so it hits me, i want to lift the truck more
#22
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (24)
Unfortunately, there are a lot of jackasses in this thread giving bad advice.
Most kits are marketed as a 4", 6",etc and you can crank further.
For instance, the Rancho 4" kit can be cranked further. The fabtech lift only drops the full differential 4.5" and you can crank another 1.5-2" on top of that. The procomp lift is full 6" drop lift and you can crank on top of that(although not recommended).
With that said, do you realize how cheap it is to lift the back of our trucks? Granted if you go to new leaf springs that can get expensive, but you're talking about less than $100 to go as high as 6" higher over stock.
Getting new torsion keys is NOT doing it right. New keys are basically re-marketed Ford keys which are just indexed differently so you can crank more. In reality, buying new keys is actually worse for your suspension as you can run into more trouble with cranking.
Now with your NNBS silverado all this stuff gets thrown out. The new trucks don't have a torsion system so there is no "cranking"
Most kits are marketed as a 4", 6",etc and you can crank further.
For instance, the Rancho 4" kit can be cranked further. The fabtech lift only drops the full differential 4.5" and you can crank another 1.5-2" on top of that. The procomp lift is full 6" drop lift and you can crank on top of that(although not recommended).
With that said, do you realize how cheap it is to lift the back of our trucks? Granted if you go to new leaf springs that can get expensive, but you're talking about less than $100 to go as high as 6" higher over stock.
Getting new torsion keys is NOT doing it right. New keys are basically re-marketed Ford keys which are just indexed differently so you can crank more. In reality, buying new keys is actually worse for your suspension as you can run into more trouble with cranking.
Now with your NNBS silverado all this stuff gets thrown out. The new trucks don't have a torsion system so there is no "cranking"
#23
Um, stock torsions on a stock truck....If you crank them "all the way" you will raise the front of the truck higher than the back. And when you see a lift kit of any brand that says 4-6" or 6-8". That is what they mean. You get a kit that is either a 4 (for the 4-6) or a 6 (for the 6-8). Then they tell you if you want the extra two inches, you crank the hell out of the torsions and it raises only the front of the truck up. That being said, the 4-6" kit comes with 4" lift blocks in the rear. The 6-8" kit comes with 6" lift blocks in the rear. (If that is the type kit you get). Now, the kit stated is a "A-B" lift kit. A is the actuall "lift" the front and rear get, B is the additional 2" that the cranking gets you.
This is how it has been ever since the IFS came out in 1988. This is also on the 88-98 4x4's only. The 2wd's had coils in the front and no torsion bars.
I have not seen a Rancho lift kit offered for the 4x4 IFS Chevy that was listed as a 6" kit. It was either the 4" kit or the 4-6" kit.
What I meant by the additional in the rear was you get the Rancho 4" kit and install it. Then crank the torsions to give you the additional 2" in the front, then get a 6" lift block in the rear to level it out. 6" blocks give you some hell of a lot of axle wrap. That is why I would go with a "Deaver" leaf pack. The Deavers are designed to use no lift blocks and give you the 4 or 6" of lift in the rear of the truck. You can also get Deavers for a long travel setup in the rear also. I think the most you can get out of a set of Deaver long travel springs is 18" I think. But that is wheel travel not lift, the lift would be somewhere in the 4-6" area.
I thought I was making sense when I typed but I guess not. Hopefully I cleared my thoughts up. I hate this, I know what to say and how to say it, but typing it doesn't come out right.
This is how it has been ever since the IFS came out in 1988. This is also on the 88-98 4x4's only. The 2wd's had coils in the front and no torsion bars.
I have not seen a Rancho lift kit offered for the 4x4 IFS Chevy that was listed as a 6" kit. It was either the 4" kit or the 4-6" kit.
What I meant by the additional in the rear was you get the Rancho 4" kit and install it. Then crank the torsions to give you the additional 2" in the front, then get a 6" lift block in the rear to level it out. 6" blocks give you some hell of a lot of axle wrap. That is why I would go with a "Deaver" leaf pack. The Deavers are designed to use no lift blocks and give you the 4 or 6" of lift in the rear of the truck. You can also get Deavers for a long travel setup in the rear also. I think the most you can get out of a set of Deaver long travel springs is 18" I think. But that is wheel travel not lift, the lift would be somewhere in the 4-6" area.
I thought I was making sense when I typed but I guess not. Hopefully I cleared my thoughts up. I hate this, I know what to say and how to say it, but typing it doesn't come out right.
If you want good info on the GMT900(not NNBS) GMFullsize has quite a few members over there with lifted GMT900s. They were very helpful in making my decision
#24
Most kits are marketed as a 4", 6",etc and you can crank further.
For instance, the Rancho 4" kit can be cranked further. The fabtech lift only drops the full differential 4.5" and you can crank another 1.5-2" on top of that. The procomp lift is full 6" drop lift and you can crank on top of that(although not recommended).
For instance, the Rancho 4" kit can be cranked further. The fabtech lift only drops the full differential 4.5" and you can crank another 1.5-2" on top of that. The procomp lift is full 6" drop lift and you can crank on top of that(although not recommended).
And yah, there are quite a bit of ways to raise the rear of the truck. But I will take a new leaf pack over 6" blocks any day of the week. Reason being, lift blocks SUCK. You get more axle wrap, more vibrations, and poor performance from the rear of the truck. AND, there was a guy on here who was in a rear end collision and his lift blocks/u-bolts broke, and twisted the axle under the truck! You wouldn't get that with a new leaf pack.
And if anyone believes that my advice is bad. Then so be it, I was stating as Hero has, but I guess it looks as though I can't put it into words like he can, or maybe it is because he has more posts than I do. But what I was saying is pretty much what Hero just wrote here.
So let me apologize now that if anyone followed any advice I have given here and it turned up to be "bad". I AM SORRY!!!
One other small fact. Did you guys know the reason for the "nose down" look on todays IFS trucks? It is because all the manufacturers making the 1/2 ton trucks make the trucks with this stance. This is so when you put the max load in the bed of the truck, your headlights will not blind people when you are driving at night??
Got that little bit of info from a GM tech rep at a CORR race one year back in the 90's. And if you look at all STOCK 1/2 ton trucks they are ALL "nose down" from the factory, whether they are 2wd or 4wd.
#25
there was a guy on here who was in a rear end collision and his lift blocks/u-bolts broke, and twisted the axle under the truck! You wouldn't get that with a new leaf pack.
I will agree on you on most of your last comment. But on this I must say you are wrong. I got hit when my truck was stock and it broke the stock u bolts and bent the springs. I don't like lift blocks thats for sure thats why I didn't put them in. Well the 5 in one anyway. And when i get more money I will put 4" springs in.
I will agree on you on most of your last comment. But on this I must say you are wrong. I got hit when my truck was stock and it broke the stock u bolts and bent the springs. I don't like lift blocks thats for sure thats why I didn't put them in. Well the 5 in one anyway. And when i get more money I will put 4" springs in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post