ramdaspadhye

iTrader: (3)

Rockford amps blow donkey *****, IMO. I won't go with anything other than the XX/XXV line from Hifonics, Kicker (non-digital), or Zapco. The Hifonics and Kicker would be mostly for banging, and the Zapco for more of a SQ install. I have a JBL bp1200.1 on 1 RE SX 15", 5.5 cubes at 33hz in my Yukon. Beats pretty damn nice for 1 15". The amp benched at 1360 RMS at either 1 or 2 ohms. That's one thing I like about this JBL amp is that it's the same wattage at either 1 or 2 ohms. The SQ isn't the best with the amp, but at only 225 bucks purchase price (5 years ago), it beats pretty damn nice.

larsy87

I just bought a cadence txa 1000d that benches at 1K watts at 13.8. My truck outputs more then that so I'll expect at least 1100 out of it according to independent benches. All for 205 shipped to my door.

53bowtie

iTrader: (6)

your expecting sound quality from a 15? i have had some bad dealings with hifonics....but to each his own. you will find people that say the amp they got at wal-mart kicks all other amps butts, everyone just has their own opinion i reckon...

sounds like a good deal larsy. you gonna use it to run your fi's?

ramdaspadhye

iTrader: (3)

lol, i can't believe you're going back to the whole "sound quality for X" woofer"...

Sound quality comes from the install, not the woofer. In all actuality, my box isn't a classic "ported" box. The recommended enclosure is like 3.5 cubes, but my box is built off the quarter wave theory, but for sake of not wanting to explain to the general public what a quarter wave actually is, i just say it's ported.

Only time size matters is when you get into extremely large woofers (18+" diameter). Even with large woofers, if your cone and surround are built well enough, even they can sound very nice. Most movie theater's bass is 1 15" or 1 18", usually around 800 watts depending on the size of the auditorium. The reason it's so loud with few wattage isn't the space that it's in... It's the enclosure. How do you think Bose makes so much money? It's not because of a "magical tube." It's the t heory and physics behind it that makes it work.

But yes, any quality made woofer can sound nice or sound like poop depending on the enclosure.

You said Fi's...as in Fi Audio? I've got a Fi Q 12 in a 2.5 cu ft box as my HT woofer. Very nice products, considering Scott was one of the co-owners of Resonant Engineering (maker of the sub I have). Ascendant Audio also makes nice woofers (also owned by Scott).

larsy87

I run two 12" fi SSD's in my truck @ 33 hz, of the 1606. My next setup will be a 10" BL off the cadence 1000. I want to see how loud I can get with the 10.


The X sized woofer sounding better is akin to a 10 that plays "faster" then a 18...but lasted a I checked 60 hz was 60 hz on any woofer.

ramdaspadhye

iTrader: (3)

Good ****. BL's get nice and loud Go with the largest recommended ported enclosure possible. Get some vids when you get done to show these folks how a quality product gets down!

larsy87

I have enough airspace for a 12 but it won't fit between my seats without making a complicated box, which I don't want to do again.

I have a video of my current set up right now playing I'm a buy you a drank. The mic on the camera distorts even when I'm 25 feet away, it'll be pretty hard to play actual sound!!

I'm just going for a freaking wanging hellish loud 10, with some cool mounting features thrown in as well.

Eskimo

iTrader: (9)

Grounds were barely touched upon, but let me elaborate.

Say you're running 1/0 power and ground. You obviously run the 12v+ straight from the battery. You have a 1/0 sized connection on that side.

Ground is just as important.

One person mentioned that his amp is grounded to the body, and he did upgrade the ground from the battery to the frame. OK, so how big is the wire from the frame to the body, or the body to the battery? Probably not 1/0 worth...

Wherever you ground something, there needs to be an equally big (or bigger) connection from that (body or frame, preferrably both) to the battery as well.

Onto the battery(s)- It really doesn't matter (much) what kind of battery you have as long as long as the alternator can keep over 12.6 volts. The battery only comes into play from 12.6 down, i.e. engine off, or at idle and you're drawing more than the alt. can produce.

Switching to a high-current battery isn't a total waste though.. it will help when the alternator isn't able to keep up, and when the engine is off.

But, if you look closely, at idle, turn off all the accessories except the headlights, and stand in front.. have a friend put on some sine waves or bass music.. even with 5 of the best batteries in the world, the lights will still dim down to 12.x, from the 14.x they were before the music.

A 105 amp cold-rated alternator only has about 50 amps available once it's warmed up and you subtract all the various systems it takes to run the truck and headlights, and that's at full operating RPM.. at idle, it's not as much. Capacitors help for bass "hits", but if you put on long tones, eventually that will discharge down to 12.x also.

My T/A has an underdrive crank pulley, a red top, and a small (150x2 RMS IIRC) POS Sony amp (P/O installed, I just got the car), and the voltage dips with music can be very noticable, especially when the cooling fans kick on. Its idle is set at 1000, with is roughly equivalent to the 600 the 8.1 in my 2500 idles at with stock pullies, so you're very likely getting into your battery's reserve at idle when you turn up the volume..

blah blah, enough rambling.. but if you only take away one thing from this, make it the grounding portion.. that will help more than anything else, as any resistance just makes the amp less efficient, making you try to turn the volume higher, and compounds the problem..

booger78z28

iTrader: (13)

OK guys, been reading through some of the tech here, and its got me worried now.
i have a 04 GMC regency , i got a probox with 2 punch P1's 12's in it with a soundstream f500.2, its hits hard enough for me, dont want to go any bigger, should i be worried about anything with this set-up? (battery, alternator, etc.)

I had a audio shop do all the hooking up on the amp (hot wire, ground, remote, LOC,(stock radio))



from another post.......

well i got my new amp hooked up today (soundstream f500.2) in where the old amp(MTX 4350d) was and bridged it , and that fugger hits hard as hell, i cant even see out of ANY of my mirrors (lol)
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...&postcount=299

larsy87

Your fine. On these trucks, 17-1800 watts is completely doable on stock alt, big 3 increases the limit a little bit.