usabodyguard

iTrader: (13)

The main wiring harness that drops out of the fuse box that goes to the motor/injectors/etc is not long enough for me to route it where I want - I would like to extend it 14"... other than the wire/solder/heatshrink is there any special wires that cant be cut?

Each wire will be extended one at a time, to avoid crossing, anything else I need to know?
I will probably cut it about 14 inches from the fuse box to allow enough room to work on both ends.

I will match gauge and err on the side of caution with each wire too. Seems like a good job for a sunday...

any advice would be awesome!

usabodyguard

iTrader: (13)

53bowtie

iTrader: (6)

aside from air bag wires, which should be covered in a yellow rap of some kind, all the wires to sensors under the hood should be normal with no special kind of coating. Just match the gauge wire like you said and you should be just fine. I would advise ( just because I have had bad solder joints in the past) also to test the wire with a DMM (set to the setting that beeps when the leads touch) on each side of the solder joint just to make sure. Good luck.

04BlackSilverado

iTrader: (6)

Quote:

Originally Posted by 53bowtie

I would advise ( just because I have had bad solder joints in the past) also to test the wire with a DMM (set to the setting that beeps when the leads touch) on each side of the solder joint just to make sure. Good luck.

What you are talking about on a DMM is a Diode check. The meter sends a small voltage across the test leads to verify the polarity of a diode and beeps when the correct anode/cathode polarity is set.

DO NOT MEASURE WIRE CONTINUITY WITH THE BEEP!!!

The Diode check will beep with as much as 400Ω of resistance in some meters.

Please use the resistance function to measure continuity.
And there should be ZERO added resistance from the solder joints.
I would expect ≤0.001Ω

P.S. Check your meter leads as well, if they are old, cracking, or oil soaked, replace them!