wire into the positive bright (outside) wire on the signal socket
8. Solder non-stripe end of second diode to wire from step 7
9. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
10. Solder stripe end of second diode to a short length of wire
11. Splice short wire from step 10 into positive bright (outside) wire on new DRL socket IN BETWEEN first diode and new DRL socket
12. Shrink/seal the heat shrink tubing, completely cover diodes and solder joints
Hope that answered your questions, let me know if you have any more. I like the way my lights turned out....like having orange DRL's now
I stripped off some insulation off the wires I was attaching the diodes to and soldered them in place, then sealed em up with some heat shrink tubing. I dunno how sensitive they are to the elements, but I didn't want to find out either. If you don't have a soldering iron Radio Shack has some decent ones for like $10-$15, I had to buy mine before I did this and it wasn't too bad. Use some kind of solder with a rosin core, I used silver w/ rosin core. An extra pair of hands would be nice too, holding two pieces, solder, and soldering iron is tough to do all at the same time
Step by step:
1. Cut off factory 2-wire DRL socket
2. Solder non-stripe end of first diode to the positive DRL wire from vehicle
3. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
4. Solder positive bright (outside) wire from new 3-wire DRL socket to the stripe end of first diode
5. Connect ground wire from new DRL socket directly to ground wire from vehicle
6. Connect positive dim (middle) wire from new DRL socket directly to positive dim (middle) wire on signal socket
7. Splice a short wire into the positive bright (outside) wire on the signal socket
8. Solder non-stripe end of second diode to wire from step 7
9. Slide heat-shrink tube over diode for sealing later
10. Solder stripe end of second diode to a short length of wire
11. Splice short wire from step 10 into positive bright (outside) wire on new DRL socket IN BETWEEN first diode and new DRL socket
12. Shrink/seal the heat shrink tubing, completely cover diodes and solder joints
Hope that answered your questions, let me know if you have any more. I like the way my lights turned out....like having orange DRL's now
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