Painted dash advice anyone??
before I ruin it lol
01-26-2010, 11:36 AM
#2
On The Tree
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
fairly simple, just time consuming, i started out sanding the texture off of the plastic pieces using 150 grit sand paper with an air sander (DA).
once smooth, clean off and spray with a plastic adhesive promoter, I used the stuff in a spray can made by BULLYDOG i believe is the name.
then i sprayed an epoxy primer and sanded it with 600 grit to get rid of the imperfections.
after that i sealed it and then started spraying the basecoat of the color i selected.
after at least 2-3 coats of paint were applied, i sprayed 2-3 coats of clearcoat.
If necessary, sand with 1000 grit and buff until it is to your liking.
Ill try posting some pictures of my interior soon.
once smooth, clean off and spray with a plastic adhesive promoter, I used the stuff in a spray can made by BULLYDOG i believe is the name.
then i sprayed an epoxy primer and sanded it with 600 grit to get rid of the imperfections.
after that i sealed it and then started spraying the basecoat of the color i selected.
after at least 2-3 coats of paint were applied, i sprayed 2-3 coats of clearcoat.
If necessary, sand with 1000 grit and buff until it is to your liking.
Ill try posting some pictures of my interior soon.
01-26-2010, 02:26 PM
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Stephenville, Tx
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah I knew it involved lots of sanding time, just not sure what grit sandpaper to use when. i'm kinda a newbie when it comes to paint. pics would be great
01-26-2010, 08:33 PM
#4
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tahlequah/Norman, OK
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't painted my dash yet, but have painted trucks before so I have a bit of a background. If you have never used a pneumatic paint gun to apply a basecoat/clearcoat type of application then I would probably steer clear of that. The art of applying clearcoat is somewhat tricky; I can tell you that If I hadn't been shown by a professional, I would have made many more time consuming mistakes than I have. Not to mention the mixing aspect and the price of the materials. I'm pretty sure you can buy clearcoat in a spray can that may work fine, but I have no personal experience. If so, that may be the most simple and easiest option.
As for sandpaper, I would probably start out with 220 grit block sanding the flat portions of the your dash pieces, and feather edging the portions that have shape to them with your hand. Once your finished with that, come back across everything with 600 grit to clean any rough spots up. Once your finished with that, prep all your surfaces well with paint prep/degreaser and then begin shooting primer. Take your time with the prepping aspect, however, as it plays a crucial part in the adhesion process. After 3 or so coats of primer, I would go back over everything with 1000 grit. If everything looks good and you are satisfied with the way it looks, prep again and begin shooting sealer (keep in mind that primer is a filler used to fill minor imperfections in the surface before the basecoat is applied, similar to bondo just on a much smaller scale. Apply it thicker where it's needed, then sand everything down and see how it looks; Apply more coats if needed) Follow that with your base coat/clear coat, or whatever means of paint you decide.
If you choose a basecoat/clearcoat process, realize that you WILL have to wetsand and buff each piece you paint to make it look decent. You WILL have runs in the clearcoat, not to mention orange peel. Therefore, you will also need 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper, 3M buffing compound, and an orbital buffer with applicator pad to clean everything up professionally.
As for sandpaper, I would probably start out with 220 grit block sanding the flat portions of the your dash pieces, and feather edging the portions that have shape to them with your hand. Once your finished with that, come back across everything with 600 grit to clean any rough spots up. Once your finished with that, prep all your surfaces well with paint prep/degreaser and then begin shooting primer. Take your time with the prepping aspect, however, as it plays a crucial part in the adhesion process. After 3 or so coats of primer, I would go back over everything with 1000 grit. If everything looks good and you are satisfied with the way it looks, prep again and begin shooting sealer (keep in mind that primer is a filler used to fill minor imperfections in the surface before the basecoat is applied, similar to bondo just on a much smaller scale. Apply it thicker where it's needed, then sand everything down and see how it looks; Apply more coats if needed) Follow that with your base coat/clear coat, or whatever means of paint you decide.
If you choose a basecoat/clearcoat process, realize that you WILL have to wetsand and buff each piece you paint to make it look decent. You WILL have runs in the clearcoat, not to mention orange peel. Therefore, you will also need 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper, 3M buffing compound, and an orbital buffer with applicator pad to clean everything up professionally.
