NBS Ext. Cab - Speaker Overhaul
#1
NBS Ext. Cab - Speaker Overhaul
Truck in signature. I've got the six-speaker setup (separate tweeter and 6.5 midbass in front doors, 4x6 in rear doors), non-Bose, no Onstar, no console.
The midbass in my driver door took a crap this morning on the way to work and it's driving me crazy.
I have the stock speakers all around, but with an older, pretty nice Kenwood head unit.
When things break, I tend to go crazy and fix a bunch of stuff all at once. So, I'm likely about to replace every speaker in the truck, sound deaden the doors, and add a subwoofer.
Car audio is probably my weakest area of knowledge. I know very little, so don't hate if I sound dumb somewhere. I listen to a wide range of music, and am NOT trying to win trophies or annoy the neighbors. I have a 70-mile daily commute to work, so I just want something full-range that I can enjoy during my drive. I prefer natural sounding clarity over loudness, if forced to choose.
My budget is $1,500.
I'm thinking a single 10" amped subwoofer under the rear bench, 'plate' speakers for the rear doors, and EITHER an amped component system up front OR unhook the factory tweeters and run new 2-way coaxials.
If my understanding is correct, you'd need a 4-channel amp to run both the components up front and the sub in the back, but only a 2-channel amp if I just got replacement coaxial speakers up front and only used it for the sub.
I want it to sound good, and I know components are much more expensive. And the amp to run them is more expensive, too. Right?
Considering all of this...Questions:
1. Think one 10" sub will be sufficient?
2. Should the sub box be ported?
3. Is the quality difference worth the cost and added work of adding components up front? I'm not an audiophile, and I've got a budget.
4. What speaker/amp/subwoofer brands do you recommend?
5. Is sound deadening (like Dynamat) worth the trouble?
Any advice is appreciated. I've searched the threads, but I'm seeing mostly regular cab, crew cab, or console setups.
The midbass in my driver door took a crap this morning on the way to work and it's driving me crazy.
I have the stock speakers all around, but with an older, pretty nice Kenwood head unit.
When things break, I tend to go crazy and fix a bunch of stuff all at once. So, I'm likely about to replace every speaker in the truck, sound deaden the doors, and add a subwoofer.
Car audio is probably my weakest area of knowledge. I know very little, so don't hate if I sound dumb somewhere. I listen to a wide range of music, and am NOT trying to win trophies or annoy the neighbors. I have a 70-mile daily commute to work, so I just want something full-range that I can enjoy during my drive. I prefer natural sounding clarity over loudness, if forced to choose.
My budget is $1,500.
I'm thinking a single 10" amped subwoofer under the rear bench, 'plate' speakers for the rear doors, and EITHER an amped component system up front OR unhook the factory tweeters and run new 2-way coaxials.
If my understanding is correct, you'd need a 4-channel amp to run both the components up front and the sub in the back, but only a 2-channel amp if I just got replacement coaxial speakers up front and only used it for the sub.
I want it to sound good, and I know components are much more expensive. And the amp to run them is more expensive, too. Right?
Considering all of this...Questions:
1. Think one 10" sub will be sufficient?
2. Should the sub box be ported?
3. Is the quality difference worth the cost and added work of adding components up front? I'm not an audiophile, and I've got a budget.
4. What speaker/amp/subwoofer brands do you recommend?
5. Is sound deadening (like Dynamat) worth the trouble?
Any advice is appreciated. I've searched the threads, but I'm seeing mostly regular cab, crew cab, or console setups.
#4
Is the bass good enough to not need a separate subwoofer? (Yes, I know a midbass ain't a sub, yada yada). Like I said earlier, I'm looking for a decent full range sound, not a window rattler.
#5
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[QUOTE=I wouldnt worry about the rear door speakers, the soundstage should be up front.[/QUOTE]
Definitely spend the money on a nice set of front speakers. Speakers in the rear is a waste in ext cab trucks. I would get a nice set of separates speakers for the front. a 400 watt 2 channel amp for those front speakers, and a 1000 watt mono amp for the ten inch sub. You may also want to look at some 8 inch subs too like digital designs, JL, and Alpine.
I'm short for time right now so let me know if you have any more questions and I can help you out later.
Definitely spend the money on a nice set of front speakers. Speakers in the rear is a waste in ext cab trucks. I would get a nice set of separates speakers for the front. a 400 watt 2 channel amp for those front speakers, and a 1000 watt mono amp for the ten inch sub. You may also want to look at some 8 inch subs too like digital designs, JL, and Alpine.
I'm short for time right now so let me know if you have any more questions and I can help you out later.
#6
I agree with the jl up front. Arc audio makes great amps for the price and id look into re subs. Im running jl components powered by arc amp and 2 re srx 12s in downfiring box under rear seat powered by arc amp. I wouldnt want much louder in my truck. The bass can be loud if you want but by no means drowns the rest of it out. And at low normal listening level it sounds amazing. Crisp amd clear with just a little thump. I used to be jl all the way subs components everything except for old school rockford punch amps amd since then we have 4 vehicles total and all have jl components arc amps and re srx subs. Theres lower level entry subs but the srx is a great sub. They also have more high level stuff but the magnets on them are too big for a underseat truck box. I love that set up and have went that route in two extended cab trucks a jeep amd a g6.
And i honestly think you could get that setup for very close to your budget.
And i honestly think you could get that setup for very close to your budget.
#7
I would absolutely recommend components up front because they're going to sound awesome, and its ridiculously easy since the factory already set you up with a great set of door panels to mount a tweeter and crossover. I'm obviously biased towards Arc, but I would recommend the Arc series 6.2 component set powered by a XDi80.5 bi amping the components, and then an Arc series 10 dual 4ohm voice coil. In your size cabin, that would give you tons of output, then I'd spend some money deadening your front doors to get some more low end extension from your door speakers.
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#8
What model numbers on amp and components? Did you get the 3 speaker or 2 speaker set?
Is the bass good enough to not need a separate subwoofer? (Yes, I know a midbass ain't a sub, yada yada). Like I said earlier, I'm looking for a decent full range sound, not a window rattler.
Is the bass good enough to not need a separate subwoofer? (Yes, I know a midbass ain't a sub, yada yada). Like I said earlier, I'm looking for a decent full range sound, not a window rattler.
I used an autotek atx 950.4 for the highs, a new jvc aresenal cd player with mp3, in face aux plug and usb, and through in an indash equalizer to adjust on the go. I listen to alot of burned cds, so the eq is nice to adjust to the different recordings. For the sub I have a 12" mtx on a kenwood mono amp. It pounds pretty hard. The components were on back order everywhere I tried to order except amazon. I paid the extra money to get them because of the reviews and I couldn't be happier. I had infinity perfects before, loud and clear as hell but no midbass, then switched to powerbass and had nice mids but highs werent very clear and they blew in six months.
#9
Focal car audio is the best. I have it set up in my silverado and it sounds amazing.You will need one four channel amp for your speakers front & rear doors and a mono amp for the sub. There are lots of options out there so take your time and don't cut corners, because you will only fix it and cost you more dough.
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