axisT6

iTrader: (3)

Probably as much as a spare.

FarmerBeau

iTrader: (2)

Here is a few questions for ya:

How thick is the axle tube that you welded those steel pieces to?

What is that tube made out of? (cast iron?)

How is the ride with it? I imagine the poly bushings would help it out some but i dont wanna have my *** bounced around durning daily driving.

An11secRanger

Yep, it's a good thing.
I've used what we call a "torque rod" set up, for years. I've usually used a two bar set up (one on each side). They consist of (different sizes from .75" to 1.5") chrome molly tube, mild steel heim joint rod ends (AKA: spherical rod ends), mild steel plates for brackets (you can purchase pre-formed pieces to fit the axle tubes) and grade 8 hardware . I no longer use chrome molly rod ends because they have broken in the past. And in any case, I recommend a safety loop of some kind. But, that's just me.
I've never weighed 'em, but my guess is about 15 pounds per set (for the bigger bar sets).
The ride isn't too bad. On some trucks, it's not even noticable (even with the solid ends). They can be adjusted, which "kinda" helps soften the ride, but at the cost of effectiveness.
They keys to smooth ride are the angle of the rod (needs to be the same as the leaf-springs' mounting points {from the springs' front mounting point to it's mounting point on the axle) and the length of the rod (needs to be, relatively, close to the length of the springs {from the springs' front mounting point to it's mounting point on the axle} but it's not critical). If it's right, it really is fairly close to stock ride.
Axle tube thickness is plenty thick to weld too. It's something I've never measured, but "about" .25" seems right.
This type of system can also be installed over the springs on many trucks.
An easy way to accomplish the same goal is Caltracs. They make 'em for full size GM trucks up to '03 that I know of. And they work.

axisT6

iTrader: (3)

It is the EXACT same axle you have. The axle tubes are DOM type, and are roughly 3/8" to 1/2 " thick. On my truck, the ride was fine. Like mentioned, the only difference was at take off. The reason for this is because the shackle at the end of the bar allows it to travel the same path as the axle when the suspension cycles.

I do have drawings for a "preloadable" type bar. If anyone is interested let me know.

TurboGibbs

iTrader: (6)

As everyone has stated before it is a very good way to eliminate wheel hop and not affect your ride quality or suspension travel but it isn't the best for of traction aid. A bar that comes down off the bottom of the axle (like a Caltrac) will eliminate axle wrap and also lift the front end and help shift weight back onto the rear axle. They do limit rear end travel of course. The 4wd's like the over axle bar and shackle to keep their flex optimal and keep from having ground clearence/obstruction issues from a under axle bar.
Nice install AxisT6

FarmerBeau

iTrader: (2)

Im not familiar with DOM, but i assume its a material. The reason i ask is that im really not comfortable welding cast iron because I have yet to dip into the whole nickle alloy aspect of it all... I did notice that the actual differential case is made of cast iron and rose welded to the axle tube. Basically i really dont want a cracked axle tube because then i would hate my life! Would adding a heim under the axle, as Mark meantioned, work better for weight transfer and traction or am i not getting the "big" picture?

Sorry i am kind of a visual learner, so im trying to draw a schematic in my head based on yalls description.

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

DOM is "Drawn over mandrel" its typically VERY strong and used to build cages a lot....

1ImperialSS

iTrader: (5)

who makes them?

An11secRanger

The case is actually cast steel rather than cast iron. They haven't used cast iron for a long time.

An11secRanger

Calvert Racing