My paint is F'ed after getting it back from the chassis shop. How to fix?
#53
TECH Resident
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If you never saw this thread its a pretty good beginner "How to." Also that doesn't seem that bad after you clayed it. It will probably take a few bars to do the whole truck though.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=439308
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=439308
#54
Thanks guys. I got the cab, doors, fenders and front bumper done today and I must say it turned out about like the hood. So, at least for now I have the metal removed and it shouldn't be gettng worse. I did a ton of searching last night (mainly presidentals threads) and I'm confused about 1 thing. He typically uses m105 and then m205 from meguiars following the clay bar. I do have a couple of questions, is this a buffing compound or a polish or is that the same thing. Also, do you wipe the compound off between steps with a micro or what? He always lists a 50/50 mix of distilled water and 91% Isopropol alcohol, what is this for?
#55
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The alky is to get off any residue after the previous coat. Yes after each step clean the paint off..I use stuff from 3M, called perfect it, it works fukn great.. Compound and polish kinda. Both are something that is used to aid in removing scratches.. Polish gives the wet look, some depth in the paint, is not as abrasive as a compound.. But after that it needs to be sealed, with a good wax.. So step 1 after you have your clay bar done. Wipe the truck off. Next is to use a very light compound.. 2 wipe down the truck.3 use a finishing compound, on a foam pad,wipe the truck down. 4 polish the truck, make sure it is clean of any excess polish( I wouldn't use the alky water mix in this part but thats me) 5 give it a good coat of wax.. This has always giving me EXCELLENT results.. take your time, remember to always keep the buffing wheel turning away from the edges, not into them or it will burn the paint off..
#56
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dayum it was worst that what i thought it would be when you started the thread... im a paint & body man ive worked on trucks and cars for along time and IMO i think you need a new paint job. wet sand it and buff it i will look alot better. Good luck fixing it.
#58
Moderator
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you can make it look a TON better with wet sanding and polishing but i doubt it will ever be perfect again. hell the progress pics with just a wash, bar and hand wax looks way better. if "good enough" is ok with you, go for it! otherwise, you gotta figure out if you want to spend hours and $$$$ polishing paint that you will have stripped and resprayed again soon.
#59
FormerVendor
Ok that doesn't look to bad IMO. My ?? is when is the last time the truck has actually seen a buff, polish+ wax?? I know how black is, to be honest a negleted black paint job can look like *** in a week...You have already pulled a ton of oxidizers out via clay bar, the paint is smooth now no???Next is to get the rest or ALOT of the finer scratches out, is to get a mild cutting compound, a wool pad.. Buff it on about 14-1600 rpms( if you not fam with it have a shop do it) That will bring alot more of the scratches out.. After you finish that wipe it down with good clean cotton. Follow that with a good finishing compound and foam pad. after that wipe clean, wax it really good. Should bring the paint back very nice.. Black is a bitch, I have had a black vehicles for a long time. So do that and see what happens. I bet you will be happy with it..
All that damage would EASILY be wiped out with a PC and some mild polishes. No need to get out a bazooka to swat flies ya know?
#60
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I wouldn't recommend a rotary buffer and wool pad + compound to a guy who had never even handled a claybar up until this point. He'd be down to bare metal in a few minutes.
All that damage would EASILY be wiped out with a PC and some mild polishes. No need to get out a bazooka to swat flies ya know?
All that damage would EASILY be wiped out with a PC and some mild polishes. No need to get out a bazooka to swat flies ya know?