01-27-2010, 02:56 PM
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Stephenville, Tx
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't painted my dash yet, but have painted trucks before so I have a bit of a background. If you have never used a pneumatic paint gun to apply a basecoat/clearcoat type of application then I would probably steer clear of that. The art of applying clearcoat is somewhat tricky; I can tell you that If I hadn't been shown by a professional, I would have made many more time consuming mistakes than I have. Not to mention the mixing aspect and the price of the materials. I'm pretty sure you can buy clearcoat in a spray can that may work fine, but I have no personal experience. If so, that may be the most simple and easiest option.
As for sandpaper, I would probably start out with 220 grit block sanding the flat portions of the your dash pieces, and feather edging the portions that have shape to them with your hand. Once your finished with that, come back across everything with 600 grit to clean any rough spots up. Once your finished with that, prep all your surfaces well with paint prep/degreaser and then begin shooting primer. Take your time with the prepping aspect, however, as it plays a crucial part in the adhesion process. After 3 or so coats of primer, I would go back over everything with 1000 grit. If everything looks good and you are satisfied with the way it looks, prep again and begin shooting sealer (keep in mind that primer is a filler used to fill minor imperfections in the surface before the basecoat is applied, similar to bondo just on a much smaller scale. Apply it thicker where it's needed, then sand everything down and see how it looks; Apply more coats if needed) Follow that with your base coat/clear coat, or whatever means of paint you decide.
If you choose a basecoat/clearcoat process, realize that you WILL have to wetsand and buff each piece you paint to make it look decent. You WILL have runs in the clearcoat, not to mention orange peel. Therefore, you will also need 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper, 3M buffing compound, and an orbital buffer with applicator pad to clean everything up professionally.
As for sandpaper, I would probably start out with 220 grit block sanding the flat portions of the your dash pieces, and feather edging the portions that have shape to them with your hand. Once your finished with that, come back across everything with 600 grit to clean any rough spots up. Once your finished with that, prep all your surfaces well with paint prep/degreaser and then begin shooting primer. Take your time with the prepping aspect, however, as it plays a crucial part in the adhesion process. After 3 or so coats of primer, I would go back over everything with 1000 grit. If everything looks good and you are satisfied with the way it looks, prep again and begin shooting sealer (keep in mind that primer is a filler used to fill minor imperfections in the surface before the basecoat is applied, similar to bondo just on a much smaller scale. Apply it thicker where it's needed, then sand everything down and see how it looks; Apply more coats if needed) Follow that with your base coat/clear coat, or whatever means of paint you decide.
If you choose a basecoat/clearcoat process, realize that you WILL have to wetsand and buff each piece you paint to make it look decent. You WILL have runs in the clearcoat, not to mention orange peel. Therefore, you will also need 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper, 3M buffing compound, and an orbital buffer with applicator pad to clean everything up professionally.
01-28-2010, 01:48 AM
#7
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tahlequah/Norman, OK
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
get a bucket full of water and wet/dry paper. I also like to take a 20oz. pop bottle and drill a hole about the size of an average screw driver in the cap. Fill it with water and squirt it on the surface keeping everything wet as you sand. Start sanding, keeping everything wet. The surface will start to turn dull where you sand. Wipe the surface dry occasionally so you can see your progress. After you get all the imperfections out of the clear, and everything looks shitty dull, get your buffer out. Squirt the 3M compound on the sanded surface and start buffing at a low speed, moving the buffer around over the surface. You will immediately see the results as the buffing compound will begin to bring the shine out of the dull sanded areas. Continue until you are satisfied with the results.
Be sure not to put pressure on the buffer, or hold it in one area for more than a couple seconds, because most buffing compound has abrasives in it and you will burn the clear if your not careful. Also be very gentle around the edges or curved portions with the sandpaper AND buffer. It is very easy to sand or buff completely through the clear on high spots or edges. Take your time with the project in your prep work and sanding, as well as finishing touches with the buffer, and your work will pay off.
Be sure not to put pressure on the buffer, or hold it in one area for more than a couple seconds, because most buffing compound has abrasives in it and you will burn the clear if your not careful. Also be very gentle around the edges or curved portions with the sandpaper AND buffer. It is very easy to sand or buff completely through the clear on high spots or edges. Take your time with the project in your prep work and sanding, as well as finishing touches with the buffer, and your work will pay off.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
someotherguy
STEREO & ELECTRONICS
10
10-05-2015 12:49 PM
