shakenfake

That is true. The best sound system I have ever heard was my father's 2016 or 17 Suburban. Damn that thing was amazing stock.

dantheman1540

Well they make universal ones that are either wedge shaped or typical rectangular boxes. I see some for around $500 of course thats without an amp but you already have an amp.

Come down to Florida and pick the one I have up for a mildly discounted price.

shakenfake

Yeah I was looking at the custom fit one. 2 tens that only takes up the driver side rear seat. Looked pretty trick.

Planning on picking up some new equipment next month. Have a buddy coming in October and I don't wanna still have blown subs by then lol also I'll be daily driving the truck again since right now I am not

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

A properly set up 10" sub is more than enough for a SQ application in an Ext Cab. Personally I prefer the sound of smaller subs as they are more precise and not as muddy/boomy. Same goes for enclosures, I prefer the tight sound of a properly sized sealed enclosure over a ported. A sub in a sealed enclosure will require a little more power to produce the same SPL as in a ported enclosure.

As for the existing 2x12" enclosure in question, the math is not adding up. From the Amazon description "2.24 Cubic Feet Net Volume internal air space(.63 per sub) is ideal for tight accurate bass reproduction. " 2.24cf net is 1.12cf per sub if not divided (which it dosent seem to be). You may need to confirm the actual volume of the enclosure before picking subs if that is the route you are going. 0.63cf is small for a 12 so I am leaning on the 1.12 to be more accurate. A divider will also help the subs if they are currently in shared airspace.

Once the correct subs are chosen for the enclosure (or vice versa), the power source is equally important for accurate bass reproduction. Don't get caught up in peak wattage numbers. Focus on RMS values and THD for the amp. RMS handling and sensitivity for the subs.

shakenfake

Yeah the Amazon ad is a typo it is apparently .93 cubic inches. Which also doesn't add up cause how do you get 2.24 then but I don't know. I think they do have a divider but I could be mistaken.

I am heavily leaning on buying a new box and going the 10" sub route. I am thinking a JL Audio 10W1v3-2 would be good in one of those prefabbed boxes on Amazon. That sub is rated for 300 RMS at 2 Ohms and my amp can do 250 watts at 2 Ohms. I agree with you on the sealed enclosure vs ported. I like ported too but I think the sealed enclosure will be good in the truck in comparison to the ported.

Sub: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/...bwoofers-92080
Amp manual if you care to look: https://images.carid.com/lanzar/ampl...ser-manual.pdf

Thoughts and opinions?

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

So which model amp do you have? OP and last post don't jive per specs from linked pdf.

As for the JL subs, I have owned several 10W1 and 10W0 subs and they have been great. Rockford, Kicker and MTX have always been solid choices too. I had a roomate in college that had a badass system with multiple cheap 8" subs from Parts Express, although the were feed by a strapped HiFonics Atlas amp from the mid-90's. Just goes to show what expensive parts don't necessarily make the system.

shakenfake

HTG558BT isn't it 250 watts at 2 ohms? Oh **** no I'm retarded you are right it is 250 watts at 4, looked at it wrong my bad my bad. In that case I would maybe go with a 4 ohm sub. I don't know if 350 watts at 2 ohms is overpowering it too much but it says out of warranty on JL website so....

Yeah now I have two kickers like I said, my garage has an MTX system and I have two Skar subs I got for free sitting on the floor. I like JL though they seem to have the best quality in terms of car audio that I have seen.

Edit: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/...bwoofers-92165
This is the 4 ohm I was looking at.

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

558 is a 5 channel amp, should be using the mono sub channel which is 1500W @ 2ohms. Then use the 4 x 250W channels for mid/highs.

shakenfake

Don’t have it wired to my door speakers. I figured there wouldn’t be a problem wiring it anywhere….

Are you saying I am retarded?

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

Just stating how that amp was designed to be used and giving options for a more optimal setup. You can read into it what you want.

That is a decent amp that you could build a nice system around if used to its potential but if it is only going to be used to power the sub(s), You would be better off selling it and getting a mono sub amp.