foxySS

I can't for the life of me figure out what's going on! Someone must have an idea?

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/in...howtopic=37767

NoChrome

iTrader: (1)

ok, stop chasing the grounded wire from the roll pan install, that should only pull current with the lights on, I would physically disconnect the power line to the alarm system, and make sure that amp's are not "stuck" on like a piece of metal shorting the power wire to the remote turn on wire if that doesnt work, start unpluging after market stuff to narrow it down.

SIKDMAX

iTrader: (8)

You need to physically discount each wire one at a time and see what happens, figure out when it sits with that thing undone if the batt still drains. Just test one at a time.

silveradol33

iTrader: (30)

I say check all the wires with a voltmeter. Check the diagram and make sure what ones should and shouldnt have power.

foxySS

NoChrome, I going to disconnect the stereo/alarm tonight and see what happens.

I went through every single fuse I could find and not one of them was drawing any amperage The only thing I did notice is that the fuse box (inside my truck) has some of the alarm modules and wiring going through it. There is a module labeled DEI 457g that has a solid red led that stays on. This is a GM Remote Start & Door Lock Databus Interface. It looks like there is a reset/programming button that I tried pressing and it didn't turn the light off. I started messing around with the wiring going to and from the module and the light goes on and off when I move the wiring. It looks like there might be a short there somewhere. I have no idea if this light is supposed to be on solid or not though. There is a 5amp fuse just inches away from this module and I tested it- no amperage, but a current of 1.1v.

foxySS

I drove the truck around for a while to give it a good charge and looked at the alarm module again. No light on anymore... Must have been due to the low battery.

I unplugged all the stereo and alarm. Will see what kind of voltage the batt. has tomorrow.

foxySS

Did some more searching and haven't really found an answer, although battery did not drain at all really with the amps/alarm unplugged from the battery for 24hrs. I plugged the them back in for a few hours and didn't see any drain. I went out and bought a new batt charger today (since the old one got lost in the process of moving.) Gave it a good charge. Will see what it looks like tomorrow.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

after reading what you posted . . . . it sounds like there was something wrong with your alarm install, or the amp.

When the truck is off, and the door has been opened, are there any lights on the amp "on." Is there a light for the "RMA." That's the relay for the amp to turn on. It should be off when the door is opened, and the key is off.

Your alarm might have the source wires hooked up wrong. Are all of the courtesy lights off? What about the door locks, are they in the neutral motion? Not locking, or unlocking, but free to move on their own? Are there any other options with the alarm like auto roll up?

I'm betting on the alarm or the amp for sucking the battery dry. Disconnect your amp and do the meter on the battery and see what happens, and then do the same for the alarm.

The grounding license plate deal would just pop a fuse.

foxySS

My amps are JL so I don't believe they have a RMA light. At least I didn't see any lights. All courtesy lights are off and doorlocks operate as they should. The only options that are set with the alarm are autostart, autolock/unlock and parking light flash.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

There has to be some kind of auto switching, if not, your amp is "always on" . . . it's like turning off the engine, but your ignition is still on.