Amp has power, but no sound from sub
12-10-2009, 09:09 AM
#33
12-17-2009, 01:09 AM
#34
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Glendale, AZ
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the last 2 that went out on my were both because of voice coils going out on me. my setting on my amp are good and everything but i think its just brands that don't make their subs to last. i think weather wasnt on my side either living in Arizona and they both went out in the middle of summer.
12-18-2009, 10:00 PM
#35
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Michigan
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THat KAC - X20 amp is NOT a 500W RMS amp. If they told you that, They were seriously snowballing you. That amp is rated for 180W X 2 = 360 rms, worth around $170-200.
Ive owned a very similar X model and it was a Piece of crap. There's no way that it was the 500W they claimed. Only in clipping probably. The worst part was that the removable cover RATTLED. There was no way to stop the rattle unless you were to put rubber inserts on the heat sink to cover interface. - which they did not provide.
Kenwood products of today are crap. If you open that amp up, its just a simple design amplifier circuit. Nothing more. On mine, they claimed to have dual power torroids for better current transfer and power supply.
HA- Opened it up and there was only 1, and it was dinky as heck!
Get your money back. There's such a thing called the Better business bureau.
My bet is your driving that amp until it clips - because it doesnt have enough power to push the sub, and your clipping the amp, sending raw voltage into the sub.
This is a speaker killer.
Get yourself a good quality sub. I am not fond of Rockfords amp products just because they waste more voltage creating heat and distortion....but they use to make rock solid Subs when you purchased the "Power" series.
Kicker Solobarics are fairly good too. Pioneer Premier subs are decent.
Amps:
U.S. Amps
Alphasonik (Unbelievable power and quality here) Alphasonik PMA800DA - 800W TRUE RMS @ 4 ohm
MMATS vintage (expensive, but high SPL hitters)
Lanzar OPTI digital amps (Lanzar OPTI4000D - 2000W RMS @ 4 ohm)
PPI - used to make a good amp - not sure if they still do. I know theyre heavy.
Kicker Vintage amps (96-99) if you can find them...good quality
Can't speak for JL.. They look nice, but the price is pretty steep.
Xtant - oh...how I wish they were still building their amps...
Try the usual places, then shop around on like Amazon etc.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com is another opportunity
Note on the amplifiers - 95% of the guys who install these high power amps neglect to ground the body/chassis properly.
If your running 4ga wire to the amp positive, where do you think the ground is going to come from?
On most cars, there is only a 10-12ga ground wire from the battery to the body. That's really all it needs in stock form.
I've seen Melted ground wires because the amp is trying to pull common so hard. Reference the photo. This power section of a Directed 2400 amp was fried along with a few traces trying to find a common to feed the amp circuit.
Not only does it destroy the electrical grounds, it also trashes the amplifier and possibly the head unit, as it's trying to pull a ground from wherever it can - Including RCA cables.
Make sure you upgrade your grounds accordingly!
Anyone serious about Car audio knows the above names, and will tell you to steer clear of the box stores.
Ive owned a very similar X model and it was a Piece of crap. There's no way that it was the 500W they claimed. Only in clipping probably. The worst part was that the removable cover RATTLED. There was no way to stop the rattle unless you were to put rubber inserts on the heat sink to cover interface. - which they did not provide.
Kenwood products of today are crap. If you open that amp up, its just a simple design amplifier circuit. Nothing more. On mine, they claimed to have dual power torroids for better current transfer and power supply.
HA- Opened it up and there was only 1, and it was dinky as heck!
Get your money back. There's such a thing called the Better business bureau.
My bet is your driving that amp until it clips - because it doesnt have enough power to push the sub, and your clipping the amp, sending raw voltage into the sub.
This is a speaker killer.
Get yourself a good quality sub. I am not fond of Rockfords amp products just because they waste more voltage creating heat and distortion....but they use to make rock solid Subs when you purchased the "Power" series.
Kicker Solobarics are fairly good too. Pioneer Premier subs are decent.
Amps:
U.S. Amps
Alphasonik (Unbelievable power and quality here) Alphasonik PMA800DA - 800W TRUE RMS @ 4 ohm
MMATS vintage (expensive, but high SPL hitters)
Lanzar OPTI digital amps (Lanzar OPTI4000D - 2000W RMS @ 4 ohm)
PPI - used to make a good amp - not sure if they still do. I know theyre heavy.
Kicker Vintage amps (96-99) if you can find them...good quality
Can't speak for JL.. They look nice, but the price is pretty steep.
Xtant - oh...how I wish they were still building their amps...
Try the usual places, then shop around on like Amazon etc.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com is another opportunity
Note on the amplifiers - 95% of the guys who install these high power amps neglect to ground the body/chassis properly.
If your running 4ga wire to the amp positive, where do you think the ground is going to come from?
On most cars, there is only a 10-12ga ground wire from the battery to the body. That's really all it needs in stock form.
I've seen Melted ground wires because the amp is trying to pull common so hard. Reference the photo. This power section of a Directed 2400 amp was fried along with a few traces trying to find a common to feed the amp circuit.
Not only does it destroy the electrical grounds, it also trashes the amplifier and possibly the head unit, as it's trying to pull a ground from wherever it can - Including RCA cables.
