This is becoming a headache for me. I can't figure out or decide what to do. I'm no expert at car audio systems and need everyone's opinion. I will be running a JL Audio 500/1 "slash" series amp. What size, series, and number of JL Audio subs can I fit that will compliment the amp I will be using? Should I go under or behind the seat. I've gotten so many different suggestions and have read just as many that I don't know what to do. I want loud clear bass. I really don't want to modify anything, but if a must, then keep it to a minimum. This is for my 2006 2500HD crew cab.

I'll also be running a JL Audio 300/4 with Focal 165V2 components and 130CV1 coaxles. For the head unit, I'll be using an Alpine IVA-W200.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

I'll be glad when you get it all installed. I'm picking up my new 1500 Crew Cab tomorrow and I'll be installing a sound system as well. I'll let you be my ginny pig

Good luck!

 

custom box behind the seat holding two tens is the easiest. Use Subs that require about .5cuft volume each. Sounds awesome, nice tight bass(subs permitting) but you won't win any SPL awards. you'll be working with about 4.5"-5.5" of mounting depth.

 

I'm not looking for so much the easiest, I'm looking for something that will sound awesome and won't require too much to get it to fit. I don't want to go any lower than a W3 series JL Audio sub. So whether its an 8 or 10 and the number of subs, they must be at least W3s.

On the other hand, I've been recommended by a buddy of mine who's been doing car audio/video/securty for about 15 years now states that for the best sound using 10W3s would be to go behind the seat with a custom enclosure, but having to move the seat forward 1".

 

affirmative, thats where the 4.5-5.5" mounting depth comes into play. You can add another 3/4" if you dont countersink the subs.

FWIW, I had a 1500HD that I did the exact same thing too, infact, Blownchevy may still have some photos of the box

 

moregrip, so you're saying without moving my seat, there's about 4.5" to 5.5" mounting depth? What do you mean by countersinking and adding another 3/4"?

Honestly, I really don't want to move the seat forward, but I will if I absolutely have to. But...if it had to be moved, I'd rather go up than forward. The way I see it, if you can make 2 10W3V2s fit behind the seat with moving the seat forward, then there shouldn't be any reason why it wouldn't fit under the seat with moving it up if need be.

 

what I did was loosen the bolts up on the rear seat, you can usually push it forward some as the holes are larger than the bolts.

here's some pics of my old box, currently BlownChevy's box. These 10" subs are countersunk, in other words, not just top mounted, there is another sheet of 3/4" MDF around the outside of the subs
:

 

these would be excellent subs for this type of a box:

http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/tech...ype=sub&id=idq

 

I'll check out my truck later this evening when I get off of work to see if I'm able to move it forward any. If anything, I can slot/enlongate them a bit and move it forward. I really didn't want to move it any more forward and give up leg room for rear passengers. Anyhow, I'm set on JL Audio subs. I would like to run at least a W3 series, so any other subs are out of the question.

So you're saying between the box and sub, there's a layer of 3/4" MDF so it pushes the speaker out an additional 3/4" away from the box? If that is correct, wouldn't adding a 3/4" spacer/ring around the hole between the box and speaker be doing the same thing? If so, does that give the speaker any more air space?

 

the outer piece of MDF is the main piece, there are 2 other pieces behind the largest circular cutouts where a slightly smaller circle is cutout(where the subwoofer actually rests/attaches). You do lose some airspace doing it this way, but not much. Looks cleaner IMO. Whats the mounting depth on the W3 series?