Regency RST Complete Write-Up Info
05-11-2008, 09:31 PM
#581
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16. This step is known as the infamous "drill mod". The same modification can be found in numerous publications and bulletin boards over the internet. If you don't want to perform the drill mod, which at this point would be a pitiful shame because it only takes a minute to do, skip this step and continue on to Step 18.
You should now be left with the steel braided line as shown in Figure 16. We took a small piece of cut up vacuum hose (anything thick and flexible will do), and wrapped it around the brass part of the fitting on the steel braided line. Then we clamped down on it with a set of vice-grips to hold the line while the restriction would be drilled (see Figure 17). Take a 1/8" drill bit and slowly, constantly bringing the bit back out and then back in to remove metal shavings as often as possible, drill out the ingenious in-line restriction (lots of sarcasm) that GM decided was best for your blessed muscle car. You will have to drill until you feel the drill bit pass through the restriction. The bit should freely move into the line before you are through drilling. The total distance drilled will be in the neighborhood of one inch (1"). Also, while drilling, be sure to keep the steel braided line as straight as possible so you don't drill through the line by accident. This sounds like a lot to accomplish, but common sense will carry you through. ;-)
17. Now that you have the restriction drilled out you will need to flush some fluid through the line in order to remove any excess shavings left behind. You will need to press the end of the quick connect fitting down while squirting fluid onto and in the quick connect fitting as shown in Figure 19. This will allow fluid to flow down the line and wash out any excess shavings keeping them from entering your hydraulic system as shown in Figure 20. Be sure you have a rag to catch the fluid and metal shavings at the end of the line. We used a bulb syringe which can be acquired for a few dollars at most any local auto parts store.
this is all part of an fbody writeup. the end of the braided line they are talkin about hooks to the fbody master, but it hooks to the truck slave.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
You should now be left with the steel braided line as shown in Figure 16. We took a small piece of cut up vacuum hose (anything thick and flexible will do), and wrapped it around the brass part of the fitting on the steel braided line. Then we clamped down on it with a set of vice-grips to hold the line while the restriction would be drilled (see Figure 17). Take a 1/8" drill bit and slowly, constantly bringing the bit back out and then back in to remove metal shavings as often as possible, drill out the ingenious in-line restriction (lots of sarcasm) that GM decided was best for your blessed muscle car. You will have to drill until you feel the drill bit pass through the restriction. The bit should freely move into the line before you are through drilling. The total distance drilled will be in the neighborhood of one inch (1"). Also, while drilling, be sure to keep the steel braided line as straight as possible so you don't drill through the line by accident. This sounds like a lot to accomplish, but common sense will carry you through. ;-)
17. Now that you have the restriction drilled out you will need to flush some fluid through the line in order to remove any excess shavings left behind. You will need to press the end of the quick connect fitting down while squirting fluid onto and in the quick connect fitting as shown in Figure 19. This will allow fluid to flow down the line and wash out any excess shavings keeping them from entering your hydraulic system as shown in Figure 20. Be sure you have a rag to catch the fluid and metal shavings at the end of the line. We used a bulb syringe which can be acquired for a few dollars at most any local auto parts store.
this is all part of an fbody writeup. the end of the braided line they are talkin about hooks to the fbody master, but it hooks to the truck slave.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
05-14-2008, 05:45 AM
#585
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Upgrading to Mcleod slave and Wilwood master cylinder
the wilwood master cylinder came as a part of the master and slave upgrade i purchased from mcleod. but it is a universal mount. i ended up sutting the threads off of the master and welding the stock shaft to it. your looking for a total length from the face of the mount to the end of the ball to be about 8 3/4". this is what it looked like.
this is the new slave.
so then i went to work on building a mounting bracket. and came up this.
then i removed the clutch pedal assembly and then removed the clutch pedal from the upper bracket.
i used a grinder with a cut off wheel and a dremel with a sanding drum to clean up the end of the bracket. till i could slip the mount through the bracket from the inside.
after the test fit i put the bracket back in the truck and then test fitted my mount.
i then test fit the master and it all looked good. i also used rtv to seal it in but it started to rain on my and i had to quit. so ill get some more pics up soon.
this is the new slave.
so then i went to work on building a mounting bracket. and came up this.
then i removed the clutch pedal assembly and then removed the clutch pedal from the upper bracket.
i used a grinder with a cut off wheel and a dremel with a sanding drum to clean up the end of the bracket. till i could slip the mount through the bracket from the inside.
after the test fit i put the bracket back in the truck and then test fitted my mount.
i then test fit the master and it all looked good. i also used rtv to seal it in but it started to rain on my and i had to quit. so ill get some more pics up soon.
Last edited by RED04REGENCYRST; 11-12-2008 at 10:29 PM.
05-14-2008, 09:29 AM
#586
hey so noone got back to me before i know that usually means the answer is no...but does anyone know the Regency Font? thanks
and i thought there was a downside to the drill mod...like the fact that you're letting air into you're hydraulic clutch system (not good last i heard)
and i thought there was a downside to the drill mod...like the fact that you're letting air into you're hydraulic clutch system (not good last i heard)
05-14-2008, 10:09 AM
#587
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if you are getting air in the system after the drill mod. you have damaged the internals of the line. there are 2 orifices that restrict the flow of fluid is all your removing.
05-14-2008, 08:47 PM
#590
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i have gone thru 4 slaves. the seal in the bottom of the slave keeps letting air in the system. so i kept losing the bleed on my slave, and after that seal breaks down once it wont bleed properly.