2001si3rr@

iTrader: (1)

I have a 6 inch Pro comp drop bracket lift with the add a leaf and 4 inch block in the back, but I need a little more to completely clear my 35 12.5 R17's. In full turns the driverside tire will slightly rub the bottom of the inner fender were it meets the lower portion of the cab. I don't want to crank keys or a body lift, but was thinking more along the lines of aftermarket torsion keys and a little more block in the back. What do you guys think? Will my MX-6's work? Were to buy key ways and bigger blocks? Is new alignment needed?

Onetogofast

iTrader: (9)

I would add a 3 inch body lift and make it huge!!! A guy a know had the same prob with his 6 inch and 35's on 20's but he could only add a 2 inch so it would still fit in the garage but it was not rubbing after that. Cognito Motorsports makes a 12 inch IFS that would be insane.

ChevyTruck

iTrader: (39)

i had 33 on my truck with just torsion keys changed out and jacked up. now i have 35 with the keys and 3 inch body lift. so i would do thoes two. i was told that i could put 38 with a 6 inch lift kit, but 35 is good enough for me.
i got my keys at rhino linings for like 80 buck. im shure that you can go to any speed shop and they can get them for you.
with the keys an alignment will be needed. with a body lift it's not needed.
hope that helps.

2001si3rr@

iTrader: (1)

Not worried about the garage, just don't really like the look of a body lift. That 12 inch kit would be sweet, but I don't have that kind of money. I think the key ways is my best bet just wanted to see what you guys thought about them. I'm not sure about the drop kit and keys which is really why I asked. Will it mess up my driveline angles, are my MX-6's going to be long enough, stuff like that....

Chevy Cowboy

iTrader: (5)

just go to your ford dealer and get f150 torsion keys, there the same as any leveling kit keys just alot lot cheaper

2001si3rr@

iTrader: (1)

You happen to have a part number for those?

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

You guys do realize that there's no difference between cranking the torsion bars and swapping in "F150" torsion keys, right? All the aftermarket/F150 keys do is place the indexing hexagon in a different axis or, pattern if you will, so that when you re-tighten the torsion bar bolt to the factory location, the torsion bar itself is twisted further, thus giving lift. The only reason to swap in a different torsion bar key is if you have completely bottomed out that torsion key bolt and need to crank further, or are lowering the truck via loosening the torsion bars and don't want the bolt backed out all the way.

If you're going to touch the torsion bars, and haven't already, just crank them up 5 turns of your socket wrench and see where you sit. It would be the exact same thing if you swapped in "F150" keys. And remember, after you touch the torsion bars, you'll want to get the truck an alignment to save on those expensive tires.

2001si3rr@

iTrader: (1)

I didn't really think of it that way!!

I haven't cranked on my torsion bars at all. I still have about a 1/2 inch of threads on the driver side and prolly around 3/4 inch on the passenger side. I didn't crank on them because it rides so nice right now, and I've heard so many people say that after cranking their ride went to crap.

So even with the Ford keys the ride would be on the stiff side, since they are putting more load on the torsion bars?

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

Turning the torsion keys with the bolt 5 turns and installing the "F150" keys will do the same thing in the end. Only difference is the bolt wont be tightened any further with the "F150" keys. Both methods put similar loads on the torsion bar. You will experience a rough ride from your torsion crank if you go too far and get crazy with cranking on the bolt, so test it out in small increments. Put a small piece of masking tape on your fender for reference and measure from there to the top of your tire to measure initial height. Crank 5 turns of your socket and stop. Drive around a few miles and see if there's any more rubbing of the tires. If not, go back home to level ground and re-measure at the same masking tape location to see how much lift you gained. Should be about 1/2"-3/4" total. Usually my customers don't notice any ride quality changes with only 5 turns of the socket. We do this on a weekly basis when customers up-size to say, 295/75R16's or something in the 33-34" size on a stock height 1/2 ton.

Your Pro-Comp lift leveled out your truck's stance pretty well, so if after the torsion bar crank your front sits higher than the rear, look to a shackle flip and a smaller 2-2.5" lift block instead, which would net you about 1-2" of total lift compared to where you sit now.

And as always, after you're satisfied, get an alignment.

2001si3rr@

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good... I don't have any issues with rubbing while driving around, really just while in reverse and full turns either way. I need to check it out going forward and see if I get the same results.

What is a shackle flip and where would I get the parts to do it?