Can I Swiss cheese my hitch receiver?
#1
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13,870
Likes: 4
From: Here and sometimes there too.
Can I Swiss cheese my hitch receiver?
Not sure if anyone is familiar or has used an "Anti-wobble" device for hitch mounted items but I installed one on my hitch and wasn't really satisfied with it's function so I made some improvements.
Here is what I'm talking about...
It's meant to lock or secure a hitch tube into the receiver preventing any wobbling or excess movement from happening. It's not very usefull when using a ball hitch to tow a trailer since the majority of the load is linear from the weight of the trailer being pulled. But when using a hitch meant to support a cargo rack or a motorcycle carrier the linear load is not there hence the anti-wobble device.
So anyways, Here's what it looks like instealled...
And with the hitch tube installed...
Problem is, it feels cheap to me and I can easily see the bolts walking themselves out without some lockwashers and if I overtighten it I can easily see myself stripping the threads since the thickness of the tube is so thin. So I decided to drill some holes in 4 of the 8 bolt holes in the tube...
Then I threaded the bolts through into the tube...
So far drilling holes into the reciever tube through the smaller 2" end of the anti-wobble device it seems to do the trick, there is very little wobble with the tube in the reciever now. I kinda want to do the same thing to the bigger 3" end of the anti-wobble device and drill some holes into the reciever hitch but...not sure if that's such a good idea since I use that receiver hitch to tow 10,000-15,000lbs.
Kinda curious as to what some of the metal junkies and frame guys think.
Here is what I'm talking about...
It's meant to lock or secure a hitch tube into the receiver preventing any wobbling or excess movement from happening. It's not very usefull when using a ball hitch to tow a trailer since the majority of the load is linear from the weight of the trailer being pulled. But when using a hitch meant to support a cargo rack or a motorcycle carrier the linear load is not there hence the anti-wobble device.
So anyways, Here's what it looks like instealled...
And with the hitch tube installed...
Problem is, it feels cheap to me and I can easily see the bolts walking themselves out without some lockwashers and if I overtighten it I can easily see myself stripping the threads since the thickness of the tube is so thin. So I decided to drill some holes in 4 of the 8 bolt holes in the tube...
Then I threaded the bolts through into the tube...
So far drilling holes into the reciever tube through the smaller 2" end of the anti-wobble device it seems to do the trick, there is very little wobble with the tube in the reciever now. I kinda want to do the same thing to the bigger 3" end of the anti-wobble device and drill some holes into the reciever hitch but...not sure if that's such a good idea since I use that receiver hitch to tow 10,000-15,000lbs.
Kinda curious as to what some of the metal junkies and frame guys think.
#3
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13,870
Likes: 4
From: Here and sometimes there too.
I have the same gut feeling which is why I thought I'd ask you smarter people first. I thought about going all custm2500 on my hitch but then I remembered I didn't want to kill people today...or tomorrow.
Trending Topics
#9
Personally I would do away with the anti wobble device.
Remove the hitch, drill/tap holes 1/2 the distance to from the end to the cross pin (4 holes total, one on each flat) Then weld a nut over each threaded hole. Then use jam nuts on the bolts like you already have.
There will be a quarter of the amount of hardware to keep tight and will be much more discreet.
1/2"-13 grade 8 nuts/bolts would be my hardware of choice.
Remove the hitch, drill/tap holes 1/2 the distance to from the end to the cross pin (4 holes total, one on each flat) Then weld a nut over each threaded hole. Then use jam nuts on the bolts like you already have.
There will be a quarter of the amount of hardware to keep tight and will be much more discreet.
1/2"-13 grade 8 nuts/bolts would be my hardware of choice.
#10
Not sure how much I like the idea of drilling 4 holes where all the weight is held. I know what you are talking about with it making tons of noise. The few class 5s I have seen are much tighter then your typical class 3. If they are all tight like the ones I have seen that would be a great option. You can upgrade the reciver like a few have done recently and get rid of the slop all in one.
I think I would look at other options before drilling 4 holes into the reciver.
I think I would look at other options before drilling 4 holes into the reciver.