Replacing In-Seat Seatbelts
04-23-2005, 09:37 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacing In-Seat Seatbelts
I did a search to see if this was on here or not...
If its somewhere, and I didnt see it, I apologize for the duplicate post.
(*My disclaimer - This is how I do mine. Only use this as a generic guide, as this is a safety item - Use at your own risk. If you dont think you can do it, take it to a certified mechanic.*)
OK.... If you have a Hyperactive Dog like mine....then you've already experienced the dog chewing off your seatbelts, and watching the belt fly into and dissapearing in the seat.
You can perform the repair in the vehicle, but I pulled mine out to clean the carpeting, and make it a bit easier to do. From what I have heard from the dealer, its much easier if you pull them out.
Heres how I pulled my CLOTH seats out, and did it myself.
Info before you Begin.
I have found that if you decide to get belts from the dealer, you will need the last 8 digits of your VIN, so that they can match color and type of belt.
The second question they may ask you is if you have "PRESS" molded into your seatbelt release button.
I prefer getting my seatbelts from the Dealership for these reasons:
1. on 1999 model year trucks, there was a recall for seatbelt retractors.
Getting it from the dealer will give you the updated parts.
2. Getting a safety item that will hold your butt in the event of a crash, knowing you have a NEW part.
3. You dont know what the junkyard belt has seen, as far as accident, etc.
For $70 Drivers, $85 passengers...its worth the peace of mind.
TOOLS:
1. Purchase an E-20 Torx socket. It's not a standard item. I had to order mine through Snap on Tools.
This is used for the Front Seat track Nuts.
2. Purchase an E-14 Torx socket, as you will need this for the Rear Seat Bolts. (This is a standard size, that you should be able to find E6-E16 sets)
3. Use a 1/4" socket for the upper plastic shield under the upholstry.
4. A Torx T-50 will assist you in removing the 2 bolts holding the belt into the seat frame.
5. Phillips #2 screwdriver
6. 18 MM Socket (For lap belt strap bolt)
7. Flatblade Screwdriver
Procedure:
1. Grab a cold drink, and a Candy Bar. Set at least 1 hour of time aside.
2. Using your Torx Sockets, remove the seat track bolts securing the seat to the floor. Slide the seat forward/back for clearance.
3. Remove the electrical connection for the seats, if applicable.
(On non-electric seats, there is a seatbelt switch connector.)
4. Fold the seat forward and lift seat straight up and out of truck.
5. Remove phillips screws out of entry handle, side handle, seat side trim screws (2) and one in the rear on the LH side of the track.
6. Gently bend rear portion of plastic cover out towards you, so you can gain access to the Lap belt Nut.
7. Remove Lap Belt Nut with Socket.
8. The Plastic Oval trim piece at the top of the seat, is simply snapped into place. To remove, take a flat blade screwdriver, and pry gently. Pry spots work best in the 2-3PM location. Work gently so you dont rip your upholstry.
Dont worry if you break the plastic trim piece, another is included with the new belt.
9. Your Seat upholstry is fastened by long plastic tonge and groove fastners.
You simply roll the joint, and it will disengage. There are 2 small plastic fasteners, one on each side of the back of the seat, and one long one which runs along the bottom rear of the seat.
10. Once you get the fasteners undone, slowly start to work the bottom upholstry skin up towards the headrest. Please note the Styrofoam should NOT move, and the cardboard backing on the back of the seat should stay put as well.
11. The Grooves in the seat cushion are formed with Velcro. Once youve freed the seat skin a bit, work your hand up by the seams, and gently pull the velcro and fabric apart. Use caution so you dont tear the cushion. Go slow.
12. Once the Velcro and fabric are separated, slowly work the fabric up the seat, towards the head rest. You Don't have to completely take it all the way off. Your goal is to reach the seatbelt extractor area.
13. Slide the remaining fabric over the black plastic cover, so it is out of your way. You will need to remove this black cover with the 1/4" socket. There are 2 bolts. One on each side. Use a small ratchet to remove these.
