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Installing 06 Chevy E-fans on a 01 Chevy

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Old 08-05-2020, 04:29 PM
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So here's a thought.. the e-fans are pcm-controlled based on engine temp reported by the CTS? There's no fail-safe that I can think of if the CTS is bad, please correct me if I'm wrong.

With that in mind, if/when your CTS goes bad and reads colder than actual (typical failure mode) then the fans won't come on when they should?

Richard
Old 08-05-2020, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by someotherguy
So here's a thought.. the e-fans are pcm-controlled based on engine temp reported by the CTS? There's no fail-safe that I can think of if the CTS is bad, please correct me if I'm wrong.

With that in mind, if/when your CTS goes bad and reads colder than actual (typical failure mode) then the fans won't come on when they should?

Richard
Richard, I believe that is correct, that it could cause the fans to come on at the wrong temps or possibly not at all. I know for my suburban, if I disconnect the CTS, my truck will shut off. I’m not sure if newer trucks have a fail safe to command the fans to high in the event there is no readings.

I know the Davies Craig fan controller goes into a fail safe and will turn fans on if there is no reading, but I am not sure if the PCM will.

But someone else on this forum may provide more detail!
Old 08-07-2020, 07:36 AM
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My concern popped up while my CTS was malfunctioning the other day due to apparent interference from the #1 plug wire; the sensor wires and plug wire were rubbing against each other. Temperature gauge dropped to 160F (bottom of the scale on my 06), idle speed kicked up to 1K. Engine in reality was at operating temperature. If I'd continued to run it like that stuck in traffic I am pretty sure the fans would not have kicked on and I would have overheated.. something for anyone with factory E-fan setup on these trucks to consider.

Richard
Old 01-05-2021, 06:56 PM
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I was just looking at this, and wanted to add some info. There are two fan sets that will work with this. There is the 5 / 7 blade fan set, and the 7 / 9 blade fan set. The 5/7 blade set uses 500 watt motors. The 7/9 blade set uses 700 watt motors. A 2005+ is running lower voltage than a 99-04, but if you're running at 14.4volts, that 5/7 blade, 500 watts, is pulling (500/14.4 =) 34.7 amps. The 7/9 blade set uses more blades that are smaller because they were designed to be quieter. I have no information on CFM air flow, but that 7/9 blade fan set is pulling (700/14.4 =) 48.6 amps. I'm going to round up, but keep in mind these fans are pulling an extra 35 or 50 amp draw when both are on. Depending on your electrical system, you might prefer the 5/7 blade set. The only time I can ever remember my fans going on high, is when sitting in traffic in hot weather. That's also when your alternator is producing the fewest amount of amps to recharge. You can test your idle amps, or if it was supplied to you, this might help in your decision on which fans you get.


(If anyone is planning on this, LKQ just put up a bunch of both low mileage sets for $80 shipped).
Old 01-06-2021, 01:28 PM
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That's why you should do the 145 amp alt if you go to electric fans
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Old 01-06-2021, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
That's why you should do the 145 amp alt if you go to electric fans
Or this....

Eagle High Fits 253 AMP High Output Alternator


from

Amazon Amazon

I did that alternator when I did my last '03... She's a beast !
Old 03-03-2021, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottyBoy
This is a step by step tutorial on how to upgrade any 99-02 GMT800 truck or SUV to the 05-06 GMT800 electric cooling fans. This same setup can be used on 03-04 trucks as well, however the only difference is the wiring that connects to the PCM.

Attachment 143927
Here is a wiring diagram of how the fans are factory wired on the 05-06 GM trucks.
Attachment 143930
If you have an 03-04 truck, then you will wire it exactly like this diagram shows. But on a 99-02, the PCM only has pin 42 available to use. The other trigger wire has to be connected to the AC compressor clutch relay wire. That wire is positive, so by me using an OEM harness, I had to add a relay to that wire to change it to a negative in order to trigger the fan relay pack, which is set up to be triggered by negative signals from the PCM. Now onto the wiring. First you want to remove your underhood fuse panel cover. Not just the lid, the entire cover. You will have to unbolt the corner fender brace in order to get it up and off. Now lift up the fuse junction block to get access to the underside. You will need to splice into the dark green AC clutch relay wire. This is the wire you need.

This is where you will tie in your relay.
The relay needs to be wired as follows:
86-Green AC wire
85-Ground
87-Ground
30-Blue trigger wire on OEM fan relay pack

And here is how your relay should look.

Now take the green wire on your relay and splice it into the factory Green AC wire with solder and heat shrink tubing.

I grounded the ground wire to this bolt on the fender, right below the fuse block.
just wanted to make sure understand this part properly and I have this all this correct .

the dark green wired off the fan junction relay block is going to c1 pin 42 pcm and the light blue wire is going into a relay that’ switches the 12v + ac clutch signal to applied a ground for the ac fan or fan 2 to energize?
Old 05-20-2022, 07:37 PM
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This might help someone.

If you are pulling the factory harness yourself, besides the harness, you also want:
The grounding bolt (duh), for the factory harness ground point below the middle of the fans.
The 2 pin connector the harness is plugged into, and some of that wire length. Its cleaner.
A 2nd set of mounting bolts. The 28" radiator, 34" radiator, and efans, all use the same mounting bolts (with the giant washers for the isolators). When you swap to efans , you need two sets, you already have one.
FYI, I have found a few sets of these at my pick n pull, just on the ground. If you don't know what one looks like, go pull it out of yours to see, and put it back. At my place I can't find em in the vehicles, but I have an extra set or two, that I just picked up. They are easy to spot when you know what to look for. Those large washers are only needed for those mounting isolators.
The fuse block plastic cover is different on the 05+. It has an additional, smaller, removable cover over top of the fan relay block (just like the original fuse cover). Part # 15215145. It will fit without it. You don't NEED it, but if you can get the factory part, why not?

I would also suggest if you do pull it; the factory harness is wrapped with the headlight harness, (UNLESS I'M MISTAKEN. I'M THINKING OF THE GREEN FUSE BLOCK). Just take that too. You probably won't pay any more for it, but it is some nice length of factory colored wire, with the factory fuse block connectors already installed. They are probably long enough to run the other way into the cab, and either extend all the way, or cut out what is needed. I see people say to take that off, and separate it, but why? If you're someone who has some backup parts, that's a good free one.
Old 05-26-2022, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottyBoy
My fans have been wired like this for well over a year now and I've had absolutely zero issues.

Hello, I know that this is an old post but I would like to know if there is anyone out there that can help me with this part. I have an 2002 Silverado and using the 05 factory e fan harness. I just need help on figuring out where to plug in the green and blue wires from harness.
Old 05-26-2022, 02:48 AM
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Hello, I know this an old post but I would like to know if there is anyone out there that can help me with this part. I have an 2002 Silverado and using the 05 factory e fan harness. I just need help on figuring out where to plug in the green and blue wires from harness.


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