1968_SS350

I am looking at some AMP's to power my JL Audio Stealth box center jump seat style for my 2009 Silverado extra cab. I am keeping the factory head unit.

The stealth box:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?fit_id=1586

Looking at these AMPS;

MTX TC4001 Mono
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/TC4001.cfm

MTX TC3002 2 Channel Amp
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/TC3002.cfm

MTX TC4002 2 Channel Amp
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/TC4002.cfm

Pioneer GM-D8400M Mono
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1203815922943

Cost is a concern for me since the wife is already pissed that I bought the stealth box but she will like the sound and she does crank it up also, the stealth box was expensive but it's going to worth it. I have heard one and it was awsome.

What are the advantages of the monos vs the 2 channel AMPs? pro and cons of each?

Does anyone know if the rear seat back can be removed and the amp placed back there out of the way and hidden? Remember It's an Extra Cab. We both like the factory system but look forward to a little bump from the hump.

BTW:

I have a very old Harmon Kardon CA260 Amp I can use but it's big and will have to mount under the seat area on the drivers side. Also I really don't want to drill holes to mount. The local stereo place tells me they can mount the others and don't have to drill using some straps and velcro which sounded a little wacky but I did see an install in a new F150 double cab that was very sano and theguy did want holes drill eighter, I guess I am not alone on that one......

It's been years since I have done any audio stuff in car and don't know much about what's out there anymore.

Last stuff I had was my Harmon Kardons and some Orions, sold everything but the CA260....I just could not let it go. My use it in my 67 Camaro!

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

dont mess with that junk, get a JL 250/1v2, there amps are better than there subs imo, and there subs are really good so that should tell u something.. You already got a good enclosure and sub, spend the money(which isnt much more) and get a good amp to match. also dont skimp out on the wires size wise. again just my 2cents..

tallChevy

iTrader: (14)

none of those amps are right for that sub. you need an amp with about 600-700 rms. when most people run an amp that is too small for a sub they end up turning the amp all the way up. turning an amp all the way up sends distortion to the sub. that is how underpowered subs get blown.

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

how do you think a 700rms amp is good for a 500MAX sub. nope no distortion there..

1968_SS350

Tell me what you think of this:

JL E1400D-M

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io+e1400D.html

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

it would do the job, only reason i suggested a slash series amp is because it has the RIPS system which keeps a steady 250watts@4ohms(or more JL is usually underrated) between different voltages where as reg amps rate there max ratings @ 14.6v or above which is almost impossible in normal driving conditions. heres a description what im talking about

R.I.P.S. System™ ensures consistent power delivery over a wide range of battery voltages and load impedance's.
"Regulated" means that the power supply adjusts its operation so as to maintain the amplifier's rated power output and low distortion operation over a wide range of vehicle voltages.
The "Intelligent" portion of the R.I.P.S. System is a circuit that actually monitors output current to optimize the amplifier's output power over a wide range of load impedances (1.5 ohm to 4 ohm per channel).

From what youve described youre not looking to pound, but just want a good sounding system, and that above will help get you that imo. Get what you want but on a non JL slash250 amp i would look for 250-300rmsx1 @4ohm output @12.5v or so and it should push it just fine. where as a JL amp with RIPS would push 250w(at least prob more) all the time anytime not at just one voltage... again just my 2cents

tallChevy

iTrader: (14)

You are right if he gets a 700 watt amp and turns it up all the way he will have distortion from his sub. But if he only turns the amp up half or 3/4 the way up he will not get distortion from the sub and he will get less distortion from the amp. If he gets a 300-400 watt amp and turns it all the way up he will get alot of distortion from the amp. an amps power is not as clean when it is turned all the way up.

1968_SS350

I found the JL E1400D-M for $250.00, I noticed when looking at it's specs that it rated at 200 watts RMS at 12.5 volts and 320 watts RMS at 14.4 volts. That is a wide margin, since you think they tend to underate the power will the 200 watts be enough? Or could it not be enough and cause damage at higher volumes? Will the rest of the stock system even go that loud without distortion?

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

If your not doing anything else like replacing the stock speakers with it, no its def not gonna sound its best when u crank it up. that amp and sub probaly will be enough to overpower the stock stuff. When talking about distortion lots of factors come into play, headunit, inputs/wires, quality of the amp, grounds etc. if all your doing is adding the sub that amp will work fine, but im guessing you will be wanting something to hear the highs better in a month or two because your stock stuff is way more likely to distort.

i understand your on a budget, but from what ive learned on everything is do it once, and the right way first time around.. should sound better with that built downfire enclosure tho, just dont expect a symphony with the stock stuff still in there. also again dont skimp on power and ground wires..

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

i see your point, and in fact have been thru it cranking a too small amp when i should of gotten a bigger one in the first place. but seems to me he just wants a simple setup with no plans in the future to upgrade so why get something to big when a good "quality" amp will do just fine..