Wayfastwhitey967

1 dc audio level 4 12 in a properly ported box, on like 1500 rms, you'll be more then happy. My buddy has one of these 12s on about that wattage in an old school 3 series beamer that is literally as loud as my 2 memphis 15s in my silvy.

04SilverBullet

My friend has 2 12" kickers in an ECSB Sierra, pretty sure they're not shallow mount.. I'll try to get some pics..

guero68

iTrader: (20)

i have a sub thump box in my truck 2-12 shallow mounts. Great fitment and quality. The NNBS are pretty limited in space but the 99-07 have alot of room..

454navyss

iTrader: (46)

does anyone make a box to put just one speaker under half of the back seat in an extended cab? my nitrous bottle occupies the other half.....

im not really into stereo stuff and im not going to make a box, i would just like a little more bass in my truck, is it even possible to add an amp and sub to a factory GM stereo?

slowfive0

Still think a competition style single 12" sub in a custom ported box would work awesome in one of these trucks. I can't seem to find anyone who does it though. If they do, it is always "remove the rear sear, build huge custom enclosure, etc". I wanted to keep my seat at stock height as I use this truck as a daily driver (30,000 miles/yr) and my kids sit back there regularly. Maybe the issue is that a big sub like that (competition style) wouldn't physically fit without at least raising the seat?????

Nevertheless, since my last reply, I went a little different direction hoping to increase my stereos performance while staying somewhat conservative. I don't want to lose any utility and I don't want my vehicle to become a target for thieves.

I ended up purchasing an old school Orion amp, Alphine Type X door speakers for the fronts and some decent Memphis car audio speakers for the rear door speakers (fill). I'm running the front speakers off of an old school RF Punch 4 channel amp bridged and the rears via the deck (Top of the line Pioneer Premier? head unit back in 2004/05 era. Bought a proboxrocks sub setup (2) 10" subs in their ported enclosure supposedly rated for 1000rms that I'm running with an old school Orion amp. I'm told this amp is underrated and will put out over 1000rms! I have each of the speakers (4 ohm each) wired directly to the amp so with the 2 ohm load (two 4ohm speakers wired in parallel) I'm seeing 725 or so watts right? Is there a way to create a 1 ohm load with my setup as the amp is already one channel? I would love to push over a 1000watts to those subs!

The system sounds good, but I think I need to be able to fine tune the frequencies better (either better deck or some sort of passive eq). Also, need more power for the Alpines! At this point I want to throw up over the amount I've spent to get to where I'm at now vs the investment I had with my homemade sealed box with (2) 12" woofers before (about $200). It sounded really good utilizing an old school RF 2 channel amp that I had bridged to it.

My truck is no where close to knocking a cup of water over on the roof or flexing the windows, rattling the mirrors, etc. Don't get me wrong it hits decently hard for the average person, but for what I have I think it should hit harder! I also bought my stuff through a local stereo shop who has been around forever and was highly recommended to me from an old car audio buddy. They tweaked on the system and pretty much said it is what it is without going to more custom stuff (big box in back, etc).

Side note, I upgraded the alternator (145 amp alternator, XS mobile audio battery, big high quality audio power cable to battery and big high quality grounds (close to power source), etc.

Any thoughts? What, not enough power at the 2 ohm load? Need to fine tune frequency ranges better? Is what it is for (2) 10's? Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

Orion 1200D (ori1200d) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier

ProBox Custom UTV tops and Vehicle-Specific Subwoofers and Enclosures

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

Power Reference Coaxial Speakers from Memphis Car Audio

slowfive0

Exactly! I would still love to try something like this. Seems like you could build a box that would give you enough air space for 1 of these (12"). Worst case scenario, raise the seat one or two inches to fit the big speaker. Surely someone has done this???!

Only reason I can possibly come up with for not doing it is because if you're crazy enough to run something like this, then you probably want even more and would remove the rear seat and build something really crazy!? Or maybe I'm not looking in the right places?

If this would work, what would be the best placement of the woofer (downfiring, forward facing, etc)? Also, if level 4 is good, why not XL or level 5? Those look like they would POUND!

CC05

iTrader: (2)

You can throw them down to 1 ohm, only if they're DVC 4's wired parallel/parallel. Airspace will make or break you, and that'd be the problem with anything with a larger magnet. I did work for a guy a good while back, while in school where I use to live, and we actually took the left "seat" out of the back seat of his crew cab, and built a box with two 12's. Ported, rhino-lined it black to match his interior, and it sounded great. He had two kids of his own, and they had plenty of room. Anything under the seat isn't going to get that loud...well, depends on who you ask, but I'm here to say that it won't be loud like you're talking. Plan it out right, get the correct airspace with the right sub, and throw the right power to it. You'll be fine. That's keeping it pretty simple.

slowfive0

Cool, I didn't know about the DVC speakers. I don't believe mine are. I posted a link up above---there is only one connection to each speaker so I would say no. If you look at their picture, they have another connector on each side, but that is for some lights.

I totally agree with you on the airspace. Is the speaker not getting to loud under the seat about the lack of room to obtain the correct air space or is it about the seat limiting the speaker mounting options? Because I can get enough air space for one 12" woofer right now but not positive on how I would mount it at this point in time.

CC05

iTrader: (2)

If the subs are SVC, then wired Parallel final impeadence would be @ 2 ohm. Wired in series, they would be @ 8 ohm. So essentially, on your alt., battery, etc., you'd probably be pulling 6XX rms. @ 2 ohm. With that being said, the mounting options and the lack of airspace are both problems. If you aren't willing to give up any of your back seat, I'd drive over to a local audio retailer and check out a ProBox that'd fit under your back seat. They do a great job with specific fit applications. Because personally, I wouldn't trust very many audio shops with a box build on my truck. You run into more and more guys these days who do horrible work, don't know the product they're dealing with, or both. So, check out ProBox and see what you think. I'm not saying that you can't make what you've got work, but going off of specs doesn't compensate for actual measurements that I'd like to take in person. If you were closer, I'd GLADLY build you a box. Unfortunately, that's the problem.

slowfive0

Those links I posted are what i have currently. What I was trying to say in that long novel (lol) was that I "used to have" (2) 12" RF bullcrap woofers that I paid like 200 bucks new for in a homemade sealed box. I used an old RF punch 100 two channel amp bridged that I had laying around that came with a car I purchased like 10 years ago and it sounded awesome for what it was.

I now have the Probox, big Orion amp, better door speakers, etc and it sounds better, but not what I hoped. Maybe my expectations are too high, but damn that was a lot of money for 20% improvement..... Live and learn I guess, lol

No doubt! Too bad you weren't closer.