Make sure you upgrade your grounds accordingly!
Anyone serious about Car audio knows the above names, and will tell you to steer clear of the box stores.
Last edited by TrickyTransAm; 12-18-2009 at 10:19 PM.
12-22-2009, 05:59 AM
#36
THat KAC - X20 amp is NOT a 500W RMS amp. If they told you that, They were seriously snowballing you. That amp is rated for 180W X 2 = 360 rms, worth around $170-200.
Ive owned a very similar X model and it was a Piece of crap. There's no way that it was the 500W they claimed. Only in clipping probably. The worst part was that the removable cover RATTLED. There was no way to stop the rattle unless you were to put rubber inserts on the heat sink to cover interface. - which they did not provide.
Kenwood products of today are crap. If you open that amp up, its just a simple design amplifier circuit. Nothing more. On mine, they claimed to have dual power torroids for better current transfer and power supply.
HA- Opened it up and there was only 1, and it was dinky as heck!
Get your money back. There's such a thing called the Better business bureau.
My bet is your driving that amp until it clips - because it doesnt have enough power to push the sub, and your clipping the amp, sending raw voltage into the sub.
This is a speaker killer.
Get yourself a good quality sub. I am not fond of Rockfords amp products just because they waste more voltage creating heat and distortion....but they use to make rock solid Subs when you purchased the "Power" series.
Kicker Solobarics are fairly good too. Pioneer Premier subs are decent.
Amps:
U.S. Amps
Alphasonik (Unbelievable power and quality here) Alphasonik PMA800DA - 800W TRUE RMS @ 4 ohm
MMATS vintage (expensive, but high SPL hitters)
Lanzar OPTI digital amps (Lanzar OPTI4000D - 2000W RMS @ 4 ohm)
PPI - used to make a good amp - not sure if they still do. I know theyre heavy.
Kicker Vintage amps (96-99) if you can find them...good quality
Can't speak for JL.. They look nice, but the price is pretty steep.
Xtant - oh...how I wish they were still building their amps...
Try the usual places, then shop around on like Amazon etc.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com is another opportunity
Note on the amplifiers - 95% of the guys who install these high power amps neglect to ground the body/chassis properly.
If your running 4ga wire to the amp positive, where do you think the ground is going to come from?
On most cars, there is only a 10-12ga ground wire from the battery to the body. That's really all it needs in stock form.
I've seen Melted ground wires because the amp is trying to pull common so hard. Reference the photo. This power section of a Directed 2400 amp was fried along with a few traces trying to find a common to feed the amp circuit.
Not only does it destroy the electrical grounds, it also trashes the amplifier and possibly the head unit, as it's trying to pull a ground from wherever it can - Including RCA cables.
Make sure you upgrade your grounds accordingly!
Anyone serious about Car audio knows the above names, and will tell you to steer clear of the box stores.
Ive owned a very similar X model and it was a Piece of crap. There's no way that it was the 500W they claimed. Only in clipping probably. The worst part was that the removable cover RATTLED. There was no way to stop the rattle unless you were to put rubber inserts on the heat sink to cover interface. - which they did not provide.
Kenwood products of today are crap. If you open that amp up, its just a simple design amplifier circuit. Nothing more. On mine, they claimed to have dual power torroids for better current transfer and power supply.
HA- Opened it up and there was only 1, and it was dinky as heck!
Get your money back. There's such a thing called the Better business bureau.
My bet is your driving that amp until it clips - because it doesnt have enough power to push the sub, and your clipping the amp, sending raw voltage into the sub.
This is a speaker killer.
Get yourself a good quality sub. I am not fond of Rockfords amp products just because they waste more voltage creating heat and distortion....but they use to make rock solid Subs when you purchased the "Power" series.
Kicker Solobarics are fairly good too. Pioneer Premier subs are decent.
Amps:
U.S. Amps
Alphasonik (Unbelievable power and quality here) Alphasonik PMA800DA - 800W TRUE RMS @ 4 ohm
MMATS vintage (expensive, but high SPL hitters)
Lanzar OPTI digital amps (Lanzar OPTI4000D - 2000W RMS @ 4 ohm)
PPI - used to make a good amp - not sure if they still do. I know theyre heavy.
Kicker Vintage amps (96-99) if you can find them...good quality
Can't speak for JL.. They look nice, but the price is pretty steep.
Xtant - oh...how I wish they were still building their amps...
Try the usual places, then shop around on like Amazon etc.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com is another opportunity
Note on the amplifiers - 95% of the guys who install these high power amps neglect to ground the body/chassis properly.
If your running 4ga wire to the amp positive, where do you think the ground is going to come from?
On most cars, there is only a 10-12ga ground wire from the battery to the body. That's really all it needs in stock form.
I've seen Melted ground wires because the amp is trying to pull common so hard. Reference the photo. This power section of a Directed 2400 amp was fried along with a few traces trying to find a common to feed the amp circuit.
Not only does it destroy the electrical grounds, it also trashes the amplifier and possibly the head unit, as it's trying to pull a ground from wherever it can - Including RCA cables.
Make sure you upgrade your grounds accordingly!
Anyone serious about Car audio knows the above names, and will tell you to steer clear of the box stores.
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