Kinda goin backwards?
#11
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Don't do a body lift!!! You will hate yourself after you do it. After some time your truck will sound like the entire cab is going to fall off. And besides yes you can get a body lift cheaper than any suspension lift out there, but then you have to buy longer linkages and splice in wire sections to make sure everything from inside the body (ie: cab, fenders, hood) to the frame (ie: frame, fuel tank, axles) will still connect. Think about it, how many connections are there between the "body" and the "chassis" on your truck. Not only electrical, but brake lines, fuel lines, fuel fill neck, axle/tranny vent tubes. Not to mention you will then have to lower your radiator to make the shroud fit around the fan. (unless you have e fans) There is a lot more than just putting 3" bigger pucks under the body. You will then have to worry about body weakening at those points. The body does and does not sit on the frame, you add 3" and the body is only going to be sitting on those 4 points.
I would spend the extra 200 bucks and get a good set of spindles and lift springs for the front and then either an AAL or lift block in the rear just for leveling purposes.
I think you would be much happier with the suspension lift.
Don't 2wd 2500 springs in the front give you guys about 2" or so of lift on the 1500's???
Laters.
I would spend the extra 200 bucks and get a good set of spindles and lift springs for the front and then either an AAL or lift block in the rear just for leveling purposes.
I think you would be much happier with the suspension lift.
Don't 2wd 2500 springs in the front give you guys about 2" or so of lift on the 1500's???
Laters.
honestly have you ever done a body lift? you make it sounds like a total nightmare and hard to do, my mom could do a body lift on a truck, I got a body lift and I couldnt be happier for what I spent on it, nothing wrong with a body lift man, despite what this guy says. Also there is no 2500 springs, all 2500 use torsion bar suspesion
#12
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but then you have to buy longer linkages and splice in wire sections to make sure everything from inside the body (ie: cab, fenders, hood) to the frame (ie: frame, fuel tank, axles) will still connect. Think about it, how many connections are there between the "body" and the "chassis" on your truck. Not only electrical, but brake lines, fuel lines, fuel fill neck, axle/tranny vent tubes. Not to mention you will then have to lower your radiator to make the shroud fit around the fan. (unless you have e fans) There is a lot more than just putting 3" bigger pucks under the body.
ive done a BL on my old truck and taken it off... and it is now infact on ChevyCowboys truck. anyways the total time it took me and my dad to take the BL off and return it to stock when we did it was probably a total of 5 hours. you dont need any special tools or anything like that. if a BL is truly what you want you will be given EVERYTHING you need in the box to complete the body lift (aside from things like gap guards which are for show more or less. some BLs dont come with the rear bumper relocation kit... they are not much more though). a BL is quite simple to do... the hardest part i found was relocating the linkage just cause it was hard to get your hand in the trans tunnel (which they did provide you with the brackets for)the radiator will need dropped 3" but that is about a 1/2 job and once again... brackets will be included. do not worry about wiring and **** like that, it is all long enough, i did NOT splice ONE wire. all your brake lines and fuel lines are all long enough. if a BL is all you can afford go for it, youll be provided everything you need in the kit... trust me ive done about 3 of them already and one i actually removed and put back to stock
#13
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first things first... lets not post tech information when we dont know what we are talking about
ive done a BL on my old truck and taken it off... and it is now infact on ChevyCowboys truck. anyways the total time it took me and my dad to take the BL off and return it to stock when we did it was probably a total of 5 hours. you dont need any special tools or anything like that. if a BL is truly what you want you will be given EVERYTHING you need in the box to complete the body lift (aside from things like gap guards which are for show more or less. some BLs dont come with the rear bumper relocation kit... they are not much more though). a BL is quite simple to do... the hardest part i found was relocating the linkage just cause it was hard to get your hand in the trans tunnel (which they did provide you with the brackets for)the radiator will need dropped 3" but that is about a 1/2 job and once again... brackets will be included. do not worry about wiring and **** like that, it is all long enough, i did NOT splice ONE wire. all your brake lines and fuel lines are all long enough. if a BL is all you can afford go for it, youll be provided everything you need in the kit... trust me ive done about 3 of them already and one i actually removed and put back to stock
ive done a BL on my old truck and taken it off... and it is now infact on ChevyCowboys truck. anyways the total time it took me and my dad to take the BL off and return it to stock when we did it was probably a total of 5 hours. you dont need any special tools or anything like that. if a BL is truly what you want you will be given EVERYTHING you need in the box to complete the body lift (aside from things like gap guards which are for show more or less. some BLs dont come with the rear bumper relocation kit... they are not much more though). a BL is quite simple to do... the hardest part i found was relocating the linkage just cause it was hard to get your hand in the trans tunnel (which they did provide you with the brackets for)the radiator will need dropped 3" but that is about a 1/2 job and once again... brackets will be included. do not worry about wiring and **** like that, it is all long enough, i did NOT splice ONE wire. all your brake lines and fuel lines are all long enough. if a BL is all you can afford go for it, youll be provided everything you need in the kit... trust me ive done about 3 of them already and one i actually removed and put back to stock
#14
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no prob Beast if thats what your going for youve made the right choice. make sure for upfront you use the 2500HD plastic inner fenders (they are 2" taller than your stockers cause the HD frame)... youll get a cleaner look than those gap guards that you piece over you stock inner fenders
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