FORCED INDUCTION Turbos | Superchargers | Intercoolers | H2O/Meth Injection

2014 Sierra RCSB Z71 On3 Turbo

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Old 09-10-2018, 07:14 PM
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I need to get under there this weekend and look at options. Right now it is KILLING me because at part throttle it basically sounds like a crappy exhaust leak. Worst part is I might actually have an exhaust leak but might not notice it. Going to contact the company about those WG mufflers and see what they are all about (really need the length to see if it will fit).

Where the WG is on the kit, I am worried about it needing a lot of piping to get back into the exhaust post-turbo since WG dumps right on the (outer)side of the frame. I'm sure it can be done.
Old 09-11-2018, 05:47 AM
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Skip the muffler and route it to the dp.
Old 09-12-2018, 06:48 PM
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A lot of people recirc it into the down pipe. Personally I love the sound of an open WG dump. Never heard one sound like an exhaust leak though.
Old 09-13-2018, 01:25 PM
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Got mine back after injector install and tune. Made 482hp/512trq on 4 lbs. We haven't turned it up at all so that spring pressure of the ON3 WG. They requested I change plugs from the ones you are using to brisk plugs. Something about the plug retarding timing because of the longer tip. (If I'm understanding this right). He was having to throw more timing than he should have been. Apparently he sees it a lot. So next step is to change the plugs and take it back to see what its got. Also the LT1 injectors have a ton left so I see easily hitting upper 500s or more on 93.

Also used copper RTV instead of gaskets and its doing great.

I used a 12v fuse in the dash for my gauges. I can tell you which one when I get home.

Old 09-13-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Choda
Skip the muffler and route it to the dp.
I want to go that route but also just finished doing the whole ceramic thing on the DP. Any reason I couldn't route it into the first section of exhaust pipe right past the DP? I know it's more pipe but there is more room back there.

Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
A lot of people recirc it into the down pipe. Personally I love the sound of an open WG dump. Never heard one sound like an exhaust leak though.
I am referring to times when the turbo is well-spooled, and I am lightly accelerating at part throttle. WG is open and I seem to get a sound that hits my ears like a bad collector gasket leak(in N/A vehicle). Probably being more particular about it than I should be but it really does bug the crap out of me. Or maybe it's just a massive exhaust leak. Hopefully have some time to get under it this weekend and confirm.

Originally Posted by Nathan Baader
Got mine back after injector install and tune. Made 482hp/512trq on 4 lbs. We haven't turned it up at all so that spring pressure of the ON3 WG. They requested I change plugs from the ones you are using to brisk plugs. Something about the plug retarding timing because of the longer tip. (If I'm understanding this right). He was having to throw more timing than he should have been. Apparently he sees it a lot. So next step is to change the plugs and take it back to see what its got. Also the LT1 injectors have a ton left so I see easily hitting upper 500s or more on 93.

Also used copper RTV instead of gaskets and its doing great.

I used a 12v fuse in the dash for my gauges. I can tell you which one when I get home.
That's some nice numbers! Is that a L83 or L86? Mods other than turbo kit? What kind of dyno? 2WD or 4WD? Tires? Not chasing numbers here; just curious, really. I spoke with On3 about the Brisk plugs and they did say good things about them but stopped short of hard-selling me on them. Let me know the results; I'm not against throwing a few bucks at some good plugs.

I think I explained my electrical need incorrectly. I *think* used the trailer fuse for the lead on the gauge that tells it you have the lights on and therefore dims the gauge backlight(at night?). After seeing all the other folks with trailer brake wiring warnings, pretty sure I just need to take it all apart and clean it. Still happy to know what fuse(s) you used.

I've got LT4 injectors I was going to throw in the L86 on the stand so I might swap from the L83 to the L86(same or very close to LT1 from what I understand) injectors and gain some headroom.
Old 09-14-2018, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Mercier
That's some nice numbers! Is that a L83 or L86? Mods other than turbo kit? What kind of dyno? 2WD or 4WD? Tires? Not chasing numbers here; just curious, really. I spoke with On3 about the Brisk plugs and they did say good things about them but stopped short of hard-selling me on them. Let me know the results; I'm not against throwing a few bucks at some good plugs.

