LiftedVictory

iTrader: (1)

in looking at all of the cost of parts, i can do all the labor my self and i am a great welder, i just dont have a lot of time, and money to do it all, what about a Independent swap, would i just need to get the torsion bar crossmember, bars, lower control arms, knuckles, t-case, diff, and axles? and would the shocks bolt up in the place that the stock 2wd ones were? I really want to go the easiest route. i wanted to get about 12 inches of lift and try to fit 40s but i may just do a 9-11" if i can do the independent for less.
BTW, thanks for all the info guys.

hmatiak

iTrader: (1)

If you can get a hp 60, sas would be the only way to go! IMO you will need the strength if you plan on running a tire that big. All in all, you might be cheaper going that route too. Oh and plan on spending 400 a tire for that size in a radial, at least. Like i said b4, wheels and tires will be what cost the most. IMO sas is the only way to go! BTW superlift makes a damn good from spring set. Its what i run on my crawler. 40's on a 6" spring,

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

12 inches of lift and 40s will not last . . . even if you just drive it on the street. You'll go through ball joints like crazy.

you can go a little cheaper and get a d44. The latest thing out that they're doing is a 609 axle. It's a 9" "chunk" and D60 outers and axles.

LiftedVictory

iTrader: (1)

I guess i could always get 2.5 ton rockwells...jk

Chevy Cowboy

iTrader: (5)

thats when he should upgrade to cognito upper control arms, with the hugeeee ball joints, and theres another upper conrtol arm from congnito with something more exspensive then a ball joint but I heard its insanely strong compared to it

hmatiak

iTrader: (1)

King pin 60, you run whatever tires you want. Any if its just a street truck (which would be gay as hell after all this work and with that much lift) then you can run a ball joint front end all you want as long as you run radial tires, and keep them balanced

Chevy Cowboy

iTrader: (5)

dana 60 is tough as hell but you also pay for it to, a 4wd lifted only used onroad is gay I agree, but then again look how many street queens are out there, why should this one happen to be different?

LiftedVictory

iTrader: (1)

so if i can get the axles, think i should go with d60s? ball joint or king pin
i can fab up all my own stuff, i just need to know what kind of brackets to make and where to mount them, or do i just need to go by trial and error?
and a divorced 205? who makes custom driveshafts in texas?
what about springs, if i want to run a 40" tire, i already have a body lift.
and a steering box and linkages, how much would i be looking at?
oh and did i miss anything, im sure i did, im just tired as hell.
Thanks guys.

Josh

black4x4

iTrader: (2)

for a 60 14b combo and forties look to be in the 10k range. doesn't realy matter as far as kingpin or balljiont eather will hold up fine, but the only factory axles with the 32" spring width witch is what you want come with kingpins. and for lift something like 4-5" will be enough with the bodylift as long as you plan stuff out. I run around 7"s total on 40s and don't rub.

Chevy Cowboy

iTrader: (5)

i totally disagree, kingpins are far far more durable. the kingpin axles also have some other differences in the shafts that make them alot stronger then the ones with balljoints