When you remove the bolts, Pull straight up. NOTE - take a look at the underside of the plastic cap. See the 2 grooves, where the screws went through? Take note - I'll tell you a trick later that will save some time.
14. Remove the top Torx bolt with the T-50 bit.
15. The Cardboard cover will swing out towards the passenger side of the vehicle, to reveal the extractor unit. It's about 26" long. This will give you access to remove the Lower T-50 Torx Bolt.
16. Place your new extractor unit in place of the old one, and re-fasten Torx T50 bolts securely.
17. Route belt, buckle, and trim piece through the top of the plastic tophat we took off earlier. Then Place the tophat back in its original position. There are 2 spade lugs this will seat on. If you try to slide it straight down, it will not go. Looking at the front of the seat, place the cap on the top of the seatbelt extractor, and tilt it forward first. Let the metal tang stick out of the front of the plastic piece, then Rock it back. it should lign up, so that you can secure the 2 1/4" screws back in place. (The metal tang in front stops you from sliding it straight down.
18. Start sliding the fabric down over the seat again, slowly working side to side.
19. when you get about half way down your seat, stop, and route your belt through the hole in the fabric, where the seatbelt would come out (Top of seat extractor area).
20. Continue working fabric the rest of the way down, and lightly pull to snug the cover into place.
21. Tuck the front bottom of the seat cover towards the back, so that you can re-latch the tongue and groove plastic. Do the likewise for the 2 side plastic locks. These you kind of roll the fabric over, and it snaps in.
22. Once fabric is in position and locked down, snap your plastic exterior belt trim piece in place, onto the metal tangs.
23. Route the lap belt buckle down the seat slit. Slide plate over stud and Orient the steel plate against the tab stop, so you get the proper angle for the belt. Fasten the nut to factory specs, or good and snug.
(I have found Label side towards you, makes for a straight belt, not twisted)
24. Re-install handles, and trim piece screws (3) with the phillips screwdriver.
25. To Re-adhere the Velcro to the seat once you are done, Trace the seam with your fingers, and press in. Run your hand down the seams, as they are sewn into the seat. Sitting in the seat once its installed will also help.
26. Re-install the seat into your truck with the Torx E-sockets, and tighten everything down with a torque wrench to factory specs.
27. Re-connect electrical connectors.
I hope this thread helps somoene out, as I had no help but exploration of my own.
Being ive done this Twice....ive grown quite familiar.
So no more leaving the Husky in the truck....
C
If its somewhere, and I didnt see it, I apologize for the duplicate post.
(*My disclaimer - This is how I do mine. Only use this as a generic guide, as this is a safety item - Use at your own risk. If you dont think you can do it, take it to a certified mechanic.*)
OK.... If you have a Hyperactive Dog like mine....then you've already experienced the dog chewing off your seatbelts, and watching the belt fly into and dissapearing in the seat.
You can perform the repair in the vehicle, but I pulled mine out to clean the carpeting, and make it a bit easier to do. From what I have heard from the dealer, its much easier if you pull them out.
Heres how I pulled my CLOTH seats out, and did it myself.
Info before you Begin.
I have found that if you decide to get belts from the dealer, you will need the last 8 digits of your VIN, so that they can match color and type of belt.
The second question they may ask you is if you have "PRESS" molded into your seatbelt release button.
I prefer getting my seatbelts from the Dealership for these reasons:
1. on 1999 model year trucks, there was a recall for seatbelt retractors.
Getting it from the dealer will give you the updated parts.
2. Getting a safety item that will hold your butt in the event of a crash, knowing you have a NEW part.
3. You dont know what the junkyard belt has seen, as far as accident, etc.
For $70 Drivers, $85 passengers...its worth the peace of mind.
TOOLS:
1. Purchase an E-20 Torx socket. It's not a standard item. I had to order mine through Snap on Tools.
This is used for the Front Seat track Nuts.