I think I explained my electrical need incorrectly. I *think* used the trailer fuse for the lead on the gauge that tells it you have the lights on and therefore dims the gauge backlight(at night?). After seeing all the other folks with trailer brake wiring warnings, pretty sure I just need to take it all apart and clean it. Still happy to know what fuse(s) you used.

I've got LT4 injectors I was going to throw in the L86 on the stand so I might swap from the L83 to the L86(same or very close to LT1 from what I understand) injectors and gain some headroom.
L83 with the 78/75 turbo, 3.5" exhaust all the way back, and LT1 injectors. I have a meth system installed but I'm not using it. I'll probably only spray at the top end to prevent knock but the tune wont be meth dependent. More for my piece of mind. Truck is 4wd on a Mustang dyno. Stock 265 tires.

Your LT4 injectors flow way more fuel than the LT1's. You'll probably make more power than you're comfortable with on those. Good to have the head room though. You'll need them for your L86. Only reason I went LT1 is because I got a new OEM set for $150 compared to $400 for the LT4 and I didn't want to do the high side pump.

I don't have the WG issue. Probably because my turbo isn't ball bearing and a little bigger. I don't really make noticeable boost unless I'm trying to. Or my truck is just really loud and I cant hear it. Need to fine tune the exhaust for sure.

Brisk plugs are quite a bit different. 1/4" or so shorter tip. I'll be interested to see the difference. I'm not looking forward to changing them. I'm afraid Ill have to pull the whole manifold off just to have the room to get to them. Part of me wants to procrastinate and enjoy the truck for awhile because I'm dreading it.

Fuse I used is #30 under the left panel on the dash. Its a 15amp. My AEM gauge doesn't have a DIM feature though
Old 09-14-2018, 05:25 PM
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Last night suddenly got "Engine Power Reduced" and a slew of throttle lever position circuit x too x and y too y. I either can't clear them or they're just immediately coming back. Picked up a pedal assy and throttle body from the dealer just in case and guess I'm spending my evening cleaning grounds. Definitely pouting at this point.

At least the 6.2 has the harness still installed so I could get pics of the location of all the engine grounds. Not sure I can get to all of them though. :sad:





Old 09-14-2018, 05:39 PM
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Pull the coupler at the throttle body and make sure no debris got in there. I had one come in a couple weeks ago acting real goofy and found a cigarette wrapper in it the blade. May not be it but it's a quick easy check and you've been all over it lately so something may have gotten somewhere it don't belong. Maybe.
Old 09-14-2018, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Pull the coupler at the throttle body and make sure no debris got in there. I had one come in a couple weeks ago acting real goofy and found a cigarette wrapper in it the blade. May not be it but it's a quick easy check and you've been all over it lately so something may have gotten somewhere it don't belong. Maybe.
You were pretty close! (whole TB)

After I cleaned up the pedal/TB connectors and the body ground underneath the driver door(bolt broke and had to be drilled/replaced--FUN), I pulled the plug off the old pedal and just plugged new pedal in on the floor. That didn't change anything so then I laid the new throttle body on the intake and plugged it in. After a quick reset, no codes. So plugged the factory pedal back in and installed new TB. Cranked right up with no issues AFAIK.

I will probably clean the old one up and test it out to see if it is salvageable but it's really the day it cost me that's the hard hit. At least it wasn't damage of any kind. As you can see from the codes, I still need to get the LT4 MAP installed/tuned.



Old 09-18-2018, 04:10 PM
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Exhaust leak is back. Resisting urge to set it on fire. Going to let it sit in the shop a few days then come back with an inspection camera later in the week and hope it's just something I didn't line up right and not the damn manifold gasket again. The manifold was straight..but I can't remember if I checked the head.



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