AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

We used to recieve brand new cars from General Motors with "RAIL DUST" on them(when I worked at the dealership). When the vehicles are being transported by train, hot iron metal filings fly all around the vehicles like a dust cloud. They land on the paint & embed themselves. Then they filings rust.

It usually looks like the vehicle will need to be repainted to correct it, but there is a way to fix the problem. No, a clay bar will not work.

Our body shop had a specific type of acid wash that was used to remove the filings, without any paint damage. I'll try to find more info for you.

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

Get a clay bar and a bottle of water, do a small area to see if it removes it, makes it smooth( you do know you will need to buff/polish it after a bar) If that doesn't remove it, get some 2000G wet sand paper, try a small area. If that does it, have at it. But if you have no exp doing wet sanding, I would let a pro or shop do it. Just like the bar, it will need buffed/polished after wards. But like mention check with the shop to see whats up.. Good luck

Uncle Monkey

Rail dust is real common and easy to remove with the right acid wash without "harming" the paint. (wax after) Any good detail shop should be able to do it. If it is larger then "dust" then you will start getting into claybars and such

Matt@adams

Clay will definitely remedy the problem, but then depending on how long it was allowed to sit and the extent to which the particles oxidized you may need to polish to remove the minor marks/pitting left behind.

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-...ng-system.html

Frito Bandito

iTrader: (4)

Bingo! A decon wash is the way to go. A clay bar will shear the particles off level with the paint. It will look better at first but the metal particles will likely "bloom" again and you will see the specks re-appear. At least, that's what happens with rail dust and I bet your problem is similar. Auto international also offers a decon wash if you want to look into it.

Uncle Monkey

I'm not saying claybar won't work but it is much more labor intensive (2-3hrs) then spray and rinse (5 min) IF it is a "rail dust" problem. We use to charge an extra $20-50 over a handwash to cover the cost of the acid.

"Rail dust" can come from a variety of places - sand blasting, metallic brake pads, metal fabricating, living near or working in industrial areas.

All you can do is show the shop and work it out with them. It is possible your vehicle got dosed somewhere else and you are just noticing it now

DBRODS

iTrader: (1)

Sucks to hear Travis. More than likely the metal that is burned in your clear is from other vehicles not yours. If your paint is factory then your screwed. The clear isn't thick enough to get the dimples out. The worst thing you could do is try and wet sand them out. The remains will come out while sanding and make a mess of the area. 80 and 120 particles don't mix well with 1500 or 2000 grit paper. I hate to say it but this is a huge precaution that I do when working on customers projects. You can never have enough welding blankets, paper rolls, and masking tape laying around.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Thanks, for the comments guys. I've spoken to the shop and a local paint/body guy and the general opinion for right now is to try the clay bar solution. If that does not work, then I'll have to figure something else out.

1LOW4X4

iTrader: (2)

Ok I can't help it. This is the stupidest **** I have ever heard in my life. Take the truck down there to the shop that fucked it up and make them fix it or pay to fix it. Doesn't matter how well of a job they did on the chassis or rollcage or whatever, if they don't know how to prep or take precautions then the rest of their work is worthless as **** on a boarhog.

Don't you see the pattern in this thread of every single person telling you the shop needs to fix it? And all we get is a "the shop recommended a clay bar too"

LOL how nice of them.