2. Purchase an E-14 Torx socket, as you will need this for the Rear Seat Bolts. (This is a standard size, that you should be able to find E6-E16 sets)
3. Use a 1/4" socket for the upper plastic shield under the upholstry.
4. A Torx T-50 will assist you in removing the 2 bolts holding the belt into the seat frame.
5. Phillips #2 screwdriver
6. 18 MM Socket (For lap belt strap bolt)
7. Flatblade Screwdriver
Procedure:
1. Grab a cold drink, and a Candy Bar. Set at least 1 hour of time aside.
2. Using your Torx Sockets, remove the seat track bolts securing the seat to the floor. Slide the seat forward/back for clearance.
3. Remove the electrical connection for the seats, if applicable.
(On non-electric seats, there is a seatbelt switch connector.)
4. Fold the seat forward and lift seat straight up and out of truck.
5. Remove phillips screws out of entry handle, side handle, seat side trim screws (2) and one in the rear on the LH side of the track.
6. Gently bend rear portion of plastic cover out towards you, so you can gain access to the Lap belt Nut.
7. Remove Lap Belt Nut with Socket.
8. The Plastic Oval trim piece at the top of the seat, is simply snapped into place. To remove, take a flat blade screwdriver, and pry gently. Pry spots work best in the 2-3PM location. Work gently so you dont rip your upholstry.
Dont worry if you break the plastic trim piece, another is included with the new belt.
9. Your Seat upholstry is fastened by long plastic tonge and groove fastners.
You simply roll the joint, and it will disengage. There are 2 small plastic fasteners, one on each side of the back of the seat, and one long one which runs along the bottom rear of the seat.
10. Once you get the fasteners undone, slowly start to work the bottom upholstry skin up towards the headrest. Please note the Styrofoam should NOT move, and the cardboard backing on the back of the seat should stay put as well.
11. The Grooves in the seat cushion are formed with Velcro. Once youve freed the seat skin a bit, work your hand up by the seams, and gently pull the velcro and fabric apart. Use caution so you dont tear the cushion. Go slow.
12. Once the Velcro and fabric are separated, slowly work the fabric up the seat, towards the head rest. You Don't have to completely take it all the way off. Your goal is to reach the seatbelt extractor area.
13. Slide the remaining fabric over the black plastic cover, so it is out of your way. You will need to remove this black cover with the 1/4" socket. There are 2 bolts. One on each side. Use a small ratchet to remove these.
When you remove the bolts, Pull straight up. NOTE - take a look at the underside of the plastic cap. See the 2 grooves, where the screws went through? Take note - I'll tell you a trick later that will save some time.
14. Remove the top Torx bolt with the T-50 bit.
15. The Cardboard cover will swing out towards the passenger side of the vehicle, to reveal the extractor unit. It's about 26" long. This will give you access to remove the Lower T-50 Torx Bolt.
16. Place your new extractor unit in place of the old one, and re-fasten Torx T50 bolts securely.
17. Route belt, buckle, and trim piece through the top of the plastic tophat we took off earlier. Then Place the tophat back in its original position. There are 2 spade lugs this will seat on. If you try to slide it straight down, it will not go. Looking at the front of the seat, place the cap on the top of the seatbelt extractor, and tilt it forward first. Let the metal tang stick out of the front of the plastic piece, then Rock it back. it should lign up, so that you can secure the 2 1/4" screws back in place. (The metal tang in front stops you from sliding it straight down.
18. Start sliding the fabric down over the seat again, slowly working side to side.
19. when you get about half way down your seat, stop, and route your belt through the hole in the fabric, where the seatbelt would come out (Top of seat extractor area).
20. Continue working fabric the rest of the way down, and lightly pull to snug the cover into place.
21. Tuck the front bottom of the seat cover towards the back, so that you can re-latch the tongue and groove plastic. Do the likewise for the 2 side plastic locks. These you kind of roll the fabric over, and it snaps in.
