My lights dim terribly when my bass hits???
03-23-2007, 07:41 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by 9GMC9
Almost but no. Get a cap if you have a H.O. alternator. DO YOUR lights dim all the time or just on idle? If it dims all around no matter what, a bigger alternator will help.
The speakers are a Kicker Comp VR 10 inch. I'm not sure of the model numbers
And I'll post the Amp model as soon as I install the new 140amp alternator.
03-23-2007, 11:14 AM
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Well, if you got the alternator (An H/O alternator would have been better, IMO), add any 1000cca battery to the truck, and upgrade the ground straps/cable, and you shouldn't have any problems. Skip the cap altogether, it's only a band-aid for the problem.
03-23-2007, 11:20 AM
#23
Originally Posted by wayland1985
Well, if you got the alternator (An H/O alternator would have been better, IMO), add any 1000cca battery to the truck, and upgrade the ground straps/cable, and you shouldn't have any problems. Skip the cap altogether, it's only a band-aid for the problem.
03-23-2007, 12:12 PM
#24
O.K. Guys, Speaking from years of professional experience, SPL world records, and national champion dB Drag competitor:
Caps are good for paperweights and "Ohh - Ahhs" in a SPL system. The only benifit I see in them (no matter what capacitance they have) is to filter out A/C ripple from your alt. They add tremendous resistance to your audio electrical system.
Your amps: Do they have a regulated power supply? If they do not, you are wasting your time trying to supply them with more current. Gain, adjusting you "gain" isn't going to resolve your issue to a degree. I see someone mentioning "clipping" which is a correct statement however if you are running a low pass filter on your signal input, clipping your signal will be minimal (depending on the slope of the X-over). Often a gain will be too high and just cause unnecessary signal boost and noise.
Your electrical system needs to be looked at and her are some general rules:
1. Use high quality stranded copper wire for power and ground. Based on your power levels, I would suggest 4AWG wire. Keep your grounds short (less than 18 inches). Take your head unit ground wire out of the wire harness and ground it directly to your "firewall". Do the "big 3" upgrade.
2. Get a larger bank of batteries, either larger reserve amps or dual batteries. Your alternator is marginal at best and a nice 160 amp would do wonders. I wouldn't waste your time on an adjustable voltage regulator at this time unless you want to do a dedicated higher current line for a winch or something like that.
Caps are good for paperweights and "Ohh - Ahhs" in a SPL system. The only benifit I see in them (no matter what capacitance they have) is to filter out A/C ripple from your alt. They add tremendous resistance to your audio electrical system.
Your amps: Do they have a regulated power supply? If they do not, you are wasting your time trying to supply them with more current. Gain, adjusting you "gain" isn't going to resolve your issue to a degree. I see someone mentioning "clipping" which is a correct statement however if you are running a low pass filter on your signal input, clipping your signal will be minimal (depending on the slope of the X-over). Often a gain will be too high and just cause unnecessary signal boost and noise.
Your electrical system needs to be looked at and her are some general rules:
1. Use high quality stranded copper wire for power and ground. Based on your power levels, I would suggest 4AWG wire. Keep your grounds short (less than 18 inches). Take your head unit ground wire out of the wire harness and ground it directly to your "firewall". Do the "big 3" upgrade.
2. Get a larger bank of batteries, either larger reserve amps or dual batteries. Your alternator is marginal at best and a nice 160 amp would do wonders. I wouldn't waste your time on an adjustable voltage regulator at this time unless you want to do a dedicated higher current line for a winch or something like that.
03-23-2007, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by thunder550
That will help, but I still think there's either a wiring or setup issue. That's a bit excessive for a 300 watt amp.
03-24-2007, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tim_ramsey99
u got a bad cell in ur battary and check ur alternator.
Originally Posted by krambo
O.K. Guys, Speaking from years of professional experience, SPL world records, and national champion dB Drag competitor:
Caps are good for paperweights and "Ohh - Ahhs" in a SPL system. The only benifit I see in them (no matter what capacitance they have) is to filter out A/C ripple from your alt. They add tremendous resistance to your audio electrical system.
Your amps: Do they have a regulated power supply? If they do not, you are wasting your time trying to supply them with more current. Gain, adjusting you "gain" isn't going to resolve your issue to a degree. I see someone mentioning "clipping" which is a correct statement however if you are running a low pass filter on your signal input, clipping your signal will be minimal (depending on the slope of the X-over). Often a gain will be too high and just cause unnecessary signal boost and noise.
Your electrical system needs to be looked at and her are some general rules:
1. Use high quality stranded copper wire for power and ground. Based on your power levels, I would suggest 4AWG wire. Keep your grounds short (less than 18 inches). Take your head unit ground wire out of the wire harness and ground it directly to your "firewall". Do the "big 3" upgrade.
2. Get a larger bank of batteries, either larger reserve amps or dual batteries. Your alternator is marginal at best and a nice 160 amp would do wonders. I wouldn't waste your time on an adjustable voltage regulator at this time unless you want to do a dedicated higher current line for a winch or something like that.
Caps are good for paperweights and "Ohh - Ahhs" in a SPL system. The only benifit I see in them (no matter what capacitance they have) is to filter out A/C ripple from your alt. They add tremendous resistance to your audio electrical system.
Your amps: Do they have a regulated power supply? If they do not, you are wasting your time trying to supply them with more current. Gain, adjusting you "gain" isn't going to resolve your issue to a degree. I see someone mentioning "clipping" which is a correct statement however if you are running a low pass filter on your signal input, clipping your signal will be minimal (depending on the slope of the X-over). Often a gain will be too high and just cause unnecessary signal boost and noise.
Your electrical system needs to be looked at and her are some general rules:
1. Use high quality stranded copper wire for power and ground. Based on your power levels, I would suggest 4AWG wire. Keep your grounds short (less than 18 inches). Take your head unit ground wire out of the wire harness and ground it directly to your "firewall". Do the "big 3" upgrade.
2. Get a larger bank of batteries, either larger reserve amps or dual batteries. Your alternator is marginal at best and a nice 160 amp would do wonders. I wouldn't waste your time on an adjustable voltage regulator at this time unless you want to do a dedicated higher current line for a winch or something like that.
What kind of truck do you have torque_wrench?
03-26-2007, 10:01 AM
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Guys...again I want to thank you all for your input! This past weekend, I installed my new alternator and new battery and I went with the 100 CCA battery and a 140 amp alternator.
After the install my lights don't dim at all...and everything works perfectly.
Thanx gusy...I coulden't have fixed this without your advice!
After the install my lights don't dim at all...and everything works perfectly.
Thanx gusy...I coulden't have fixed this without your advice!