Silver05Rst

If i went the LQ9/LQ4 route, does anyone know (other than ebay) where i can find an iron block because ALL the nearest junkyards dont have any 6.0s just 5.3s and 4.8s.

OneQwikSS

iTrader: (8)

craigslist or racingjunk.com i mean really even if you've gotta pay to have one shipped off this site you'd be on the up & up

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

I was gonna suggest talkin or PM'g Pat too, but i had to go to bed, so figured I'd post that in the morning.

Seems like a really cool guy.

Whether it's Quik or not, don't be afraid of a 2 hr. drive to have tuning done or get a motor. But it sounds like u either work too much to make the drive at this time or work is unstable. Do it on a day off or vacation, it should only be part of a day.
Assuming it's done right, you'll be happier w/. its' overall performance & manners. Or even sourcing a block from a yard.

Oh ya, what no LS1's in yards near you? While not as many cubes as a 6L, it'll get ya some displacement. There's gotta be a bunch of LS1 sittin in yards everywhere.

I agree that I wouldn't put that kind of power to that tranny, while some may have used or gotten away w/. a 5 spd. sooner or later, I think you're gonna hammer it good, & byebye.

You can't build a bottom end for $7k? Seriously?!?

If I was building a 370 & threw the best or some really good parts at it, it should be doable.

2004RST, let's say I did a $7k bottom end:
Pistons: best u could get - $950 at most, being generous but $600-900 would be more the norm.

Rods:$600-1400 forged to billet

Crank:Stock LS could work, but say $2200 at extreme end.

That leaves $2500 if u used the highest price(s) for machining, rings, gaskets, fluids. From that say $1500 for machine work depending on wahtever, so that could swing 1 way or the other, & blow things outta whack budgetwise. Or help.

And not sure if u have block. If LSX, bets are off. I may've left out studs or cam if ya wanna include that, but how bad of a beast are u building?

Silver05Rst

-I work full time for my fathers company driving semi-tankers over the road so im usually gone all week long and when i get home on the weekend i help him in the garage doing maintence on them. He's got 11 semi's and 16 trailers so needless to say i dont have alot of free time lol ... which is why its hard for me to get down to quik or trust me, i wouldnt even be asking about it, it would already be there lol.

-Not sure about the LS1 blocks. Just asked about the 6.0's.

-As for my tranny... yea, im up crick without a paddle... I was just cruise'n around with my son today and i feel my clutch is starting to go so i know im DEFINITLY going to have to put the T-56 into the budget. Other than finish line anyone know where i could get one for a decent price. Maybe even get a kit with a driveshaft and clutch kit with it?

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha on the OTR job.

LS1 blocks would be 346/7 cu in., so you're only down ~20 cubes. And u could get 1 that's alum block to save some weight up front or build as a stroker. That aside, if you're already havin clutch issues at curent power level, sooner or later, that's gonna need to be addressed. Probably sooner.
So I'd look for a T56 now & already plan on that being part of your budget.
FLT builds great trannies, better than most. I must say, I love mine, altho it's a 4L65E.

When it comes to trannies, I look at durability before prices.

Look over the stickies or do a search on here on 5 spd to T56; I think that'll help. You've already got 5 spd stuff like pedals & such, so it's not as hard (or as expensive) as goin from an auto. - stick.
I know some on here have done this 5M to 6M swap.
Also, if it's some conversion parts like that, what little there may / may not be, Speed Engineering is a sponsor, so maybe they can hook u up as an option. Not sure how much they do w/. the manual side of things but I know they offer X-members & parts for goin from 4L60E / 65E to an 80E. Just a thought.

OneQwikSS

iTrader: (8)

lol i've got an iron 6.0....the bottom end i'm lookin at from texas speed is ~$5k...dragonslayer crank..carrillo billet rods.....diamond pistons....including balancing & bearings i'm lookin at $4200....okay so if i had $7k sitting around i'd have my bottom end, cam, & heads....i still don't have $7k sitting around lmao...still wish i did....






@ Silver05RST yeah the factory clutch mated to the nvg's are pretty terrible lol...trust me get rid of the nvg...even if you went 4l80e it'd be a better route than keeping the nvg....but the most fun part of driving our trucks is the stick!

CHILLLLLL

iTrader: (3)

^ not for nothin, but I don't really see changing the crank unless you're gonna change the stroke. LS cranks are pretty effing tough. I'm using a stock LS crank in my truck and my setup isn't all that mild.


05RST, boost your ****. Stock block 4.8 with some top end work and a nice turbo would put you ~500-600 whp. build a 60e or an 80e and save yourself some coin. The 4.8 is underestimated...just my $.02

I'm looking to throw a snail on my truck sometime soon, possibly a PT6765 or a 76GTS. Being at 11.5:1 compression, 7 or 8 lbs should net me some pretty good numbers.

OneQwikSS

iTrader: (8)

Goin turbo 408 stroke

Silver05Rst

Ok, im really debating just to turbo and T-56 the sucker but as far as the turbo goes...

If i go with a 76mm turbo and a 38mm gate and a 50mm blowoff, what else do i NEED to put on there. Do i have to upgrade the fuel pump? etc...

OneQwikSS

iTrader: (8)

fuel pump i also believe oil pump...obviously heads/cam also which also means pushrods & you might as well upgrade springs....but i really don't know how long the factory rings can handle all that boost...another user FOOSE04 has a turbo 4.8 that he's putting out some crazy power with on the factory bottom end...you said this will be your DD though right?

EDIT: injectors also IMO