When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i don't know. Hughes supplies 8.8 bolts the have a lower profile head that clears but the ones they sent me have a 7/16 long shank which are a little too short. They are sending out longer ones with the new converter.
Right on. I was curious cuz I have ARP p/n 230-7305 in my Summit cart. I've got a yank converter waiting to go on myself.
Those look to be the same exact ones just a pack of 6 instead of a pack of 3 that I ordered but if you have a dished flexplate the heads may clear the back of the oil pan. I have a flat flexplate
So for speed density wiring, I'm pulling the tan and blk/tan for my IAT but the rest of the maf plug on the harness side just gets tucked away back in the harness?
IAT location, I have two already tapped, one just before the throttle body and one in the back of the Holley hi ram. Now could the big aluminum intake get heat soaked giving the IAT a higher reading or would the air passing through the heat soaked intake manifold actually raise the air temp?
So for speed density wiring, I'm pulling the tan and blk/tan for my IAT but the rest of the maf plug on the harness side just gets tucked away back in the harness?
IAT location, I have two already tapped, one just before the throttle body and one in the back of the Holley hi ram. Now could the big aluminum intake get heat soaked giving the IAT a higher reading or would the air passing through the heat soaked intake manifold actually raise the air temp?
I just tried to look at my wires for the iat sensor. But I have cut my plug off and tucked the wiring into the harness years ago. Lol.
I put my iat sensor in the charge pipe just before the throttle body but after my meth nozzles so that the sensor would read the temp drop from the meth better. You can put the iat in the intake and yes it will get heat soaked. But it won't matter. It will only read high for a short while when you first fire it up. As soon as you start driving it will cool off.
That's why it is kinda nice to have a meth system setup with a primer or purge button. It cools down the air charge quite a bit.
Haven't updated in a while but got some stuff done here and there. May be on hold for a couple weeks due to retiring from the Navy, moving to Oxnard/Ventura Ca, and selling a house. Soon as I get settled in my new location I plan on hitting the garage hard and finishing this truck up within 2-3 months. Still need to buy and build the fuel system, hp tuners, fab exhaust, rebuild A-arms and install coilovers, measure and have front and rear drive shafts made, mount oil/trans/PS coolers, and a ton of other odds and ends.
Speartech's 4l80e Input speed sensor harness pinned into the ECM All other unused sensor pins removed, Maf, knock, evap purge and evap vent. Coolant level sensor will just be grounded out. Rebuilt the np149 transfer case with all new seals, bearings, case saver and installed Time2kill's re-splinned input gear for the 4l80e. I have a ton a pics throughout the rebuild process if anyone has any questions or needs referencing. Got my Hughes 4l80e installed along with the transfer case and cross member. All to be removed to check trans pump ears for damage since I'm a noob and installing torque converters. I think it will check good but want to be sure. When bolting the trans to block, the converter was just about flush with the flexplate so not a whole lot of pressure was pushing the converter snout on the trans pump ears but we shall see.
Intercooler fitment pics. After I move and get settled in the hood is betting replaced with a Reflexion cowl hood with paint for the hood, roof, bumper, grill and mirror caps.
No limit straps with these coilovers. It's sitting 3" lower right now then what I intend to run. Need to swap out my DJM arms for the stockers after I rebuild them with poly bushings and Moog ball joints.
08-07-2017 | 08:51 PM
