The neverending OVERHEATING issue...please help!
10-12-2005, 12:47 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by PappyDan
you pulled and rebuilt the motor after he ran it hot.
gauges jump when fliping switchs.
did you hook up all the ground straps in the right places?
gauges jump when fliping switchs.
did you hook up all the ground straps in the right places?
Dan
10-12-2005, 12:54 AM
#32
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go over it and make sure all the ground straps are where they should be.
and yes on some models like our trucks it matters where the ground strap is hooked up too.
before you spend any more money on any parts, go and get a cheap mech, temp gauge and see what the temp really is running down the road.
and yes on some models like our trucks it matters where the ground strap is hooked up too.
before you spend any more money on any parts, go and get a cheap mech, temp gauge and see what the temp really is running down the road.
Last edited by PappyDan; 10-12-2005 at 12:59 AM.
10-12-2005, 12:57 AM
#33
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Do you have another sending unit laying around? I would check all the grounds first, the sending units would be the next thing. You may just have some bad guages. My old Sonoma used to do that ****. Jump all the way into the red, CEL would come on, it'd sit there for a sec, then drop all the way to zero, then back to normal. Never once did I find the actual cause of the problem there. I just know it never overheated. Good luck.
10-12-2005, 10:40 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by 203Cree
Do you have another sending unit laying around? I would check all the grounds first, the sending units would be the next thing. You may just have some bad guages. My old Sonoma used to do that ****. Jump all the way into the red, CEL would come on, it'd sit there for a sec, then drop all the way to zero, then back to normal. Never once did I find the actual cause of the problem there. I just know it never overheated. Good luck.
Originally Posted by PappyDan
go over it and make sure all the ground straps are where they should be.
and yes on some models like our trucks it matters where the ground strap is hooked up too.
before you spend any more money on any parts, go and get a cheap mech, temp gauge and see what the temp really is running down the road.
and yes on some models like our trucks it matters where the ground strap is hooked up too.
before you spend any more money on any parts, go and get a cheap mech, temp gauge and see what the temp really is running down the road.
Thanks guys
Dan
10-12-2005, 06:43 PM
#35
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Scanner hookup update
Scanner hook-up UPDATE:
So i brought the van up to work today to hook up the scanner and go for a run from there.
So i drove up to work thru traffic, about 5 miles and parked the van and let it run. It ran for about 5 minutes while i went and got the scanner, after hooking up it read 194-195 for temperature, perfect.
So i started moving and it slowly made its way up gradually to about 201-203 after a few miles, thats only expected. So now on a busy street for a lil bit before the highway and it made its way up to about 212-213. Got onto the highway and watched carefully.
After a minute or two it went to about 219, sat there for a mile or two and then started to flicker between 219-221, until finally stopping on 221 and spending the next few miles there. then flickering 223, then solid, then 225, solid, 227, solid. Oh boy. I decided i was going to get off and turn around, and see what happens. Right before i got off the highway it pegs 231 and im not happy. Current speed was at 67mph and timing was at 32 degrees according to the scanner.
So off the highway with the heat on, temp drops to about 226 and stays there till making my way back on the highway. With the heat full blast, i pulled the temp back down to about 219 in a relative hurry, it holds between 217-221 with the heat on. So at this point im eliminating getting air in the system (ie cracked head gasket, cracked head ect). So then i shut the heat off, temp goes back to about 226, then a mile or two, then 228 another mile and back to 230. Damnit, i decide to turn the heat on and watch it again. Within just a few miles, the temp now drops to about 215-217, which as far as i would think, would be normal without heat on.
I get off the highway with the temps at about 220, turn the heat on and help it cool. Now on regular street driving again it slowly creeps back up, not above 223, but higher than 212 like it did before. Heat on full charge, temps drop to 199 before parking it again, now this is weird: after parking and letting it run a few minutes it warmed back to about 210. So basically after a highway trip it wont keep itself cool at a stop like it did before.
Ok guys, i tried to explain that as well as possible. Please if u have any insight please help, im at a total loss here.
Any questions to help let me know please.
Dan
So i brought the van up to work today to hook up the scanner and go for a run from there.