22. Once fabric is in position and locked down, snap your plastic exterior belt trim piece in place, onto the metal tangs.
23. Route the lap belt buckle down the seat slit. Slide plate over stud and Orient the steel plate against the tab stop, so you get the proper angle for the belt. Fasten the nut to factory specs, or good and snug.
(I have found Label side towards you, makes for a straight belt, not twisted)
24. Re-install handles, and trim piece screws (3) with the phillips screwdriver.
25. To Re-adhere the Velcro to the seat once you are done, Trace the seam with your fingers, and press in. Run your hand down the seams, as they are sewn into the seat. Sitting in the seat once its installed will also help.
26. Re-install the seat into your truck with the Torx E-sockets, and tighten everything down with a torque wrench to factory specs.
27. Re-connect electrical connectors.
I hope this thread helps somoene out, as I had no help but exploration of my own.
Being ive done this Twice....ive grown quite familiar.
So no more leaving the Husky in the truck....
C
04-24-2005, 03:09 PM
#2
TECH Regular
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
very very good write up, directions seem good and i'll def use if i ever bust a belt. a few pics would be pretty good though.
i'm about to remove my front seats to install the katzkin. are those parts the only way u could see to take off the seats? i took a glance at it and it looked alot more difficult than removing the back seats. hopefully i can get this from lowes or something...
Originally Posted by TrickyTransAm
TOOLS:
1. Purchase an E-20 Torx socket. It's not a standard item. I had to order mine through Snap on Tools.
This is used for the Front Seat track Nuts.
2. Purchase an E-14 Torx socket, as you will need this for the Rear Seat Bolts. (This is a standard size, that you should be able to find E6-E16 sets)
1. Purchase an E-20 Torx socket. It's not a standard item. I had to order mine through Snap on Tools.
This is used for the Front Seat track Nuts.
2. Purchase an E-14 Torx socket, as you will need this for the Rear Seat Bolts. (This is a standard size, that you should be able to find E6-E16 sets)
04-24-2005, 06:42 PM
#3
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Glad that you liked, and Hope that it helps ya out.
My Description is for the Front Seats. I should edit and specify.
Mine's a standard cab, so not sure how the rear seats come out.
Is the Belt through the seat, like in the front? Or on the sidepanel?
The Front seats might look a bit intimidating, but if you take your time, You'll find that theyre not so bad.
I would love to post pics...but I dont know how to upload them to here.
I dont have pics of the drivers - but my Passenger replacement belt is due in on Monday, and I will take pics of the dissasembly, or possibly short videos on how to "Fold" the tongue and groove plastic clips.
I'll check with my ISP to see if ive got any webspace available.
C
My Description is for the Front Seats. I should edit and specify.
Mine's a standard cab, so not sure how the rear seats come out.
Is the Belt through the seat, like in the front? Or on the sidepanel?
The Front seats might look a bit intimidating, but if you take your time, You'll find that theyre not so bad.
I would love to post pics...but I dont know how to upload them to here.
I dont have pics of the drivers - but my Passenger replacement belt is due in on Monday, and I will take pics of the dissasembly, or possibly short videos on how to "Fold" the tongue and groove plastic clips.
I'll check with my ISP to see if ive got any webspace available.
C
04-26-2005, 05:22 PM
#5
Teching In
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BigKID
I forget the sizes but you can use 12-pt sockets instead of the Torx tools to remove the seats.
But I'll second the use of sockets instead of E-torx; at least that worked for me.
04-27-2005, 02:59 PM
#6
TECH Regular
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ya i used a 1/2 inch 8pt socket for the front rear bolts. and then i went and paid a place 5 bucks to let me use an e-20 socket. and then i got some new 12mm bolts that are hex top to go back in...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
legerwn
Tuning, Diagnostics, Electronics, and Wiring
56
11-15-2015 10:21 PM