So i drove up to work thru traffic, about 5 miles and parked the van and let it run. It ran for about 5 minutes while i went and got the scanner, after hooking up it read 194-195 for temperature, perfect.
So i started moving and it slowly made its way up gradually to about 201-203 after a few miles, thats only expected. So now on a busy street for a lil bit before the highway and it made its way up to about 212-213. Got onto the highway and watched carefully.
After a minute or two it went to about 219, sat there for a mile or two and then started to flicker between 219-221, until finally stopping on 221 and spending the next few miles there. then flickering 223, then solid, then 225, solid, 227, solid. Oh boy. I decided i was going to get off and turn around, and see what happens. Right before i got off the highway it pegs 231 and im not happy. Current speed was at 67mph and timing was at 32 degrees according to the scanner.
So off the highway with the heat on, temp drops to about 226 and stays there till making my way back on the highway. With the heat full blast, i pulled the temp back down to about 219 in a relative hurry, it holds between 217-221 with the heat on. So at this point im eliminating getting air in the system (ie cracked head gasket, cracked head ect). So then i shut the heat off, temp goes back to about 226, then a mile or two, then 228 another mile and back to 230. Damnit, i decide to turn the heat on and watch it again. Within just a few miles, the temp now drops to about 215-217, which as far as i would think, would be normal without heat on.
I get off the highway with the temps at about 220, turn the heat on and help it cool. Now on regular street driving again it slowly creeps back up, not above 223, but higher than 212 like it did before. Heat on full charge, temps drop to 199 before parking it again, now this is weird: after parking and letting it run a few minutes it warmed back to about 210. So basically after a highway trip it wont keep itself cool at a stop like it did before.
Ok guys, i tried to explain that as well as possible. Please if u have any insight please help, im at a total loss here.
Any questions to help let me know please.
Dan
10-13-2005, 12:26 AM
#36
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bad thermostat
lower radiator hose being sucked closed
bad air flow through radiator.
bad water flow through radiator.
take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop and have it rodded out, this cost under a hundred and when he is done it will be like new again.
replace the lower hose, you stated the spring is already gone inside it.
thermostats are cheap, you can buy a bad one off the shelf.
lower radiator hose being sucked closed
bad air flow through radiator.
bad water flow through radiator.
take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop and have it rodded out, this cost under a hundred and when he is done it will be like new again.
replace the lower hose, you stated the spring is already gone inside it.
thermostats are cheap, you can buy a bad one off the shelf.
10-13-2005, 08:53 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by PappyDan
bad thermostat
lower radiator hose being sucked closed
bad air flow through radiator.
bad water flow through radiator.
take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop and have it rodded out, this cost under a hundred and when he is done it will be like new again.
replace the lower hose, you stated the spring is already gone inside it.
thermostats are cheap, you can buy a bad one off the shelf.
lower radiator hose being sucked closed
bad air flow through radiator.
bad water flow through radiator.
take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop and have it rodded out, this cost under a hundred and when he is done it will be like new again.
replace the lower hose, you stated the spring is already gone inside it.
thermostats are cheap, you can buy a bad one off the shelf.
I did pull the thermostat last night to test it, threw it in some water and let it boil, i took some pics to show u guys to let me know if it looks all the way open to you...
BTW-the lower radiator hose was replaced two days ago with a brand new one from Ford, with the spring.
EDIT, nevermind, my picture host site isnt supported here...
Last edited by ChillOutWayne; 10-13-2005 at 09:45 AM.
10-13-2005, 02:11 PM
#38
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try following this link to see the thermostat...
http://nloc.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107494
http://nloc.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107494
10-13-2005, 08:00 PM
#39
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Ok after purchasing and boiling the old thermostat with the new one, i find that they are the exact same, super duper. So im going to pull the radiator AGAIN tonight and have it flow tested/rotted out tomorrow just to make sure. I already flushed it out and it seemed to have good flow, but at this point ill try anything.
Dan
Dan
10-13-2005, 11:15 PM
#40
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you can flush it all you want, if the cores in the radiator is clogged from minerals in the water flushing it will not help.
after the radiator shop is done, you should have full cooling ability back
after the radiator shop is done, you should have full cooling ability back